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Old 04-24-2013, 01:02 PM   #16
Andyinhilo
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Originally Posted by clicheche View Post
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i got the sucker running! for 20 seconds or so at incredibly high idle speed, smoking white smoke like hell and then it quit. (engine would rev even higher when i pulled some throttle, if that's worth anything)

After reading this post, I recommend that you back off on the idle speed screw that is lifting the slide, and make sure that the air screw is set at about one an one half turns. Try again.

It sounds as if it may be quite lean. An engine this old may need new crankshaft seals, also make sure that all the airbox and air filters are in place, if not it will be lean.


this was after the carb finally got fuel to the bowl, and i adjusted the points so that the connection gap (unknown term) was shortened or made smaller than originally set. (the nut on the crankshaft was also quite loose.)

Points gap is the term you are looking for. That gap sets the timing. When the points break or open is when the spark occurs. That should happen when the timing mark on the flywheel aligns with the corresponding mark on the crankcase. The flywheel retaining nut needs to be tight, or you could break the flywheel key. This will usually reselt in a no start condition.

the plug had some oily spots, darker in color, but wasn't extremely wet.

the enrichener was not engaged, the air screw on the slide was screwed in quite far, (raising the slide) should it be screwed out more or less, as far as more or less air for idle?

The air screw does not raise the slide, the idle speed (or throttle stop) screw does. The air screw is to adjust fuel mixture at low throttle settings. I am not sure where it is located on your particular carb. They are usually initially adjusted at 1-2 turns out from being LIGHTLY screwed all the way in. Screw in for less air (richer) and out for more air (leaner)

concerning the idle speed, why would it not want to start when the points were gapped further?

If too far open the ignition timing could be way off, and if open far enough not to make contact, no spark.


i was ordering a new points plate and condensor... should i just replace this? could it be a bad condensor? or is my point adjustment to small?(concerning really fast idle)

It certainly won't hurt to replace these bits, but you seem to have spark based on the above.

ever grateful for the help folks, it wouldn't be running if it wasn't for you!
Once again, good luck
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Old 04-24-2013, 04:10 PM   #17
clicheche OP
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it will run 'lightly' for about 5 seconds, light blue smoke, and then putter out. completely different from the intense revving and white smoke yesterday.

it appears its just tweaking carb... and seals wouldn't hurt i'm sure. winter job

lining up the points gap mark with the flywheel cover doesn't allow the bike to start.

will adjust the carb ( i know which screws you are talking about, thank you for clarity) and go from there. it seems close folks.
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:14 PM   #18
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it will start, and idle for a good half minute, but lightly. the second i pull any throttle it quits. it MUST be too rich right? i can't seem to adjust the carb properly.
yikes.

it seems 1 and a half turns out on the fuel/air screw is the best bet so far. i'm just wondering if its the timing.

could the condensor be worn out, and not sending a consistent, good spark? plug wire? like i said earlier, i have spark, but i can't tell if its of the quality and rate it should be. etc.

as for the screw on the float bowl, which screw is this? i know it deals with fuel/air, just not sure how. it has no spring to tension it in place if it is turned out much.

last pondering. could my float height be of issue? it seems when i lean the bike back a bit while on the stand it idles much better... could the bowl have too much fuel in it?
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Old 04-25-2013, 04:59 PM   #19
Andyinhilo
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Does it smoke heavily? Can you slowly open the throttle without it dying? Do you have to choke it to start? These would be the symptoms of running rich at this stage.

I don't know of any adjustment screws in/on the float bowl. Only thing I can think of there is the drain. The float level could be an issue as well.
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Old 04-25-2013, 06:45 PM   #20
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doesnt smoke heavily.

don't have to use choke to start it.

it was odd. ONE time it idled great, and i could pull throttle, making it rev well and strong. other than that, when i pull on throttle it dies.

i could potentially lower the height of the float?

ya, i believe the screw on the float bowl is the drain. it must be.

thanks!

ps: does this choke/enrichener block our air or fuel? i've heard some do one or the other
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clicheche screwed with this post 04-25-2013 at 09:42 PM
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:17 AM   #21
Andyinhilo
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Originally Posted by clicheche View Post
doesnt smoke heavily.

don't have to use choke to start it.

it was odd. ONE time it idled great, and i could pull throttle, making it rev well and strong. other than that, when i pull on throttle it dies.

i could potentially lower the height of the float?

ya, i believe the screw on the float bowl is the drain. it must be.

thanks!

ps: does this choke/enrichener block our air or fuel? i've heard some do one or the other
The enrichener opens a passage that allows a small stream of fuel to enter the carb throat. If it is stuck open that could be an issue. You can try lowering the float, that would lean it out some.
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Old 04-26-2013, 01:38 PM   #22
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so should the enrichener lever be pushed down to close it? or up to close it?

or, should the plunger rod be down in the carb, or pulled out?

i lowered the float last night, i fear too far, as it wouldn't start.


and to add salt to my wounds, my '07 dr650 suzuki won't start either.
unreal.
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:17 PM   #23
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got both running!

the '07 was a fuel/air screw on bottom of carb,

the '76 was, yet again, a float/float bowl issue.

when i lowered the float, it was way too much, and the bowl was empty again

so i raised it, and pulled out the fuel/air screw quite far, and presto, it runs. i'm still not sure about the points... something seems weird. maybe i'm crazy.

the throttle does not respond very quickly at all. but it idled on its own for like 5 minutes.

i then proceeded to tip it over quite far taking it off the stand with all the excitement... it wouldn't start after that

smoke was whiter in color, and the spark plug was heavily oil fouled (crank seals?)

basically, if the bike shows me signs of life, i'll be rebuilding it thoroughly to perfection in the future. (before parts are gone)

thank you so far. something tells me i'm not done with this sucker
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Old 04-30-2013, 06:08 PM   #24
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doesn't want to start today.

granted, it's about 0 degrees celcius (32 farenheit)

when the bike is leaning foward, as in tilted forward when on the stand, it will want to start and idle much easier than when it is tilted back. would more or less fuel be in the float bowl when leaning forward or back?
or does it matter?

and i've tried (un)screwing the air screw to see if it would offset.

it seems like a really slow, and delayed idle. like it fires every second time or something. like there is a moment in between firing.

anywho, will be back. with pics too!

ps: still waiting on the points plate and condensor,
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Old 04-30-2013, 06:52 PM   #25
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http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/cl...tml?sort=3&o=4

http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/cl...tml?sort=3&o=3

http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/cl...tml?sort=3&o=2
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Old 05-01-2013, 12:35 PM   #26
Andyinhilo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clicheche View Post
doesn't want to start today.

granted, it's about 0 degrees celcius (32 farenheit)

when the bike is leaning foward, as in tilted forward when on the stand, it will want to start and idle much easier than when it is tilted back. would more or less fuel be in the float bowl when leaning forward or back?
or does it matter?

and i've tried (un)screwing the air screw to see if it would offset.

it seems like a really slow, and delayed idle. like it fires every second time or something. like there is a moment in between firing.

anywho, will be back. with pics too!

ps: still waiting on the points plate and condensor,
It should be less fuel if the bike is tilted forward, I think. The air screw controls air, so screw in for richer, out for leaner.
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Old 05-02-2013, 12:04 AM   #27
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thanks!
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Old 05-03-2013, 11:35 AM   #28
psycho klr
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Until you get a service manual for this bike so that you can properly set the float level adjustment, air screw, timing, etc., you are just chasing your tail. You may be able to find the info online but it would be easier to find a manual.
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Old 05-04-2013, 05:59 PM   #29
clicheche OP
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i can't even find a manual! (i rarely use e-bay)

are these settings that fickle for the bike to run?

obviously timing is of concern. i have a feeler guage, just need the points gap settings. (and the parts to arrive) nothing online.

thanks for the advice. i never thought about float height needing to be super exact... in a simple 2 stroke case.

thanks again!
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Old 05-09-2013, 10:17 PM   #30
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how does one set the timing?

i've had the bike running in the recent past, but as of today the thing won't even turn over. i'm definitely at a loss.
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