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Old 05-07-2013, 06:53 PM   #31
Jeremy1981
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Question Mirrors?

What mirrors are those? How usable are they at speed?

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Old 05-08-2013, 04:02 AM   #32
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Got them on Ebay from a Hong Kong Vendor. They're about 10 bucks for a pair so I can crash and replace them as often as I'd like. Do a search for bar end mirrors and a ton will come up.

Functionally, they're not too convex so things don't get crazy small in the middle, but I don't make a habit of staring into them too long. They are good for making sure no one is too close to my radius of comfort and the blind spot. They are good for the city. If I'm really trying to see further behind me, I turn my head and whole body and look behind.


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What mirrors are those? How usable are they at speed?

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Old 05-08-2013, 08:36 PM   #33
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Righteous Stunt Metal (RSM) Clutch

The first time I found myself thinking that I needed to remedy the stock WRR clutch was during the 2nd dual sport ride in the Berkshires. My arm was pumped up so badly that I could no longer work the clutch going through a rock garden creek crossing. I was so fatigued that i had to let my an inmate ride it over for me. At that time, I was just generally out of shape back then and my bike skills were still lacking a bit which all contributed to that happening.

So for the WRR (the 1st) I purchased a set of Shorty Zeta Clutch and Brake Levers. It was a big improvement as they were adjustable and great for gaining more clutch pull as now I could pull the clutch in all the way back to the bars due to their shortness (allowing me to clear my last 2 fingers).

Still, the Zeta lacked precision as it was either on or off with no progression or feel. There were times I would try lay the power on gently, but end up with too much throttle. One example was trying to get over a medium size root off camber. Several inmates built a small ramp using rocks and all I had to do was roll lightly over it. Instead I ended with too much throttle and lost the front end as it hit the slick root—the WRR is not a tractor and stalls easily so one has to modulate the power using the clutch while keeping the RPM's higher.

I heard good things about the RSM clutch, which is design and manufactured in California by founder Josh Miller. Originally, I purchased the standard unanodized raw clutch to save a few bucks, but after installing it, found that it was leaving black soot on my white gloves. Sent them back and got the black ones.

 photo DSC_7704_zps4b1154c3.jpg

Its a very solid well constructed piece. Here it is on the bike:

 photo P1030491_zps30feb4de.jpg

Its a spendy piece, but precision demands it. After several street rides with it, I can tell it is a huge upgrade in feel. The clutch is buttery smooth and the pull is a LOT lighter now. There are 2 positions for the cable (the one closer to the bar provides the easiest pull) as well as an adjuster to bring the lever closer.
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Old 05-14-2013, 12:33 PM   #34
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TCX Pro 1.1 Pro Evo Boots

This post would be more about One Dude, but never the less…

In preparation for the Berkshires Big Adventure Ride this weekend, I picked up a pair of these sweet TCX Pro 1.1 boots from Revzilla. Wasn't sure about comfort until, I put them on and hung out abit around the house. After 15 minutes, I sorta forgot I was wearing them, and so decided they passed the test.


 photo DSC_7818_zps5e6cca82.jpg



 photo DSC_7819_zpsc8d1517e.jpg


The boot is heavier than the current TCX "Combat Boot" I've worn for the past 3 seasons and weigh in at 4.48 lbs, but I'll just chalk that up to it being a more protective boot.


 photo DSC_7820_zps57608b5a.jpg


From a style standpoint, I like their clean modern aesthetics which functionally translates to not having alot of extraneous pieces sticking out to catch on bike parts—something I was experiencing allot of on my old boot. The inside is very simple and acts as a nice grippy interface with the bike.


 photo DSC_7806_zpsf243ffef.jpg



 photo DSC_7809_zps04ae65fe.jpg
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Old 05-14-2013, 01:31 PM   #35
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Me, I'd spray those boots barbeque black right now... nice though.

The real test for me is if they rub thru the skin or bruise on a long ride.
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Old 05-15-2013, 03:23 AM   #36
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Nice thread you got going Simon. Rock on.
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Old 05-15-2013, 10:42 AM   #37
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Thanks Man. Good to hear you're enjoying it.

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Nice thread you got going Simon. Rock on.
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Old 05-15-2013, 10:45 AM   #38
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Bleaching it's behind

 photo null_zps30a748c7.jpg
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:47 AM   #39
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Almost ready for primetime

Got around to:
• Changing the oil (10w40 Valvoline Sythetic)
• Dial in sag and set clickers to WRR (the 1st) settings
• Installing white rear fender
• Pro Moto Billet Rack
• and Evo Tech Skid plate

I did manage to bugger up the chain adjuster blocks. The left axle bock that hold the axle in place bent like butter under the torque of a 24" breaker bar as I tightened down the nut.

Will be replacing that with a non-name billet blue axle block off of fleabay.

 photo IMG_2720_zpsaa04d5bf.jpg

 photo d3565e47f0542f6aecc8a1c92431ba8c_zps3dd65cff.jpg

 photo 8ac1617ba20da7ba98ef8d92125dfa5c_zps92c448d5.jpg

 photo ef981dedabf65bf0fdcd154e902362c1_zpse933355a.jpg
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Old 05-16-2013, 06:26 AM   #40
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"The left axle bock that hold the axle in place bent like butter under the torque of a 24" breaker bar"

Same effect happened on mine recently. I found that the threads inside the axle nut were trashed , and were working on trashing the axle threads, too.
The force required to tighten the nut was sufficient to bend the leg of the axle block.

I couldn't figure how it happened, so i chased the axle threads and got a new nut.
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:11 AM   #41
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What do mean by "chased the axle threads"? The old nut I was using was rounded out, so I put a new nut on it.

I was thinking I might need a new axle if a brand new nut was so much trouble to get on and off. There was tension all the way from tight to loose. Is this a sign that I need a new axle?

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"The left axle bock that hold the axle in place bent like butter under the torque of a 24" breaker bar"

Same effect happened on mine recently. I found that the threads inside the axle nut were trashed , and were working on trashing the axle threads, too.
The force required to tighten the nut was sufficient to bend the leg of the axle block.

I couldn't figure how it happened, so i chased the axle threads and got a new nut.
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:46 AM   #42
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When you drill a hole and put threads into it, you use a tap. When you put threads on a rod, or round stock, you use a die( or lathe on big enough stuff). If you have a bolt that has buggered up threads, you use a die, or a hardened nut, to "chase" the threads. He basically just means he fixed the threads that were on the axle.
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:12 PM   #43
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Thanks, I see. I knew about Tapping, but didn't know Chasing was the opposite.

Would it make to sense to replace the axle or to chase the threads? I don't have the tools to make that happen obviously, so it's a matter of investing in tools vs. trashing the old axle.

Sux, because the new bolt might now be buggered due to the axle.

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When you drill a hole and put threads into it, you use a tap. When you put threads on a rod, or round stock, you use a die( or lathe on big enough stuff). If you have a bolt that has buggered up threads, you use a die, or a hardened nut, to "chase" the threads. He basically just means he fixed the threads that were on the axle.
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:46 PM   #44
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Sorry, I should have said filed the threads. I put the axle in a vise and used some small knife-shaped files to reshape the ruined threads. It looked like the nut internal threads were slightly softer than the axle and took the brunt of the damage, so I took the risk that a new nut would do it, it worked. I put some anti-sieze on it and worked the nut forward and back until it ran nice.

I had the same symptoms, the nut turning force was hard all along the axle threads, and the raised bar on the left block was bent by the flat of the axle turning into it.
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Old 05-16-2013, 01:44 PM   #45
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Simon, how's the WR as a "city" bike. I realize that's not what it was designed for but my dual sports serve double duty for me. They are ridden on forest service roads as well as in and out of Seattle traffic. I currently use my XT250 as my commuter, visit friends and places in the city, and nearby easy FS road machine but the WR looks like a possible future upgrade.
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