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Old 04-12-2015, 06:36 AM   #1
5 speed OP
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Location: Orlando Florida
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Potential Start of Water Pump Failure, how fast does it go?

Right now I can see the water level in the reservoir going down say 1/4 of inch or so every ride. Started two rides ago. From those who have experienced the failure, does it start weeping like this and progress slowly, or does it just go completely and create a crankcase milkshake? I have an upcoming 4 day trip and trying to judge if this is a slow progressing situation (and not sure if say its just the rad cap needing replacement or if its truly a start of a failure) Its an 05 and I have like 19K miles on the Odo. If its time for open heart surgery, well the timing is not good lets just say. I had just changed the oil and found no water in it so this is a very new occurance. I do have a Scotts filter. What say those that have experienced this??? Would hate to see it just with this slow disappearance of coolant only to find my first 300 mile day it completely gone out.
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Old 04-12-2015, 08:07 AM   #2
Qwik
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Toss a paper filter in it for a bit. If it wrinkles up, you know that's your issue.
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Old 04-12-2015, 11:58 AM   #3
5 speed OP
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boy would hate to do that one seems like just asking for trouble. Can anyone tell me there experience regarding the pump seal going out, all at once or a slow process?
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Old 04-12-2015, 12:49 PM   #4
Qwik
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Mine went slow. A friend of mine had his go really fast. So it can go either way. It's about an hour and a half job to do.
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Old 04-12-2015, 03:14 PM   #5
speedy 1
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all day job for me

completely stock 07 with 32,000 on the clock
pump gave ample warning before complete failure
fix yours ASAP
the header from the front cylinder was in the way for removing the water pump cover
header would not slip out without removing the rear sub frame and moving the rear cans back.
get the graphite rings for exhaust connections as they are easy to damage
in my case the seal probably could have been reused ... the shaft, had a deep wear grove ... the steel shaft was softer then the seal ... weird
I had a stock pump kit on hand but had I known what the wear problem was I would have bought the CJ Designs kit instead as they claim the shaft is harder then stock
look for the tutorial in the WOF
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...50#post3738750
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Old 04-12-2015, 05:16 PM   #6
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hour and half job eh? Highly doubt it. Just draining the tanks and removing starts eating into a good part of the hour. Speedy I hear you, these are some of things that make me cringe about starting the disassembly. Plus If i tear it down, I need to buy and replace the hoses; mainly because I live in Florida and anything that is rubber dry rots so you can bet they may look OK but dryrot has been working its magic. Taking the header off, subframe, clearly its a fairly large project. I need to replace my choke cable so figured that would occur during teardown as well. I looked at the reservoir today and its at the halfway mark, so it seems the cap still is keeping things pressurized but a new cap is in order as well.

I do in fact have a CJ designs water pump kit on the shelf; as I approached 17K on the ODO and had a bit of cash I figured I might need to invest; the problem I have is time to get it done and know telling what I will be getting into once I disassemble as I found that doing things for the first time usually leads to problems and sometimes redoing things.

If I leave on the trip without the repair, I realize its a gamble too; headed to the NC mountains from Florida; however I am trailering it up to Georgia and leaving my truck; I guess if it drains the overlflow tank and I see water in the oil then I ring AAA to haul me and bike down to GA and pay the extra transport beyond their standard range.

Hmn.......
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Old 04-12-2015, 05:56 PM   #7
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Thanks for posting the link to Pyns post, boy it sure looks easy when he does it!!!! Course I already know it wont go that way for me, removing bearing on top of bearings, heat this, freeze that. Yea. I guess when you have the clutch exposed then its time to review what thats up to as well. So, as an example that creeping and grabbiness, seems to recall a clutch basket issue with the old bikes..... I already have replaced the slave with an Oberon so.....

I dont know why I am hesitating on this besides the fact that I am buried in work (which I need to go back to now). I am considering rolling the dice.... 4 days at about 300 miles a day.....
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Old 04-12-2015, 07:04 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedy 1 View Post
completely stock 07 with 32,000 on the clock
pump gave ample warning before complete failure
fix yours ASAP
the header from the front cylinder was in the way for removing the water pump cover
header would not slip out without removing the rear sub frame and moving the rear cans back.
get the graphite rings for exhaust connections as they are easy to damage
in my case the seal probably could have been reused ... the shaft, had a deep wear grove ... the steel shaft was softer then the seal ... weird
I had a stock pump kit on hand but had I known what the wear problem was I would have bought the CJ Designs kit instead as they claim the shaft is harder then stock
look for the tutorial in the WOF
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...50#post3738750
Trick is to remove the header pipe heat shield and O2 sensor (if you have one). Then you can get the header out by pulling forward and rolling it outwards.
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Old 04-12-2015, 07:51 PM   #9
speedy 1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoran View Post
Trick is to remove the header pipe heat shield and O2 sensor (if you have one). Then you can get the header out by pulling forward and rolling it outwards.

OK ... I'll back track a bit.
It was possible to force the header out as you have described.
It was completely impossible to reinstall without removing the rear sub-frame.

your results may vary
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Old 04-12-2015, 09:37 PM   #10
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Not sure why it may have been different on your bike but had no problems taking my header off or putting it back on without touching the subframe.
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Old 04-12-2015, 09:56 PM   #11
srad600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5 speed View Post
I dont know why I am hesitating on this besides the fact that I am buried in work (which I need to go back to now). I am considering rolling the dice.... 4 days at about 300 miles a day.....
I'd say reconsider this. I've had mine go out a few times, two were gradual one was catastrophic. Literally the bike went from normal coolant level to all coolant dumping into the motor and dash lights flashing at me in the space of about 5 minutes. If you know the seal/shaft are bad, it's not worth the risk IMO.

Personally, I've never had to remove my subframe to do the job. I have had to remove my exhaust pipes, in order to take the header off easier.

If you're worried about timing, you could always tear it down and take the case to your dealer and have them swap out the bearings/shaft/seal for you. Assuming you have a good dealer nearby, that may make things easier (although it's always best to do it yourself).
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Old 04-13-2015, 06:37 AM   #12
5 speed OP
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Srad600 I am afraid I have come to the same conclusion, I must do it because you are right, dont know where the fluid is going but this is not normal, it never goes down, ever in the 5 years ive ownd it so clearly its not right. And good point on replacing the bearings if I cant manage it on my own though will give it a try. Might as well face the facts that it has to be done and get on with it!!!
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Old 04-13-2015, 03:57 PM   #13
Lupin 3rd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5 speed View Post
Might as well face the facts that it has to be done and get on with it!!!
There you go.

Here's a little more motivation: "Oil Starvation", "Seized Engine", "Boat Anchor"...

Might not happen, but is it worth finding out?
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Old 04-13-2015, 09:53 PM   #14
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Lets us know how it turns out (and don't forget the ride report).
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Old 04-14-2015, 06:25 PM   #15
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Took me the better part of a day. Rear sub frame wasn't removed. I used Lyndon's how to. I was intimidated at the time but it was a piece of cake.
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