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Old 04-19-2013, 02:41 PM   #1
clicheche OP
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Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
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1976 suzuki ds100

i have spark, and fuel is getting to it.

i cleaned the carb. are there any settings or adjustments to the carb that could not allow the sucker to fire up?

air flow is good as well.

kill switch is in the 'run' position.
there is no battery on the bike, but this shouldn't matter right?


any ideas?

update: plug was soaking wet. will this definitely halt it from firing up?
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clicheche screwed with this post 05-14-2013 at 08:12 PM Reason: year of bike needs to be corrected! its a '78
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Old 04-19-2013, 06:18 PM   #2
Andyinhilo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clicheche View Post
i have spark, and fuel is getting to it.

i cleaned the carb. are there any settings or adjustments to the carb that could not allow the sucker to fire up?

air flow is good as well.

kill switch is in the 'run' position.
there is no battery on the bike, but this shouldn't matter right?


any ideas?

update: plug was soaking wet. will this definitely halt it from firing up?
Wet plug will definitely keep it from starting. You need to find out why it is wet, too. Did you flood it, is the float needle working, etc.?
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Old 04-19-2013, 10:20 PM   #3
clicheche OP
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i believe the float needle is working. it moved when i played with the float upon taking apart and cleaning the carb.

so it never even had a gas tank when i bought it. not sure how many years its been since it was running. the carb was seized. i may have had the choke on and tried kicking it quite a few times before i ultimately tried roll starting it.

it puttered pretty good and almost sounded like it wanted to fire.
could the quality of spark be an issue?
i considered replacing the plug, but i saw spark when testing it, so figured it would be fine.

i'm gonna replace the plug and then try roll starting it tomorrow.
would the ignition coil, (for lack of a better term...maybe that's accurate) need to be replaced? due to lack of quality spark firing?

would taking the air filter off help, or matter?
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Old 04-20-2013, 04:40 AM   #4
FR700
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Clean/replace points.

Fresh plug , B8ES.

.
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Old 04-20-2013, 11:05 AM   #5
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What color is the spark ?
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Old 04-20-2013, 06:35 PM   #6
Andyinhilo
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NEW PLUG! The float needle may be free, but you need to be sure that it is actually shutting off the fuel. The seat and needle tip could be damaged and/or a a bit of trash could be there as well.
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Old 04-20-2013, 06:51 PM   #7
clicheche OP
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the new plug b8es sucks.

tiny little spark.

the old plug sparks better.

that being said, the spark color, (though much smaller) was more blue on the new plug, and orange on the old plug.

will consider the points suggestion.

is compression difficult to test?

could that be an issue?

will check the carb again as well. how to tell if the float needle would be stopping the gas flow?
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Old 04-20-2013, 06:52 PM   #8
clicheche OP
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what components of the carb deal with starting? pilot jet? float needle and jet?

anyone know where one can get their hands on a carburetor rebuild kit?
1976 suzuki ds100
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clicheche screwed with this post 04-20-2013 at 09:44 PM
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Old 04-20-2013, 10:01 PM   #9
Andyinhilo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clicheche View Post
the new plug b8es sucks.

tiny little spark.

the old plug sparks better.

that being said, the spark color, (though much smaller) was more blue on the new plug, and orange on the old plug.

will consider the points suggestion.

is compression difficult to test?

could that be an issue?

will check the carb again as well. how to tell if the float needle would be stopping the gas flow?
Blue spark is better than orange. Compression is easy to test if you have a gauge.

The easiest way to test the needle is to see if you can blow into the fuel inlet after the float bowl is full.

Starting fuel delivery is controlled by all the circuits, dependent on throttle setting. you also need to make sure that the enrichener is shutting off completely.
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Old 04-21-2013, 08:39 AM   #10
clicheche OP
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thanks all!

the enrichener? like the air/fuel screw? sorry, i don't have a manual for the bike/carb

(compression does seem simple enough to check. just need the gauge)

will give a blow into the inlet. what am i looking for? if i am able to blow into it?
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clicheche screwed with this post 04-22-2013 at 09:28 AM
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Old 04-21-2013, 11:29 AM   #11
clicheche OP
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new data:

float bowl was bone dry. could this be related to non-starting issue?
the float needle was extremely tight in the jet, had to pull it with pliers. it was gunged up, but not around the point of the needle. the needle looks to be in pretty fair shape. is the needle supposed to rest on an o ring in the seat? because there wasn't one there.

how could i have had a wet plug with a bone dry float bowl? (i had the choke engaged, and i kicked it many a time)

3 more!
is kerosene an acceptable safe cleaner for carbs?
is the foam air filter to be oiled like most on this bike?
could a leaking petcock be of issue? (in process of fixing it)

thanks for all the help everyone! immensely appreciated
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clicheche screwed with this post 04-21-2013 at 03:53 PM
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Old 04-22-2013, 12:13 PM   #12
Andyinhilo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clicheche View Post
new data:

float bowl was bone dry. could this be related to non-starting issue?

DUHHH!!

the float needle was extremely tight in the jet, had to pull it with pliers. it was gunged up, but not around the point of the needle. the needle looks to be in pretty fair shape. is the needle supposed to rest on an o ring in the seat? because there wasn't one there.

The needle rests on the seat itself, but there may be an o ring or some other type gasket where the seat presses or screws into the carb body.


how could i have had a wet plug with a bone dry float bowl? (i had the choke engaged, and i kicked it many a time)

That is not a "CHOKE" it is an enrichener. It won't work if the carb is dry.
You may have a bad crank seal leaking trans fluid into the crankcase, or fif you really kicked it that much, the oil injection may have sent enough oij to make the plug wet.


3 more!
is kerosene an acceptable safe cleaner for carbs?

It is reasonably safe, but not really a good enough solvent to be real effective.


is the foam air filter to be oiled like most on this bike?

Yes. Over oiling could contribute to wet fouling, too.


could a leaking petcock be of issue? (in process of fixing it)

If it leaks and the fuel gets past the float valve, the fuel will overflow and can fill the engine with fuel (not good).

thanks for all the help everyone! immensely appreciated
Good luck.
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Old 04-22-2013, 08:28 PM   #13
clicheche OP
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excellent help!

will update with some info once i reassemble etc.

the float needle being seized, could that have completely blocked fuel entering the bowl? i suppose that's the only and obvious reason...

super gracious.

measured excitement!
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Old 04-23-2013, 07:53 PM   #14
clicheche OP
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newer data:

i got the sucker running! for 20 seconds or so at incredibly high idle speed, smoking white smoke like hell and then it quit. (engine would rev even higher when i pulled some throttle, if that's worth anything)

this was after the carb finally got fuel to the bowl, and i adjusted the points so that the connection gap (unknown term) was shortened or made smaller than originally set. (the nut on the crankshaft was also quite loose.)

the plug had some oily spots, darker in color, but wasn't extremely wet.

the enrichener was not engaged, the air screw on the slide was screwed in quite far, (raising the slide) should it be screwed out more or less, as far as more or less air for idle?

concerning the idle speed, why would it not want to start when the points were gapped further?

i was ordering a new points plate and condensor... should i just replace this? could it be a bad condensor? or is my point adjustment to small?(concerning really fast idle)

ever grateful for the help folks, it wouldn't be running if it wasn't for you!
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clicheche screwed with this post 04-23-2013 at 10:06 PM
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Old 04-23-2013, 07:56 PM   #15
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i freaking owe you guys!
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