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Old 05-02-2013, 03:39 AM   #1
OldDog OP
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How do I fit new fork springs to a Tiger 800XC?

Howdy All, Quick question for the guru's out there. I see they are selling Hyperpro fork springs on ebay, and I reckon my bike could do with heavier front springs.

Do I need special tools? How hard is it to strip the forks down to replace the springs etc? Oh and what weight oil is in the standard fork?

Thanks in advance!!!

OD
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Old 05-02-2013, 06:27 AM   #2
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It's pretty easy.

Make sure you loosen the fork caps while the forks are still held in the triple clamp, then remove the forks.

Remove the cap, pull out the cartridge, and the spring should be readily retrievable.

Make sure oil level is correct, as some will have come out.

Reassemble in reverse order, put fork caps back on but don't try to torque them down yet.

Replace forks in triple clamps, secure, and then torque the fork caps.
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Old 05-02-2013, 06:46 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Yossarian™ View Post
It's pretty easy.

Make sure you loosen the fork caps while the forks are still held in the triple clamp, then remove the forks.

Remove the cap, pull out the cartridge, and the spring should be readily retrievable.

Make sure oil level is correct, as some will have come out.

Reassemble in reverse order, put fork caps back on but don't try to torque them down yet.

Replace forks in triple clamps, secure, and then torque the fork caps.
Do you the spring compressor tool to separate the spring from the cartridge?
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Old 05-03-2013, 12:12 AM   #4
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Thanks Yoss, mate that sure sounds easy! I'll give it a shot tomorrow and report the results

Cheers

Bill
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Old 05-03-2013, 05:48 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by cory1848 View Post
Do you the spring compressor tool to separate the spring from the cartridge?
no.
make sure you keep everything upright too. that was my first mistake when i did mine. oil, spring... everything went on the floor!

lots of videos on YouTube. that's how i learned how to rebuild my rmz forks. it was just discussed in the t800 thread maybe a week ago. someone there posted the weight from the service manual.
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Old 05-03-2013, 08:43 AM   #6
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no.
make sure you keep everything upright too. that was my first mistake when i did mine. oil, spring... everything went on the floor!

lots of videos on YouTube. that's how i learned how to rebuild my rmz forks. it was just discussed in the t800 thread maybe a week ago. someone there posted the weight from the service manual.
Thanks, just checking on that tool. The service manual says you need it but I have read as well that the springs are weak enough that you can just push them down while loosening the nut.
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Old 05-03-2013, 11:16 PM   #7
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Dunno what I was so worried about, these forks are dead easy to pull apart. I had them apart in less than an hour with the usual shed tools. As FB states above, the tension on the springs is very light, it was no trouble at all to push the tube down and loosen the nut with my fingers.
I weigh a bit so while I was there i dropped 20 extra mils of oil in the legs and made up 1/2 inch spacers to put some extra tension on the springs until the new ones show up. I'm off on a long ride next week so will see how well the mods work out

Cheers for the advice guys!
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Old 05-04-2013, 08:32 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by OldDog View Post
Dunno what I was so worried about, these forks are dead easy to pull apart. I had them apart in less than an hour with the usual shed tools. As FB states above, the tension on the springs is very light, it was no trouble at all to push the tube down and loosen the nut with my fingers.
I weigh a bit so while I was there i dropped 20 extra mils of oil in the legs and made up 1/2 inch spacers to put some extra tension on the springs until the new ones show up. I'm off on a long ride next week so will see how well the mods work out

Cheers for the advice guys!
Post back with your observations.
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Old 05-05-2013, 02:10 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by OldDog View Post
Dunno what I was so worried about, these forks are dead easy to pull apart. I had them apart in less than an hour with the usual shed tools. As FB states above, the tension on the springs is very light, it was no trouble at all to push the tube down and loosen the nut with my fingers.
I weigh a bit so while I was there i dropped 20 extra mils of oil in the legs and made up 1/2 inch spacers to put some extra tension on the springs until the new ones show up. I'm off on a long ride next week so will see how well the mods work out

Cheers for the advice guys!
Let us know. I am heavier as well so looking for options. Highly considering hyper pro.
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Old 05-05-2013, 07:21 PM   #10
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Let us know. I am heavier as well so looking for options. Highly considering hyper pro.
Well I'll tell ya......heavier oil and more of it was a mistake. The bike handled better but it made the front end bounce worse - more pronounced. So I reduced the oil back to standard height and the bounce is reduced. Tonight I'm going to replace the fork oil with 5 weight and see what that does.

I'll be replacing the front with the hyper pro springs as soon as they turn up but in the meantime I reckon the packing under the spring and lighter fork oil will make it a bit more bearable. If the progressive springs don't work then I'll send the forks off to be rebuilt.

Funny thing I've also noted, My front wheel is slightly out of round, say by 1-2mm, that can't be helping!
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Old 05-06-2013, 07:23 PM   #11
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Pulled the forks again last night and replaced the oil with 5 weight. Makes a bit of a difference alright. Next plan will be to fit even lighter oil at some stage, I'm now down to under an hour to have em out, apart, back in and the triples retensioned

One issue I've found though, the left side fork leg upper bushing is very worn, you can easily feel the leg clunking back and forth, and this on a Tiger that is just over 10000kms old!!! Not happy about the quality Triumph, these must be the cheapest Showa forks money can buy

Thinking about converting to some WP forks off a KTM.
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Old 05-07-2013, 07:00 AM   #12
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Rather than lightening the oil further you might considered lowering the amount of oil. More air gap increases the compressability of the forks, since air compresses and oil does not. Also, worn bushing probably aren't Triumph's fault. I'd blame that one is on Showa. Bushing will wear quickly if the oil is contaminated. How'd your original oil look?
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Old 05-08-2013, 03:16 AM   #13
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Rather than lightening the oil further you might considered lowering the amount of oil. More air gap increases the compressability of the forks, since air compresses and oil does not. Also, worn bushing probably aren't Triumph's fault. I'd blame that one is on Showa. Bushing will wear quickly if the oil is contaminated. How'd your original oil look?
Hey Kawi, Yeah thats good advice alright. I got to reading my Racetech book and they specify a bigger air gap for the same reasons so will give it a shot and see.

The oil that came out was a bit mucky actually, probably the original oil, I wonder if it was full of rubbish from bedding in etc? Either way, I'll fit some new bushes easy enough.

Cheers

Bill
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:30 PM   #14
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Any update on this? Did you ever get the hyperpro springs?
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Old 05-21-2013, 07:18 AM   #15
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