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Old 05-04-2013, 01:00 AM   #16
Tech23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motomedic View Post
Try not to push the tire lever past vertical. I can't say this does it every time, but it helps.
I'll second this good advise. When you pull the handle of tire iron past 90 degrees to the rim, the tip of the tire iron tends to grab the tube and pinch it between the tire iron and the rim...especially if you don't have sufficient air in the tube to help it keep its shape and out of harms way. A light dusting of talcum powder on the tube and inside of the tire will help the tube situate itself inside the tire after the tire is mounted up and you are inflating and deflating the tube a few times to get rid of any folds, twists.

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Old 05-04-2013, 06:17 AM   #17
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Do the stem area first, then keep the mounted portion of the tire pushed down into the center of the rim, this keeps the tube there also and away from the bead. And hold your mouth just right.. and dont swear, dont panic. Its just a tube.emti
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:10 PM   #18
bwringer
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I think got all my tube pinching out of the way when I was an avid bicycle rider.

Haven't pinched a motorcycle tube yet.

Never going past a certain point with the irons is key. Also, don't insert them too far.

Know where the tube is... be the tube.

Use the force?
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Old 05-08-2013, 01:39 PM   #19
HapHazard
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Take a look here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50717
It was a great help to me on my latest tire mounting project. Put the tube into the tire and slightly inflate FIRST.
The tube then stays out of harm's way.
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Old 05-08-2013, 02:25 PM   #20
Fourstring
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What's the preferred technique for the last eight inches of tube? I was using 18" irons last night WITH my wife holding the tire on; we couldn't spoon it on. The iron was even bending.

Also, how does everyone handle rim locks? Last, first, doesn't matter?
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Old 05-08-2013, 03:19 PM   #21
HapHazard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fourstring View Post
What's the preferred technique for the last eight inches of tube? I was using 18" irons last night WITH my wife holding the tire on; we couldn't spoon it on. The iron was even bending.

Also, how does everyone handle rim locks? Last, first, doesn't matter?
I presume you mean tire, not tube? Make sure that the bead of the tire is down in the well of the wheel - if it is sitting on the bead seat area, you won't be able to get it over the rim and you can ruin the tire. Also, use lots of tire mounting lube. The last few inches will usually go on with a few well placed shots with a rubber hammer (also great for releasing tire-mounting frustration).
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Old 05-08-2013, 03:24 PM   #22
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Put one bead on, then the rim lock, (leave the nut on the end of the bolt) then the tube, then the second bead.make sure the bead is below the rubber on the rimlock. Use the exposed nut and bolt to push the rimlock up into the tire. emti
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Old 05-08-2013, 05:27 PM   #23
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Once I get the tire stem in and a nut threaded on, I partially inflate the tire to get the wrinkles out. I then deflate it and start spooning it on without going past 90 degrees with the irons.

Make sure that the tire is depressed into the center of the rim. You can do that with the palm of your hands. Usually it requires repeated effort.

I do powder the tube and afterwards carry them in a sealed plastic bag for off road use.

It must work, I used to get a puncture on every install and it has been ages since I have done that.
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Old 05-08-2013, 05:37 PM   #24
NYTrainer
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Broken Stubbies

After breaking two stubbies (Because I am apparently unable to follow the directions that came with them), I have a buddy with a tire changing stand change them for me.

The Stubbies come with great directions. Pay special attention to the "drop center", when changing the tire. It is the key to spooning on a difficult dirt tire.
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:49 AM   #25
buls4evr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fourstring View Post
What's the preferred technique for the last eight inches of tube? I was using 18" irons last night WITH my wife holding the tire on; we couldn't spoon it on. The iron was even bending.

Also, how does everyone handle rim locks? Last, first, doesn't matter?

The key is to have the opposite side of the tire bead down in the rim valley. I also use 3 short irons (MotionPro or MSR) and short purchases not huge ones. I just step on the bead with my foot/feet. I always put the valve stem side on first with the nut on 2 threads and also back out any rim lock to 2 threads. When you start mounting make sure the rim lock nut can be depressed all the way to the rim and the bead is by it. You should have rim-tire bead - lock then tube pushing on it. When you are done you should be able to push the rim lock back in and the tube will push it back out. I also eliminate the rubber strip on the rim and run Gorilla Tape on the spoke line so everything stays in the right place. Nothing more annoying than having that rim strip be over a hole that it is not supposed to be covering. Otherwise.... Good slippins,talcum powder just a touch of tube air are key. If it takes 2 people you are doing it wrong.
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:18 AM   #26
Scootern29
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For the last 8 inches or so of the bead I make sure it is lubed real well and have pressure on it and pound it with a rubber mallet over the rim. It works real easy IMO.
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Old 05-10-2013, 05:04 PM   #27
.fisher
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYTrainer View Post
Pay special attention to the "drop center", when changing the tire. It is the key to spooning on a difficult dirt tire.
This.

I once read or watched a tutorial on tire mounting somewhere that noted "if you're working hard, you're doing it wrong". I'm just as guilty of this as the next guy cursing my way through spooning a tire on. Slow down, work smart.

Good to read about not pushing the irons past 90º, I think that's where I've gotten in trouble and pinched a few tubes. Hopefully I don't have to test that theory soon…
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