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Old 03-17-2015, 06:03 AM   #1
dirtybike OP
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Location: Tomkins Cove, NY
Oddometer: 128
1150GS Clutch - worn and engagement moved.

While in Florida last week, my clutch started to fail.
I know that I need to replace the clutch. It slips at high speeds in high gear.
I rode the bike home to NY from FL.
The weird symptom is that the clutch engagement moved to where it is almost against the handlebar. It previously allowed a two finger pull to disengage, with two fingers on the grip.
It is just strange - My first bike with hydraulic clutch, which should be self adjusting. A mechanical clutch should have moved the engagement away from the bar. Would a hydraulic clutch act different? Why?
I'm assuming that I have a secondary problem, but I will not get the time to open things up for a few weeks.
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Old 03-17-2015, 06:10 AM   #2
damurph
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Sounds like the slave is not functioning properly. Fluid in the reservoir?
The good news is you pull the slave while installing a new clutch so replacing is no more time consuming.
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Old 03-17-2015, 06:12 AM   #3
Jim Moore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtybike View Post
While in Florida last week, my clutch started to fail.
I know that I need to replace the clutch. It slips at high speeds in high gear.
I rode the bike home to NY from FL.
The weird symptom is that the clutch engagement moved to where it is almost against the handlebar. It previously allowed a two finger pull to disengage, with two fingers on the grip.
It is just strange - My first bike with hydraulic clutch, which should be self adjusting. A mechanical clutch should have moved the engagement away from the bar. Would a hydraulic clutch act different? Why?
I'm assuming that I have a secondary problem, but I will not get the time to open things up for a few weeks.
You have a slave cylinder failure. That's why the engagement point moved. It has contaminated the clutch plates. That's why the clutch is slipping. The slave cylinder is pretty simple. The clutch is, well ... I'm sorry.
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Old 03-17-2015, 03:34 PM   #4
ragtoplvr
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Boy some non-helpful explanations.

1. Put a dripping wet towel over the paint work and remove the cover over the clutch reservoir on the handlebars. (brake fluid is good paint remover).

2. Is the fluid black? This indicates a failure of the slave cylinder. If the fluid is not black, but is to the top you may have got lucky. Remove some fluid (about 2/3 full) and put lid back on. See if problem is fixed.

3 We have a hall of wisdom. There is information on clutch replacements. Here is one:

http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom...20job.php.html

New clutch always gets new slave.

Good luck

Rod
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Old 03-17-2015, 03:37 PM   #5
Jim Moore
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Originally Posted by ragtoplvr View Post
Boy some non-helpful explanations.

Rod
You're right. I was a little busy. Good job with the explanation.
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Old 03-18-2015, 05:07 AM   #6
dirtybike OP
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Thanks for thr replies. I figured that I had two issues.
Clutch fluid is clean and at proper level.
Time to order parts.
BMW (Bring More Wampum) time!
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Old 03-18-2015, 05:16 AM   #7
AntonLargiader
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As the clutch wears, the diaphragm spring operates in a different part of its stroke and the character of its movement changes. Diaphragm springs are kind of funny that way. Basically, the stack height of the clutch parts has to be within a certain range; too thick or too thin and the clutch won't work right no matter what.
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Old 03-18-2015, 05:17 AM   #8
Steptoe
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The lever movement has moved because the clutch plate is very thin, in fact on the point of complete failure... This causes the slave cylinder to be at the end of it's range, hence why it bites almost at the handlebar..
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Old 03-18-2015, 03:49 PM   #9
dirtybike OP
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Makes sense.
Maybe it will be "only" the cost of the clutch pack and bolts. (and shaft seals).
Changed out the clutch in my R1100RS years ago. Think that it was pressure plate, friction plate, diaphragm spring, back plate(?), and the bolts. Maybe there is a kit.
Clutch alignment tool and a day on the garage floor and I'm set.
Thanks for all the input.
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Old 03-19-2015, 08:53 AM   #10
FatChance
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Of course, check the transmission input shaft splines for abnormal wear while apart. Put a little bit of a moly paste (like Honda Moly 60) on the input splines during reassembly.
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Old 06-27-2015, 03:32 PM   #11
dirtybike OP
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This problem turned out to be a failed input shaft bearing.
Failed by 82k miles. I don't know how that happened. A bearing in 90w GL5 should last forever.
I neglected to describe all of the symptoms in my original post.
When releasing the clutch in gear, it would make a schreeching sound for a second, then quiet down. I assume this was the clutch re-aligning itself with the flywheel.
Losing the engagement seems to be due to the end of the clutch pushrod breaking off. Oddly enough, I heard a metallic ping somewhere in south Florida, and the schreeching stopped.
Although the transmission was not worth rebuilding, I made it home to NYS. Apparently, the crankshaft bearing held the input shaft in alignment.
I'm posting another problem in GSpot - excessive engine oil consumption!
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Old 06-29-2015, 05:31 AM   #12
AntonLargiader
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I've seen several. I consider them 100,000 mile items but yours failed early.
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