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Old 04-18-2013, 03:22 PM   #16
Mr Head
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I have been using 20W50 GTX since the early 70's. I found then I could find it at some Safeway stores.
since my aging beast past 120,000 miles I started using the "high Mileage" version just because I could and it was there on the shelf at the Pep Boys.
I'll have to look at what they have this next time. It has been a couple of months since I was last in.
I stopped using BMW oil,(Spectrol, or some such we used to buy by the 55 gal drum back in the 70's at the shop.) when they change the cap size. The new version no longer mates to my filler neck.
I've also run my bike 10,000 miles between oil changes but only twice. Hasn't seemed to be an issue, but maybe in the next 100,000 miles I'll see something.

A friend's grand dad once said there are two enemies of machinery; Dirt and Stupidity. Keep 'em clean and don't be stupid and you got a good chance of running the thing well beyond the point of familiar and favored tool.

Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
20W50 is getting hard to find. If using synth then up to 10K miles you are still good.

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Old 04-18-2013, 03:40 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Iron Rey View Post
Kind of an aside, I was contemplating going to a KN cleanable filter
Why would you mess with success?
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Old 04-18-2013, 03:43 PM   #18
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In my new GSA I switched to Castrol 15w40 HDEO for Diesel engines at the 600 mile oil change. Same as Shell Rotella T. It's available at all the truck stops. I have done over 2000 miles since , including a saddle sore 1000 and I have zero oil
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Old 04-18-2013, 04:19 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by TuefelHunden View Post
Not trying to start a fracas and the article of which you speak was an OK piece of journalism, but there was nothing in it or just about any other one out there that makes one oil significantly better than another. That is as long as they are in the ball park with the manufacturer's spec. As long as you are running a bike with a dry clutch, and separate transmission and crank oil, you can mix and match without a problem. The tea kettle should require a bit of care before adding oil. looked like what they measured was ok in all the samples. But, a couple stood out from the rest with a high mark in all areas. And a couple stood out with lower marks in some areas...even though we know the engine probably won't know the difference. Choosing the best one allows me to focus on something else...the ride maybe :)
My other bike is a BMW
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Old 04-19-2013, 08:37 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by cjack View Post
The Mobil 1 20W50 V-Twin showed very well in those MOA oil tests. It seems to be available at most stores around here in IL.
They carry this at my local Wal-Mart. It is what I use. O'Rieley (sp?) Auto Parts had it on sale last time I was there.
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Old 04-19-2013, 06:26 PM   #21
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I steer clear of the infamous "oil threads", and have just gone with the assumption that all new motor oil of the same viscosity works equally well and that differences in quality come to light only after its been in there a while. So I buy whatever at Wal-mart and change it often. All my vehicles have pretty high mileage and all run just fine. So, given that you are on the road, just put in what you can get your hands on, and when you get home it'll probably be time for another oil change anyways...
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Old 04-20-2013, 07:35 AM   #22
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Thanks for all the help.
I bought some Castrol 10-40 and all is fine!
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Old 04-20-2013, 01:12 PM   #23
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I have heard Helge Pedersen say that he puts oil in his bikes when he travels. I think his lack of specificity speaks volumes. That was a while ago though I think he was riding something other than a GSA then

whoa, dude...
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Old 04-29-2013, 02:25 PM   #24
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Can't Find it

Originally Posted by cjack View Post
The Mobil 1 20W50 V-Twin showed very well in those MOA oil tests. It seems to be available at most stores around here in IL.
I've always used 20 W 50 but can't find it anymore. Switched to 15 W 50, and I'm even finding that hard to find.
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Old 04-29-2013, 02:40 PM   #25
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Oil Change

Originally Posted by cjack View Post
The Mobil 1 20W50 V-Twin showed very well in those MOA oil tests. It seems to be available at most stores around here in IL.
I understand and have been using Mobil 1 20W50 V-Twin synthetic for years and it is truly awesome. I buy it at Advance Auto Parts which is where I can always find it locally since I live in Illinois. I also agree with Jim Von Baden because I change the oil at 10,000 miles since the Mobil 1 synthetic is so high quality.
Now thinking about changing my joking UserID to 100 Hour Butt since I've lost 160 pounds and no more pain in the butt any more. . .
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Old 04-29-2013, 06:20 PM   #26
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I needed some oil while on a road trip and was surprised to find at a Shell station a good variety of quarts from both them and others - including Chevron. Even more surprising were the number of oils on the shelf that said 'motorcycle oil' right on the label. Guess maybe it's because that's who would typically buy a quart of oil at a gas station out in the middle of nowhere??

Anyway, having been a longtime HD guy I've read a few of the dreaded oil threads over the years and one comment someone made that stuck had to do with the so-called 'additive packages' that are engineered for specific uses. One of the threads quoted Bob The Oil Guy (, and his riff on shear strength. The overall thought was that the HD MoCo had their OEM oil custom blended to run in high torque, low rpm, big displacement v-twins (you know, like a Harley engine?); and a key aspect of the way those engines treat oil has all to do with shear strength. After reading Bob the Oil Guy's stuff, and giving it some thought, it sorta makes sense. But hey - who the heck knows. Not me...

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