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Old 04-18-2013, 12:13 PM   #1
akabeton OP
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Harmonizer

Is anybody using the "Harmonizer" on their airhead?

Not much info, other than a vendor thread and a couple of "YouTube" demos.

The vendor was at one point setting up a website, I tried a search with no result, even with the web address displayed on front of the device.

I have subscribed to the original thread. In the interim I thought I'd ask here too.

Thanks
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Old 04-18-2013, 12:23 PM   #2
BOETJE
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Yes,
.
Compared it to the Morgan Carbtune, and the Harmonizer is better.
Excellent tool in my honest opinion
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Old 04-18-2013, 12:41 PM   #3
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Yes. Bought one from the second production run (I think) and used it just once. It was super easy and my carbs were slightly out of balance before. Really nice tool to have.
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Old 04-18-2013, 01:48 PM   #4
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I have one also and think it's a great tool for my needs. I have used the merc stix for years but this is less of a problem to use.
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Old 04-18-2013, 02:52 PM   #5
Bill Harris
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Harmonizer

Got one. Used it today. Love it.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=701625

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Old 04-18-2013, 02:54 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akabeton View Post
Is anybody using the "Harmonizer" on their airhead?
/snip
Thanks
Not me. I've used mercry stic and a Walus differential meter. The Walus was super sensitive and accurate. Finally decided vacuum methods didn't work well and got rid of all the gear. I could just nail the vacuum but the motor wasn't very smooth.

Many prefer to use vacuum. Haven't met any claimed to be good doing it both ways and then still prefering vacuum. They may be out there.
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Old 04-18-2013, 03:23 PM   #7
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Just for fun I've been thinking about trying to set up a DIY "Harmonizer", as the original maker seems to be slow in producing them. There are several tutorials and schematics on creating a digital carb synchronization tool using vacuum gauges hooked up to an Arduino (electronic prototyping device).

Anyone know the useful psi range the vacuum gauges would need to measure for our Airheads? I may just order a few from digikey.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Ardu...zation-Shield/
http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...ad.php?t=73158
http://youtu.be/HkCHG0MW7HA
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:59 PM   #8
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I recommend using a properly damped manometer. Inches of liquid is THE scientific standard. It's Mother Nature showing what is going on. Ports are balanced on flow benches with manometers. Why have an electronic contraption than mimics one? Portability? IF I need to adjust something on the road, I do it by ear. My ears have had a good teacher. You can't get any better teacher than a manometer.
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Old 04-19-2013, 12:12 AM   #9
Rob Farmer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brocktoon View Post
Just for fun I've been thinking about trying to set up a DIY "Harmonizer", as the original maker seems to be slow in producing them. There are several tutorials and schematics on creating a digital carb synchronization tool using vacuum gauges hooked up to an Arduino (electronic prototyping device).

Anyone know the useful psi range the vacuum gauges would need to measure for our Airheads? I may just order a few from digikey.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Ardu...zation-Shield/
http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...ad.php?t=73158
http://youtu.be/HkCHG0MW7HA
The arduinos are perfect for this. If you're only working on twins just buy a differential vacuum sensor instead of individual pressure sensors, you won't need to worry about calibration.
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Old 04-19-2013, 05:00 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
I recommend using a properly damped manometer. Inches of liquid is THE scientific standard.
I was trying to do the "plug shorting method" - a real PITA for me, couldn't seem to get it right - other's swear by it. Got out my old "carb sticks" (mercury manometer) and balanced carbs right on the money. I'd be willing to try the "harmonizer" as some think it is GREAT, but others (Tom Cutter) say don't waste your money - to each his own.
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Old 04-19-2013, 05:03 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Bill Harris View Post
Got one. Used it today. Love it.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=701625

--Bill
Send me your Harmonizer. Let me give it a try.
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Old 04-19-2013, 05:12 AM   #12
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If you're going to get creative with an Arduino, why stay in the past by measuring vacuum? It's only a surrogate for smooth operation; these days we can measure the crank speed itself to figure out if it's running smoothly. That's what the Hexheads do.

Set a HES so that it reads the flywheel teeth, and then program the Arduino to compare alternate rotations. You will see the power pulse show up as crank acceleration, and you want the same acceleration on successive rotations.
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Old 04-19-2013, 05:31 AM   #13
LoJack
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I like my Harmonizer, but have not used anything else other than the little spark plug extension rods I got from JTWind. I've not been at this as long as some of you guys, though.

No vacuum port on the slide carbs of my /5, which is why I got those carb sync rods.
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Old 04-19-2013, 05:50 AM   #14
Stan_R80/7
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FWIW, plug grounding synchronizing was something I learned from the internet and works well for me. My (homemade) spark plug grounding extensions are in my tool kit. Having used various synchronizers for SU, Stromberg, and Bing carburetors, I prefer the simplicity of plug grounding (and the results). However, having another carburetor synchronizing gadget is always appealing. Other than the extra intake disassembly and reassembly needed, I expect the harmonizer works fine.

Stan_R80/7 screwed with this post 04-19-2013 at 05:51 AM Reason: spelling
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Old 04-19-2013, 06:14 AM   #15
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoJack View Post
I like my Harmonizer, but have not used anything else other than the little spark plug extension rods I got from JTWind. I've not been at this as long as some of you guys, though.

No vacuum port on the slide carbs of my /5, which is why I got those carb sync rods.
I swear by 'em, and mine are just home made. The little ones go in the tool kit and the big fancy home made ones live in the shop. I was going to make a cross shorting box but the project got stalled by a move and I ended up doing something different in the end.

If you travel far I think you should at least know how to do it and be somewhat in practice. it's extremely portable, gives good results and doesn't take batteries.
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