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Old 04-28-2013, 12:25 PM   #1
ipaulog OP
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950 Front Axle Problems

Firstly, I have searched and read but still seek enlightenment. I have just spent half a day getting the front axle out of my 2005 950 - first time since I've had the bike. I pre-installed a puller as well.
Having driven it out with a timber drift I managed to avoid buggering it up
It wasn't very well greased but not dry either and I'm struggling to see why it was so hard to get out.
I'm thinking that the forks aren't lined up very well. Can anyone give me the drill for proper alignment so that I can set everything up just right before putting it back together.
Thanks,
Paul.
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Old 04-28-2013, 01:14 PM   #2
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Check the H.O.W.

http://www.ktm950.info/how/Suspensio...orkleg_rr.html

Look halfway down that page to where "very important" is typed in red. I haven't used this exact procedure, but something very similar. I believe the important thing is making sure the axle is centered in the forks and turns smoothly before buttoning everything up.
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Old 04-28-2013, 01:54 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ipaulog View Post
I pre-installed a puller as well.
If you installed one of those Zip-Ty type pullers that has the two part thing that expands like a bar-end weight, that can actually expand the axle if tightened too tight. I installed a CJDesigns pusher in a new axle recently. That seems to work well.

I do find it very hard at times to line everything up with the dual front disks on these bikes and get that axle in. Make sure you go back with a lot of grease.
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Old 04-28-2013, 02:01 PM   #4
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What makes it MUCH easier to get out is... Once the pinch bolts have been loosened, a flat blade tapped into each forks' pinch space makes all the difference

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Old 04-28-2013, 02:05 PM   #5
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What makes it MUCH easier to get out is... Once the pinch bolts have been loosened, a flat blade tapped into each forks' pinch space makes all the difference

+1. Yep, that helps A LOT.
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Old 04-28-2013, 02:08 PM   #6
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Yes. But.

It can mask a misalignment issue. The goal is easy, no-resistance installation. If it requres force, it might be misaligned.

In practice, however, I wedge the pinch all the time.
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Old 04-28-2013, 03:44 PM   #7
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Thanks for the help. The puller I installed is an interference fit and I did open the pinch space. I will be greasing well but I want to know that it will come out easily when it matters. I will follow the "very important" guide from cpmodem and see if that makes a difference.
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Old 04-28-2013, 05:30 PM   #8
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In Orangecicle's photo, do you see the exposed portion of the axle?

That part corrodes, making it tough to push through the fork, in my experience.
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Old 04-29-2013, 12:30 AM   #9
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tha black coating can be sticky. I take some or all off with a scotchbrite pad and keep it coated in grease. easy in and out without tools oter than spanners.
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Old 04-29-2013, 02:35 AM   #10
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It doesnt seem badly corroded and it had to be driven out along the entire length. I'm just cleaning everything up and checking alignment and then I'll know better.
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Old 04-29-2013, 04:54 AM   #11
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If you had to persuade it out nearly the entire length then the issue is the spacer inside the wheel hub. Once the axle is moved to the right a couple inches it is free of both the fork clamps and the only thing it has contact with at that point it the spacer. Check the spacer and bearing inner diameters for corrosion.
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Old 04-30-2013, 04:04 AM   #12
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If you had to persuade it out nearly the entire length then the issue is the spacer inside the wheel hub. Once the axle is moved to the right a couple inches it is free of both the fork clamps and the only thing it has contact with at that point it the spacer. Check the spacer and bearing inner diameters for corrosion.
Well the spacer is immaculate and doesn't come into contact with the axle as far as I can see as it is a couple of mm larger internal diameter than the bearings. The bearings themselves feel good and smooth but the inner surface is nice on the puller side but very rough on the nut side - to the point where I can't push the axle through the wrong way by hand! That doesn't explain why it was difficult after that point though.
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Old 04-30-2013, 05:10 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by ipaulog View Post
Well the spacer is immaculate and doesn't come into contact with the axle as far as I can see as it is a couple of mm larger internal diameter than the bearings. The bearings themselves feel good and smooth but the inner surface is nice on the puller side but very rough on the nut side - to the point where I can't push the axle through the wrong way by hand! That doesn't explain why it was difficult after that point though.

I would remove the bearing/s and replace if the inner surface couldn't be cleaned up enough to let the axle pass through smoothly. In any case this is where your issue is stemming from, not the forks. If it were a fork alignment issue, once the large diameter of the axle was free, the axle would slide out easily.
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Old 04-30-2013, 06:31 AM   #14
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I would remove the bearing/s and replace if the inner surface couldn't be cleaned up enough to let the axle pass through smoothly. In any case this is where your issue is stemming from, not the forks. If it were a fork alignment issue, once the large diameter of the axle was free, the axle would slide out easily.
Agreed. I'm ordering new bearings, cleaning everything up and putting it all back together carefully. Glad I was at home when I encountered this problem.
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Old 04-30-2013, 11:28 PM   #15
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+1

Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenD View Post
tha black coating can be sticky. I take some or all off with a scotchbrite pad and keep it coated in grease. easy in and out without tools oter than spanners.
This was a problem with early bikes. That black sticky coating was trouble. I removed it with sandpaper and grease thoroughly. I also fabricaled a cylinder that bolts in the axle and can be taped to drive the axle out.
Cheers.
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