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Old 09-06-2013, 11:58 PM   #31
marchyman
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No issue with the HB bars... once I shelled out the $6 for a filter tool that fits this filter.
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Old 09-07-2013, 07:33 AM   #32
kindofblue
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emoto View Post
Maybe this is a silly question, but have any of you tried to get an oil filter wrench on your oil filter with these crash bars in place?
The metal one I had for my 08 and 10 gs fit just fine.
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Old 09-07-2013, 08:42 AM   #33
BruceWA
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Have been looking intently for the last week, no mention of the Wunderlich bars, apparently made by HB to Wunderlich's designs. Anyone using these??

Leaning to something in stainless, if I don't run out of money first.
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Old 09-07-2013, 08:18 PM   #34
wabtklr
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HB Bars...

I'm wondering if anyone has done us the favor of tipping the bike over with the HB bars and has anything further to report?


I laid mine over, low speed tight turn in the driveway with too much front brake, lost balance when stopping, HB bars a little scuffed, BD foot pegs a little scuffed and Al Jessies a little scuffed in one corner. First of many scratches to come, no big deal. The bike only will go so far over with the Jessies and HB guards. I am very pleased with Hepco Becker, Kurt at Black Dog talked me into them, I was also looking at TT's. The fit and finish of the HB's are great, I have both upper and lower sets, installation was easy. Money well spent.
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Old 09-07-2013, 08:22 PM   #35
wabtklr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emoto View Post
Maybe this is a silly question, but have any of you tried to get an oil filter wrench on your oil filter with these crash bars in place?
I have the HB bars and a Scott oil filter, no problems.
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Old 09-09-2013, 03:27 PM   #36
AltRider
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Here are some shots of our crash bars. They should be available for shipping in October.
R113-0-1000_Install (5)
R113-0-1000_Install (8)
R113-0-1000_Install (3)

The 1.25 stainless steel Crash Bars offer full protection for the cylinder heads without sacrificing cornering ability.

R113-0-1000_Install (1)

The AltRider design allows removal of the valve cover (and oil filter) for servicing, without any interference from the crash bars.
The crash bars will be available in shot peen silver or powder coat black, and can be pre-ordered here.
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Old 09-09-2013, 05:19 PM   #37
ClearwaterBMW
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I do like your design above and unhappy that the valve cover can be taken off without taking off the crash bars. The price to be paid is that your crash bars certainly protrude a great distance further out from the side of the bike in anyone else's. I have purchased many of your goods in the past and will continue to do so in the future as your company makes very good quality equipment. Thanks for showing this to us on the forum even before they are available to the public for purchase.
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Old 09-09-2013, 08:23 PM   #38
mefly2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emoto View Post
What I find particularly appealing about Touratech bars (that I have on my 2005) is that they are stainless. If you scrape them, they don't rust and look like crap. A little sanding or buffing and you are all set.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emoto View Post
Having now owned a 2005 GS with Touratech stainless crash bars since new, I have had to loosen the crash bars every time I check valve clearance, which means every 6k miles. I can tell you that for that brand, it only adds a few minutes of work and is easy. The new GS only wants valve clearance inspection every 12k miles. Given this fact, I would look at crash bars from the perspective of which ones will offer the most protection to the relatively fragile valve covers. If you can pull the valve covers off without loosening the crash bars, that means that they are not very well protected, in my opinion.
Quote:
Originally Posted by VerdiBaritone View Post

I'm wondering if anyone has done us the favor of tipping the bike over with the HB bars and has anything further to report?


-Chris
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichBMW View Post
OEM for me dude. I personally think they look the best.
I bought the BMW OEM lower crash bars because they were all that was available when I purchased the bike ... kept them because they look good and provide better protection for the valve covers (which is the primary reason for which they were purchased). Other lower cbs allowed more easy oil/filter/valve access, but didn't provide the best valve cover protection.

I bought the Touratech upper crash bars because they were the only ones available that would mate with the OEM lower bars. They took some fiddling to get the proper fit and now look and function perfectly.

Yes, the OEM stainless lowers have been tested in a zero speed fall ... and glad top say that the stainless steel is easily brought back to near new appearance!
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the BMW: R1200GSW, factory low seat & lower crash bars;
Touratech: Upper Crash Bars, big foot, pannier rack, ZegaPro panniers;
Fuzeblock, Rigid Dually D2 + yellow covers; Wunderlich bar risers w/ Q-adjust

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Old 09-10-2013, 04:06 AM   #39
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I have the H&B lower crash bars. Went over the handle bars is a sand trap offroad at about 40km ph. Not even a scratch to the bars or heads! The design is also ideal for stretching your legs out on (on top) on long rides. It looks like some of the other designs might lack this?
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Old 09-10-2013, 05:35 AM   #40
Prodaddy
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Bigger Bars

Just pre-ordered a set of lower crash bars from ALTrider for my GS LC. They are the only 1 1/4" dia. bars out there that I've seen, everything else I looked at were 1". If you drop the bike on asphalt, concrete or any other hard surface, that extra 1/4" is going keep everything just a little bit higher and away from harm. Had a set of Touratech bars on my 2010 GS, a real pain to remove and reinstall every time I did a valve check; lot of spacers and two screws in the front I had to struggle with to get them to line up. Finally pulled them off and ordered a set from ALTrider, much easier to install and the front connection was by means of a 6" solid stainless steel pre-drilled rod. Yesterday dropped that bike on the hard road, the old bars were ALTrider's 1" type and I guarantee you another 1/4" would have been welcome. Plus, they don't have to be removed to check the valves or remove the horizontal oil filter on the LC. This is really going to be a plus if you take it to a dealer for service, if they have to pull the bars it is going to cost...
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Old 09-10-2013, 06:51 AM   #41
mefly2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prodaddy View Post
they don't have to be removed to check the valves or remove the horizontal oil filter on the LC. This is really going to be a plus if you take it to a dealer for service, if they have to pull the bars it is going to cost...
Hmmmm... is there a reason why you would not simply remove (at home / yourself) any lower crash bars interfering with mechanical work before taking in for valve adjustment every 12k miles? That seems like an easy alternative to $95/ hr... YMMV ... it is a trade off on lower crash bars - protecting the valve covers or ease of removing covers for valve adjustment every 12k ... just saying.

Just as important as the tubing diameter is the tubing wall thickness ... and frame attachment points / method ... check those specs as well.
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----------------> jer-
30+ years with RTs...then to F/GS; now *Finally*
the BMW: R1200GSW, factory low seat & lower crash bars;
Touratech: Upper Crash Bars, big foot, pannier rack, ZegaPro panniers;
Fuzeblock, Rigid Dually D2 + yellow covers; Wunderlich bar risers w/ Q-adjust

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Old 09-10-2013, 08:54 AM   #42
twistedthrottle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emoto View Post
Maybe this is a silly question, but have any of you tried to get an oil filter wrench on your oil filter with these crash bars in place?
No Interference with the SW-MOTECH crashbars.

Kev
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Old 09-10-2013, 09:26 AM   #43
Prodaddy
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Sure

Quote:
Originally Posted by mefly2 View Post
Hmmmm... is there a reason why you would not simply remove (at home / yourself) any lower crash bars interfering with mechanical work before taking in for valve adjustment every 12k miles? That seems like an easy alternative to $95/ hr... YMMV ... it is a trade off on lower crash bars - protecting the valve covers or ease of removing covers for valve adjustment every 12k ... just saying.

Just as important as the tubing diameter is the tubing wall thickness ... and frame attachment points / method ... check those specs as well.
I could, but now I won't have to. Plus, my ride to a dealer is a 300 mile round trip, I don't really want to do it without bars...
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Old 09-10-2013, 07:10 PM   #44
BruceWA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mefly2 View Post
I bought the BMW OEM lower crash bars because they were all that was available when I purchased the bike ... kept them because they look good and provide better protection for the valve covers (which is the primary reason for which they were purchased). Other lower cbs allowed more easy oil/filter/valve access, but didn't provide the best valve cover protection.

I bought the Touratech upper crash bars because they were the only ones available that would mate with the OEM lower bars. They took some fiddling to get the proper fit and now look and function perfectly.

Yes, the OEM stainless lowers have been tested in a zero speed fall ... and glad top say that the stainless steel is easily brought back to near new appearance!
Can you provide more info on the installation of the Touratech upper crash bars with the BMW lower crash bars? Sounds like this might be the way I want to go.
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Old 09-10-2013, 07:32 PM   #45
ClearwaterBMW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceWA View Post
Can you provide more info on the installation of the Touratech upper crash bars with the BMW lower crash bars? Sounds like this might be the way I want to go.
there was a bike that left my dealership with just athatcombination and the truth is I didn't like it that much because the color of the bars was slightly different and while the attachment point was adjustable enough I still think touratech upper bars are meant to be with touratech lower bars which cover more of the cylinder had in the first place. this is obviously just my opinion and I wish that I had taken a picture of that to show you but I've seen it both ways and I've chosen to put the touratech on the top and the bottom... for what that's worth which I understand might be very little
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