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Old 05-21-2013, 09:56 AM   #1
RandyLove OP
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Location: Marin County, CA
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Seeking KLR Mechanic in Northern California

I need to have my 2007 KLR650's engine rebuilt and I've decided to go with a bore kit since we'll be in there. Can anyone recommend a mechanic in Northern California that has a penchant for this beast and it's wily ways?

It's my intent to get pricing and suggestions as to which kit is more appropriate fit for my riding style, the 685 or the 705. Once I have more info and a little change in my pocket, it's game on!

Thanks for suggestions.

Randy
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Old 05-21-2013, 12:24 PM   #2
mcma111
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I know a guy...
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Old 05-21-2013, 01:41 PM   #3
HAPPYTRAILSINC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyLove View Post
I need to have my 2007 KLR650's engine rebuilt and I've decided to go with a bore kit since we'll be in there. Can anyone recommend a mechanic in Northern California that has a penchant for this beast and it's wily ways?

It's my intent to get pricing and suggestions as to which kit is more appropriate fit for my riding style, the 685 or the 705. Once I have more info and a little change in my pocket, it's game on!

Thanks for suggestions.

Randy
IF u want my professional opinion, leave it stock!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
and
use oem parts!!!!

you will be better off getting suspension dialed in for that beast than spending money to make that motor bigger!
bigger is not always better
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Old 05-21-2013, 03:05 PM   #4
RandyLove OP
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KLR Mechanic

Ha! Thanks Steve. I sent you a PM, let's chat.

Scott, are you with Happy Trails in Boise?? Man, I bought a ton of stuff from you guys before the Pan American tour I just got home from. The panniers worked great, just to name one of many items I purchased from ya'll.

I respect your thoughts on keeping it stock, but I hear such good things about going to the 685. This girl named Alison, whom I rode with in Central America, had the 685 kit, installed by Wyman I believe; and she was super happy with it. Maybe the question should be, "Why should I NOT upgrade"? Does the 685 drastically reduce longevity? If it's a marginal loss, like another rebuild in 35k miles, not 45-50k miles, that's no big deal to me. I don't think I'll ever put this bike through another 25k mile ride so it would take me years to put that much mileage on.

I realize this could be a Pandora's Box of un-scientific answers, just give me your $.02 worth.

Randy
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Old 05-21-2013, 04:39 PM   #5
HAPPYTRAILSINC
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nope, not that happytrails!!!!

Ive built hundreds of xr motors at my time @ xr's only!

and after years working @ a dealerships and seeing the quality/longevity of oem versus aftermarket, i now go the stock route, most of the times bigger pistons weigh more,then and after boring u have a thinner sleeve that is easier to get hot,
higher compression and cc's put more wear and tear on stuff: ie small end of the rod, crank etc!

i know u guys will say i have a bored out 250 so , but i have seen more damage w/hopping up big motors versus small 250's!!


but u know how we like to tinker:I just had customer who has a polaris rzr XP900-this thing is FAST/BAS ASS, so he tinkers w/it, puts on a turbo, and a few hrs later he needs a complete motor job($2000) all because of the extra stress from the turbo!
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Old 05-21-2013, 05:17 PM   #6
RodT
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+1 leave it stock and it'll last longer and work the way it was designed. Extra hp takes it's toll on the rest of the motor.


QUOTE
the quality/longevity of oem versus aftermarket, i now go the stock route, most of the times bigger pistons weigh more,then and after boring u have a thinner sleeve that is easier to get hot,
higher compression and cc's put more wear and tear on stuff: ie small end of the rod, crank etc! QUOTE
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Old 05-21-2013, 08:31 PM   #7
mcma111
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  • 102.5mm - 685cc
  • Kit supplied with rings, pin, circlips, base gasket spacer, base gasket, head gasket, cam chain tensioner gasket and exhaust gasket
  • Moly Coated Skirt
  • Dual Pin Oilers
  • DLC Coated Pin
  • 83 grams lighter than stock
  • 9.7 to 1 Compression
  • Valve relief to clear 40/36mm Valves
  • Std. Tension Oil Ring
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BMW's
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87 Harley FXRS-SP ~ 06 KTM 625 SMC ~ 72 Honda CB750/915cc ~ 92 XR600/654cc ~ 95 XR650l/675cc ~ 03 CRF450r ~ 05 CRF450x ~ 02 XR650l/675cc ~ 86 YZ490 ~ 93 YZ80 ~ 93 XR650l Project
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:18 AM   #8
larryboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RodT View Post
+1 leave it stock and it'll last longer and work the way it was designed. Extra hp takes it's toll on the rest of the motor.


Maybe having to hammer on a big heavy bike with no HP is what took out the bearing behind the clutch basket on my old KLR? Maybe more HP on the big heavy KLR would help the bottom end live longer? I did a 685 kit on that bike, the difference was pretty substantial...worth every penny, should have done it when the bike was new instead of right before I sold it.
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Old 05-22-2013, 02:55 PM   #9
roaming_art
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
  • 102.5mm - 685cc
  • Kit supplied with rings, pin, circlips, base gasket spacer, base gasket, head gasket, cam chain tensioner gasket and exhaust gasket
  • Moly Coated Skirt
  • Dual Pin Oilers
  • DLC Coated Pin
  • 83 grams lighter than stock
  • 9.7 to 1 Compression
  • Valve relief to clear 40/36mm Valves
  • Std. Tension Oil Ring
As someone that has gone the 685 route on my KLR, I highly recommend you do so. Take advice lightly from people that don't know KLR's specifically. The 685 was installed on my motorcycle 3 years, and 20,000 miles ago, never have to top off my oil in between service intervals and it has a noticeable decrease in engine vibration. As long as you're not seeking power that the KLR cannot offer the 685 kit from Schnitz Racing is a very good investment. Stick with shops their site recommends for the bore or contact Wyman Winn on the KLR650.net site. Loads of info specific to your bike from owners that actually own your bike. Wyman hooked me up with my install as well.
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:36 PM   #10
Bigger Al
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
Maybe having to hammer on a big heavy bike with no HP is what took out the bearing behind the clutch basket on my old KLR? Maybe more HP on the big heavy KLR would help the bottom end live longer? I did a 685 kit on that bike, the difference was pretty substantial...worth every penny, should have done it when the bike was new instead of right before I sold it.

Bingo.

The 685 kit was the best thing that I did for my KLR in the 5 years that I owned it. I had the stock piston break all of the ring landings on the intake side at the 35K mile point. That has apparently been an issue with KLR's that are run on the hard side.

The 685 was a joy to ride, smoother, quicker to rev, and better on gas mileage to boot.
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Old 05-23-2013, 03:52 AM   #11
Off Limits
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Just from reading ride reports about the 2008 and up motors burning oil, why not put it in? It's a water cooled bike, unlike an already hot running air cooled xr. But if yours doesn't burn any oil or actually need a rebuild why bother.

+1 on doing suspension.
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Old 05-23-2013, 03:59 AM   #12
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Just read 2007 model. I would say if its faulty stock then change it. Now a question for happy trails. To gain more power, better to open up intake, exhaust, rejet, or run a big bore with stock style jetting stock quiet muffler, uncut airbox?
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Old 05-23-2013, 09:20 AM   #13
mcma111
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The only way to make more power is more air/fuel in and out and bump the compression ratio.
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BMW's
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87 Harley FXRS-SP ~ 06 KTM 625 SMC ~ 72 Honda CB750/915cc ~ 92 XR600/654cc ~ 95 XR650l/675cc ~ 03 CRF450r ~ 05 CRF450x ~ 02 XR650l/675cc ~ 86 YZ490 ~ 93 YZ80 ~ 93 XR650l Project
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Old 05-23-2013, 03:56 PM   #14
CA Stu
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The exhaust, airbox and carb mods will make a more rideable bike by making a bit more power at lower rpms, but the peak power will be the same.

I did the 685 kit and a "Fat Head" cylinder head, made the difference between feeling like an big block and a wound out small block.
Now when I open the throttle to pass a car at freeway speeds I actually go faster rather than just make more noise.
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