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Old 04-17-2013, 02:35 PM   #1
jwalters OP
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Looking for crank seals...

Hi Guys,
I'm looking for crank seals for a '73 Suzuki TC100. I see one left side crank seal on ebay (17 April 2013) but I havn't seen anything for the right side in several weeks. Anyone know of an aftermarket supplier or a generic seal that will fit?
Thanks
Jesse


EDIT: I don't have a service manual, but from the microfiche found online here, maybe there isn't a right crank seal? Could that be?





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Old 04-18-2013, 01:26 AM   #2
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The RH crank seal fits into the disc valve cover. Crank seals will very rarely fail unless a bike has been standing for some while and there is internal corrosion, so very carefully check for main bearing wear before replacing them. Take the dimensions of the old seals if you need to change them, and you should be able to get them from a good bearing supplier.
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:59 AM   #3
jwalters OP
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Thanks for the input TS.

I'm traveling for work right now, but I'm making an intake adapter so I can use my motion pro leak down tester. I've already replaced the piston rings, but that hasn't fixed my very hard starting bike. Rebuilt the carb, but it still only runs with choke at partial throttle. So I'm guessing crank seals next. Until I do the leakdown test though, I'm just guessing.

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Originally Posted by Twin-shocker View Post
The RH crank seal fits into the disc valve cover. Crank seals will very rarely fail unless a bike has been standing for some while and there is internal corrosion, so very carefully check for main bearing wear before replacing them. Take the dimensions of the old seals if you need to change them, and you should be able to get them from a good bearing supplier.
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Old 04-18-2013, 09:27 AM   #4
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Your symptoms say to look for a plugged pilot jet before you get too crazy. Not flowing fuel at idle normally is classic pilot jet failure behavior..... Just buy a new one.... Then if you need a seal try BikeBandit. Suzuki might still have those or take an old one in and have one made. I would still pump the engine though and check for crank/rod play as that engine is old.
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Old 04-18-2013, 09:28 AM   #5
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I've cleaned and replaced the pilot jet with a brand new one. It's not it. Bikebandit doesn't have the seal. That's what I was originally asking for it on this thread because I was only able to find one on Ebay (and I bought it) but I can't find the right side seal anywhere.

Where exactly do you take a crank seal to have made?

EDIT: I've also checked the rotary intake timing and spark timing, as that can be a cuplit on these bikes, but to no avail.

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Your symptoms say to look for a plugged pilot jet before you get too crazy. Not flowing fuel at idle normally is classic pilot jet failure behavior..... Just buy a new one.... Then if you need a seal try BikeBandit. Suzuki might still have those or take an old one in and have one made. I would still pump the engine though and check for crank/rod play as that engine is old.
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Old 04-18-2013, 03:20 PM   #6
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Crank Seal

I've gotten crank seals from Tull bearing in Minneapolis. I just brought the old one in. I don't remember if they were able to find a number on it or if they took measurements.
They have been a VERY helpful local resource.
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Old 04-18-2013, 04:34 PM   #7
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May not be an issue that far down the fuel chain either. How does the petcock and fuel line look? Those old metal tanks are very likely to be rusty inside if you have not cleaned them thoroughly. See if it will run with an attached fuel bottle like the Motion Pro one or an old lawnmower plastic type. If it is rust you may already have plugged up the pilot circuit already just trying to run it. Rust can be a real PIA. Should also show up in your float bowl too.
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:42 PM   #8
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Try Paul Miller, not the cheapest, but what are you gonna do?
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:52 PM   #9
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Tried a different fuel tank too, no luck, plenty of fuel getting to the carb. I've done all the basics and redone the basics twice over, over the past year. After replacing piston rings, rebuilding the carb, new fuel filter, and checking spark timing, it's either crank seals or rotary intake timing. I'm pretty competent with 2 strokes, I just need help sourcing the crank seals. I think ya'll answered my questions. Thanks!

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May not be an issue that far down the fuel chain either. How does the petcock and fuel line look? Those old metal tanks are very likely to be rusty inside if you have not cleaned them thoroughly. See if it will run with an attached fuel bottle like the Motion Pro one or an old lawnmower plastic type. If it is rust you may already have plugged up the pilot circuit already just trying to run it. Rust can be a real PIA. Should also show up in your float bowl too.
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:53 PM   #10
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Excellent! Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Osnabrock View Post
I've gotten crank seals from Tull bearing in Minneapolis. I just brought the old one in. I don't remember if they were able to find a number on it or if they took measurements.
They have been a VERY helpful local resource.
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:54 PM   #11
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Thanks! I'll add him to the roladex. I appreciate it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by vtwin View Post
Try Paul Miller, not the cheapest, but what are you gonna do?
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Old 04-19-2013, 08:49 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Try Paul Miller, not the cheapest, but what are you gonna do?
Take your old seals to the local bearing shop and save loads of money!
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Old 04-23-2013, 12:01 PM   #13
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I have a seal kit for the TS75, check and see if it's the same pns. I don't need it anymore
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Old 04-24-2013, 01:52 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalters View Post
Thanks for the input TS.

I'm traveling for work right now, but I'm making an intake adapter so I can use my motion pro leak down tester. I've already replaced the piston rings, but that hasn't fixed my very hard starting bike. Rebuilt the carb, but it still only runs with choke at partial throttle. So I'm guessing crank seals next. Until I do the leakdown test though, I'm just guessing.
Check crank for main bearing wear, if its ok and the bike hasnt been left standing for a long while, then the seals are almost certainly ok. If its simply a matter of not running, then if you have a good spark and compression, the first thing to try is a squirt of aerosol brake cleaner directly into the carb mouth, ideally while a helper is kicking the bike over. In many cases, when bikes have been standing carbs will be blocked internally, and will not start. Brake cleaner method shows if thats the case, and that you either need a new carb, or maybe try ultrasonic cleaning on the OE carb.
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:48 AM   #15
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I do not agree with Twinshocker in this case. Crankseals that old have pretty much turned to hard plastic at the seal face. If you can replace them ,do so and save yourself hassles later on. May likely be a difference in philosophy as I believe you might as well eliminate that problem BEFORE that ethanol eats them up. Seals do not age gracefully in 2 strokes that have been sitting around for decades.
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