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Old 08-03-2013, 04:53 AM   #106
JohnnyTh OP
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Next morning it was still raining and we all gathered in the restaurant for breakfast. This would be our last few hours together. The Swiss part of the group would leave us and take the shortest route back home while me and the 3 croatians was following the coast line north and into first Bosnia then Croatia. After breakfast and the normal routine of studying the map we said our goodbyes. We also found time for a group picture.



The weather cleared a little and we set off again. Going back up into the mountains to reach the coast again. I took a lot more pictures of the tiny village as we left, one of the most beautiful places i have ever seen.





This is where we stayed


Our host waving goodbye


I think its safe to say that it was a mixed Group of bikes

There used to be a fish processing factory there and a few hundred people living there a few years back. The waitress at the restaurant told us; its still beautiful, but there is no money here any more. If you ever travel in this area, ask for a room at the restaurant. And be happy to leave a few euros with them.







The road north quickly improved and it was clear we where heeding in the direction of civilization. We reached the coast at the city of Budva and again we followed the coast.


Soon we reached a ferry and i pulled over. Sinisa did not agree and said we had to keep going and not use the ferry. My GPS said take the ferry and his told us not to. But Sinisa forgot to zoom out and see what the coastline looked like.





What we had reached was the bay of Kotor. We followed Sinisa and I'm glad we did, the scenery was spectacular. the narrow fjord opened up and the road was squeezed between the water and the mountains.



Old beautifull buildings, but the road was not so beautiful. The road was dug up completly and it was more off road riding then anything else. Soon me and Zdenko lost contact with the others as we where stuck behind some cars.

After a while in this road work hell we reached the World Heritage Site of Kotor.


I decided that i could not just ride past this but i had to make a stop. I told Zdenko and told him to say goodbye to the others from me. Our goodbye chat was cut short by a guy in a white car with blue flashing lights that told us to move. Zdenko rode off into the sunsett, never to be seen again...well maybe not the sunset as it was mid day. And i have him and Sinisas facebook details so we still in contact. Was great to ride with you guys. Hope we are going to Marokko next year;)

I parked in front of the fortified city and whit in seconds a lady came over and offerd me a room. She did not speak english but i explained here in croatian that i did not need a room as i was going to Dubrovnik. Wow I'm getting good in this language.

Il let the Pictures show you what Kotor is like













Someone have Money


Water was Clear



The city of Kotor is impressive. Its still a living city with people living in the houses but clearly the main focus these days was tourists. Shops selling souvenirs and local good was all over. And outside each shop someone would be smoking. I don't know about you guys. Might only be me as a nonsmoker but i thought it did not look right with someone outside each store smoking. Even if some of them looked better then others while smoking.


The electrical work is impresive again


I walked the streets of the city for a hour or so looking gat the sights. Then bought a ticket for the fortress. Yes there was a few euros to pay to a girl where the stairs up to the fortress started.


The main fortress sits on a mountain top 280m above the sea level and if i remember right it was 1300 stairs to reach it.



Health and Safty Department was here.





I can imagine how hard it would have been for a invading army to take the fortress.




I was half dead at the top climbing the stairs in my boots and riding pants. It was a warm day, the weather had changed completely and if you ever want to explore Kotor fortress, bring a bottle of water!

Thats a good idea for some shade. But i did not bring one.

I took some pictures of the impressive view.






I got back on my bike and while gearing up I had a heavy rain shower. It only lasted a few minutes and when i was ready to go again the sun was back out. The road followed the bay of Kotor and passed small villages and city's.


At 2 places underground rives exited the mountain side and into the bay. With some impressive waterfalls. It was strange to see all that water coming out of a hole in the cliff face.



5 hours of riding (plus a couple of hours sightseeing) after we where at the ferry i was back on the other side. I guess i was right that the ferry was the shortest route but i sure am glad i followed Sinisa or i would never seen Kotor.

Dubrovnik was just a couple of hours ride from Kotor bay and i thought i could be able to reach Split in Croatia that day. Coming from the south you get the famous view of The old city of Dubrovnik.



I found a parking space outside the city walls and made my way inside. My first stop was a restaurant as i needed to eat ad this was a culture shock for me. My little lunch was 16 euros.. Yesterday in Montenegro i payed 6 euros for dinner. If you wanted to climb the city walls it was another 12 euros. Clearly this was a tourist money machine and i did not like it.








I forgot about it and walked around the city for a while. Looking for the back roads and allys mainly. Like city of Kotor Dubrovnik is also a living city with real people in the houses. It was cool to see kids playing in the alleys and laundry drying in the windows.



Should be secure enough for that string.






Someone need a New door


Notice the beautifull stone stairs.


Cats are the same all over


I think the cat want to go out.


Out side the shops in the main tourist areas there was again the smokers having a smoke outside there shop.


Guess they dont use this anymore. Closing the gates would keep the tourists out.






Impressive walls



I found my bike where i left it and now there was a scoter parked in front of it, but it was easy to move so i could get out.


Laving the old city


After this there is not many pictures. I had Split as a goal and was going for it. Crossed the Croatian/Bosnian border where i had to show my passport for the last time and somewhere i crossed back into Croatia whit out noticing.

Wow, Now that is a wall


The weather did not improve and as it was getting dark it started to rain. After a little while it turned into a thunderstorm and the rain was insane, a few times i doubted i would be able to go on. I pulled over at a road side hotel and asked how much for a room, but it was way above my budget. Clearly i was back in the west.
After way to many hours in heavy rain i reached Split. To my surprise i was still not wet. My Rukka gear and Daytona boots is doing its job. But my gloves where soaked.

Before the rain


I searched Split for a low cost hotel but was not able to find one. I found a tourist information and pulled over as they where closing. The tourist information lady asked if i needed anything and i asked for a hotel. She had a private room i could have for 50 euros. just what i needed. The room was in a apartment building with parking outside. I don't think this was the best part of Split and this was the first time i was uncomfortable parking. I covered the bike in a cheep bike cover i had and locked it.
The room was clean, with a bathroom and perfect for my use.

The laundry from Montenegro was still not dry so i hung clothes everywhere trying to dry them and went to sleep, hoping the weather would improve.

JohnnyTh screwed with this post 08-03-2013 at 06:25 AM
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Old 08-03-2013, 12:07 PM   #107
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enjoying your RR

Hey Johnny,

I am enjoying your RR. I also have a GTR here in Vancouver Canada. What windshield are you using?
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Old 08-03-2013, 01:38 PM   #108
JohnnyTh OP
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Originally Posted by snoofus View Post
Hey Johnny,

I am enjoying your RR. I also have a GTR here in Vancouver Canada. What windshield are you using?
Thanx.

Im using a large calsci screen that i cut 2 inches off. Its ok but a bit to high for the hottest days. My C3 helmets dont have enough vents:) rarly a problem in Norway but sometimes i think im going to put the original back on, just for more air flow.
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Old 08-04-2013, 01:34 AM   #109
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It is weird that you could not find any suitable accommodation until Split.
It's 200km from Dubrovnik to Split, and literally every village along the way has at least a few rooms or apartments for rent. Almost every smaller town has a tourist info.

The long wall on your picture is from the town of Ston, at the beginning of Pelješac peninsula.
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Old 08-04-2013, 02:00 AM   #110
JohnnyTh OP
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Originally Posted by jeeves View Post
It is weird that you could not find any suitable accommodation until Split.
It's 200km from Dubrovnik to Split, and literally every village along the way has at least a few rooms or apartments for rent. Almost every smaller town has a tourist info.

The long wall on your picture is from the town of Ston, at the beginning of Pelješac peninsula.
Thanx for the info about Ston. Im sure you are right about accomodation but remember i had Split as a Goal that day.

My report will not be fair to Croatsia as i was running out of time nd the weather was bad. I will need to go back one day.
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Old 08-04-2013, 04:43 AM   #111
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Thanks for a wonderfull ride report Johhny...
You have a way with words , plenty of food shots, an eye for pretty girls...
What more does one need?

Thanks from the wilds of Tasmania...

JQ.
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Old 08-07-2013, 10:13 AM   #112
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Originally Posted by Tassie Devil View Post
Thanks for a wonderfull ride report Johhny...
You have a way with words , plenty of food shots, an eye for pretty girls...
What more does one need?

Thanks from the wilds of Tasmania...

JQ.
Girls? What girls? I just document what i see around me as i ride along
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Old 08-08-2013, 12:27 AM   #113
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Good ride report, thanks for sharing! I'm in.
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Old 08-12-2013, 05:06 AM   #114
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Good ride report, thanks for sharing! I'm in.
Thanx
I have been sick a few days(manflu) so if im not dying i will get a update ready in a few days.
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Old 08-13-2013, 02:35 PM   #115
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Next day it was still raining but not so bad any more. And this is where my ride report go tits up. Hope someone will still wait for the next update after reading this one.

My bike was still where i left it, so maybe the neighborhood was not so bad after all. My laundry was still not fully dry, must be the slowest drying ever. And while packing i noticed there was a heater in the bathroom. Kinda annoyed by myself that i did not see that last night as a little heat would maybe speeded up the drying.

When pulling out of the parking lot i had my fist close call. A car came from my left as i was about to pull out and i had to stop. I put me feet down but my right foot found a pothole that was hidden under water. Not as deep as the one in Greece but deep enough so the bike fell over. I remember thinking that no way im going to drop it now, not on a parking lot after having crossed rivers and dirt roads. And somehow i found enough strength to pull it back up when my foot finally found the bottom of the 4 inch pothole.

I did a short sightseeing ride in Split but i did not know enough about the city and found nothing interesting. Im sure its a nice city really but i just did not find anything special.

Soon i found myself back on the highway towards Zagreb. And it started to rain heavy again. All i wanted now was to find the end of this rain. But i did not and stayed on the highway all the way to Zagreb. I pulled over at a shopping mall and now i was really back in the west. I found McDonalds. Yeah yeah i know but its my adventure and i bought a BigMac and walked around the shopping mall for a bit. And guess what. I found a Apple store and they had a IPad SD card reader. Now i could finally post pictures on ADV again:)

I don't know why there is no pictures from this ride. I suppose the rain is to blame. But it makes a boring ride report.
I decided agenst visiting Zagreb. It was raining still and i did not want to walk around in the rain. And to be honest reaching Croatia was a big disappointment. Its a beautiful country but for me i came the wrong way. I felt i had left the adventure behind me in Albania and Montenegro, now i had reached the west and it was just like riding in Germany.
I know this is not fair and i will need to go back to Croatia to explore it more. Hope all who love Croatia will forgive me i was just having a bad day.

I left Zagreb and heeded north. and finally the rain stopped for a little while.

There is one thing i should tell you. I made a promise to myself that this adventure don't end until I'm back home. To many times when i have travel somewhere by car or bike i feel like the trip is over when I'm heading home. And now i had that feeling. I remembered my promise to myself and i punched Praha into the GPS and i thought i would explore Czech Republic.
At the Croatia/Slovenia border i meet Mike, a British guy that had been exploring eastern Europe on a Triumph Explorer. We had a chat but he was in a rush as he had hotel reservations and had to be there before it got to late. I wished him luck and was happy i did not travel like that. I much more prefer the freedom of riding as little or far as i feel like. Even is it means I some times need to sleep beside the road.
I was ignoring the signs telling me to buy a vignette for road tax, thinking i was only going to cross the country in a short time. Slovenia countryside was green rolling hills and dense woods. and also the weather cleared and i could see that the sky was clearer somwhere up north where i was heeding.
It did not take long before i was approaching the next border crossing. But before that there was a cheek point that wanted to see if i had payed the vignette. I played the unknowing biker tourist and said i did not know there was a vignette to buy. The guy in the boot bought it and went to get me one. I got a warning that next time it would be to late if i reached the cheek point. I gave him a thumbs up and carried on to the border to Austria.

In my next update i will have a few pictures again so don't give up on me yet. The adventure is not over!
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Old 08-18-2013, 11:31 AM   #116
JohnnyTh OP
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I rolled back into Austria and bought the Vignette i needed. Soon i would cross my route for the first time. I was hoping i would be able to reach Czech Republic as it would be a lot less expensive to get a hotel there. The ride thru Austria was beautiful, it was still raining but not so bad any more.
The road going from Maribor in Slovenia and to Linz in Austria took me thru some beautiful valleys and past some great mountains.



I pulled over at a Austrian rest area and they sure now how and where to make rest areas in Austria.



Even had a parking place dedicated to motorbikes.


While i where there a bus pulled over and the rest area was in seconds filled with drunk austrians peeing all over the place and throwing glass bottles all over the place. I cant say i was to impressed over the locals.


But who need to look at drunk locals when you have views like this.


After Linz the road was getting more and more narrow and soon i found myself on a secondary road leading into Czech Republic. It was getting late and sun was going down. Close to the border i entered a small town, but even if it was now dark i did not want to stop as it looked kinda trashy. I pushed on to the next town Kaplice and and even if it did not look much better i found myself a small hotel, and got myself a 50 euro hotel room with parking on the street. The streets where empty and it looked like a ghost town.

Glad to finally be out of the rain i again hung my laundry up in room and crashed on the bed.

The next morning i looked out the window and finally i had found the sun. Weather was nice and sunny. And the bike was still where i left it. Now in daylight the town was not so bad. There where shops open and people in the streets, in fact it was a nice little small town.


Riding out of town i had still not decided where to go and while stopping for gas i remembered reading something about a church of bones in a ride report here. I called my wife and asked her to do some research and soon i was on my way to Kutná Hora

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Old 08-21-2013, 02:41 PM   #117
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Also at this gas station i found my favorite chocolate. I bought one of these back in 2011 on the border leaving the country. Now finaly i had found it again.


The road there was taking me thru narrow country side roads and i had a great day. The weather was nice again and i loved to be on the bike.


Also found a city, never did catch the name and not sure where it was but it was nice. with nice stone buildings, some big, and some not so big.






I did some shopping but this one i did not buy.


Kutná Hora was spectacular. Dominated by a huge cathedral surrounded by other beautiful buildings.


I took some pictures and asked for directions for the church of bones.




The Church of bones was 5 km from the main religious site and i found it whiteout problems.


The church its self is not so impressive but when you enter all that change. My first thought was wow this is very beautiful



But after a few seconds I realized that this was bones of humans. It was still beautiful but in a bizarre way.





Lots of signs telling me not to touch any bones. Like i needed a sign for that.


I left Kutná Hora glad i had made the detour and set my course for Praha. I had seen Praha before a coupe of years ago so i did not want to go into town again and i turned north.

A few minutes north of Praha i ran into a wall of rain and i pushed hotels into my GPS. It came up with a campsite just 2 km from my location and i thought that would be perfect. I found the campsite but dam, this is the shittiest campsite i have ever seen. $ euro to pitch a tent and 8 euros for what the lady called a bungalow.




Bungalow is a fancy name for that cabin she gave me the keys to but at least it was dry and she gave me some clean bed sheets. My GTR got a roof over its head so in that way it was the best place so far.





There was a restaurant on the site but it did not look like anywhere i wanted to eat. Glad i had dinner in Praha.


Next day will take me to Berlin.
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Old 09-14-2013, 03:56 PM   #118
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Next morning i had one of thise adventurer Challenges. Where to find a toilet. I dont mind going behind a tree in the Woods but that only works in the wilderness. Its a lot harder to find somwhere you want to sit Down in civilazation.
The Next morning i needed a toilet and i set off for the on site toilet. The first boot i opened there where some guy sitting. i quickly shut the door and told him sorry. Then looked in the Next boot -hmmf no paper, next one same, last one again no paper. After a few Seconds this guy came out and he pointet to a roll of paper hanging on the wall outside the toilets. Ok i thought that will work to. Atleast they use paper here and not like in Albania.
Then i found out why the guy didnt Lock his door. The doors didnt have Locks. Thats when i decided i didnt need to use the toulet and would wait for a McDonalds rescue.

MAybe not so interesting but all part of the adventure:)
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Old 09-15-2013, 01:27 PM   #119
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This report is truly amazing JohnnyTH. I am glad it is not over yet!
Your commentary is both informative and very funny.
The photos you took in Metora are brilliant. All of the photos are great, but those are stunning.

Keep the posts coming.
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Old 09-15-2013, 04:29 PM   #120
JohnnyTh OP
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Your commentary is both informative and very funny.
And thats a good thing? After all my last post was about toilets

Thank you. Glad to hear jo enjoy the report.
Sadly its quickly comming to a end :( but still a couple of days left. Just need to find time write.
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