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Old 06-01-2013, 05:41 PM   #91
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Originally Posted by alcanrider View Post
Thank you so much for sharing your ride report. It is outstanding! I really appreciate you showing how much lodging and food costs. I live on a tight budget and would like to go to South America and am just curious how much things cost down there. Thanks again
I enjoy reading all the Alaska stuff you's post over the years....

Ill try to add in some more real world details then...I suppose.

We can ride 100 KM for $1 per bike. A five gallon fuel up is approx $7 I don't really look at the #'s a lot but its not really much of an expense.

Meals: typico almuerzo lunches are $2.50 a plate. Suppers $3-$5

Hotels we stay at are about $12-20 range sometimes only $7...

In Ecuador we average $40 a day maybe for 2 people, 2 bikes.

In Colombia it was about $55- $65

We could do it cheaper but we want to enjoy a bit and not suffer a lot. I would rather eat good & sleep good and go home 2 months sooner, than chisel out and stay longer ...
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Old 06-01-2013, 05:49 PM   #92
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We knew our friend Kon was here in this town , as he arrived with Mr T but had threw his anchor out and his DR650 has been parked for a few days.

His feet were off the ground in a hammock, so we did likewise.

Taking it pretty easy we have a good chat and trade some stories and such since last seeing each other in Banos

Notice the timber support, as it shoots branches & leaves....
Soon suppertime comes and goes,as we head back to our home.

Phsychedelic artwork abounds....
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Old 06-01-2013, 06:01 PM   #93
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A new day upon us, Thorne will relax in the morning, while I am eager to go beach riding on the Sherpa

This is pretty cool ! I dunno. I just like it

I stop part ways up, and have a moment to reflect.....


I was able to go maybe 3km up before hitting a river. I had hardly any fuel( on reserve) so I turned back. I could have went on the highway & crossed the bridge ....

Saw a dead turtle on the way back....

I rode all the way back to the cliffs at the north end....

Stream crossing on the way back

After the salty run down the ocean it was time to wash the bike. The guy at Mi Sol hotel is pretty good. He lit us wash both bikes at the hotel. They really needed a good cleaning.

After the wash job we went and found Korneilius for some lunch.

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Old 06-01-2013, 06:15 PM   #94
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After the lunch we check out the concrete job. Second story floor being poured today as the sun is out.

All the bags of concrete are here, sand , rock....water truck shows up.

We will check back on these guys later, as the sun is out, we need to go make some footprints on the beach.


A bit of ocean swimming sounds good. Been a day or so since we did that...


Mother Nature decides how the patterns in the sand should be...

After the beach session we need to go see the concrete job, maybe have a Pony.

No vehicles on the beach : yikes : never saw that sign earlier...


Looks like the mixer is going full bore, the winch brings the load up top, these guys work pretty fast.
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Old 06-01-2013, 06:27 PM   #95
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Few other scenes:
Jeep going south


French guy who bought his bike in Chile for $1000 and is having a good trip


Cool 100cc Suzuki with tuner pipe sounds real nice in the evening air
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Old 06-02-2013, 06:05 PM   #96
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Another day on the playa. We pop over and see Kon for a visit and relax in the hammocks. It's a tough life out on the Adv trail. Actually we need to rest up as I sense some serious backcountry ADV coming up soon.

Checking out the concrete job, the boys have the site all cleaned up.

A few more backpackers arrive from somewhere.


After lunch we head out to the beach and its a bit cooler & cloudy so might not go swimming but you never know

We help bring a boat up past the high water mark and check out the catch


We sit down for a while and notice a man struggle with a lifeless body near the waters edge...it turns out that the woman is really drunk so a few people lend a hand and get her up to high ground.

We continue on down the beach.

Watch some parasailing for a while then hike back to Kons "house"

It's been a tough afternoon.

Actually some time off from the bikes is good now and again.. Much needed break & what better place to do it.

Back at the hideout, Ken & Ebru show up. The rain got to them so they turned back & are heading into the Andes, after a few days along the coast. We all go out for cheap dinner and some good discussions.

Another day in the life slips into the past
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Old 06-03-2013, 04:36 AM   #97
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Somehow 4 days & 4 nights drift by as we lounge around, eat seafood and go for the occasional swim. If we don't load up and get going we run the risk of staying here permanently


Heading southbound we had a vague plan to stop at Salango for the night, with a zigzag route slightly inland that would include the Jilijapa road that was mentioned earlier in the RR here

Careful walking through that tall grass on the side of the road ! This one was pretty sluggish after having been run over but he wasn't moments earlier.

The ride up over the hill was pretty cool and more coastal riding was scenic further down.

We passed through many small beach towns worthy of a 4 night stay.




We stopped in Salango where the locals were building a huge boat. We bumped into Ken & Ebru there also. We had been staying ahead of the rain, and now by stopping, it was catching up to us. The town was not what we thought, the beach was nice, actually I don't know what we were looking for but the end result was we kept going south. Staying ahead of the rain.




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Old 06-03-2013, 05:03 AM   #98
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We got close to our 4pm cut off time and arrived at Montanita . This place was packed with tourists but still it was the off season here as all the surfers are gone. We pull into the main area and get some stuff at the store before heading a few KM's away to our place for the night. Downtown :


We had a bit of trouble finding decent economical room but a local approached us and said he has a new place. Usually we are leery of these encounters but we followed him.

We were actually talking $$$$ to another hotel owner when the guy pulled up on his dirt bike. We wanted somewhere off the main road away from the loud music party scene that this town seemed to possess

So we are in ! For $15 for two. A hike down the beach and we are back into the town area.


How many days can we hang around here? This will be 7 nights out on the coastline.


It was good to ride today, it was good to uproot from the other beach town.

We hear all kinds of funky music withe the smell of incense in the air, meat sizzling and the thing that gets me is the smell of fresh bread & cinnamon buns

A cheap supper was harder to find, we had to scout around a bit. Another day has passed by....
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Old 06-03-2013, 02:16 PM   #99
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Coming next: escape from the playas, & our unplanned route which IMO is the discovery of our best ADV road in Ecuador so far.....

Stay tuned...cheap gas & a map with inaccurate info...
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Old 06-03-2013, 04:00 PM   #100
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Fantastic RR with great pictures and commentary. Glad John Downs had the link in his report. Continued safe travels.
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Old 06-04-2013, 05:29 AM   #101
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I want to thank you again for an excellent report and a taste of what we will be seeing over the next week or so. We fly to Quito tomorrow and begin the trip on the bikes on Friday!!!! I am very anxious to get the ride started!!!!!!! Looking forward to posting my own pics very soon!!!!

take care and ride safe...............and keep the report coming, you guys are doing a great job!
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Old 06-04-2013, 10:44 AM   #102
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A cool cloudy morning greats us as we wake up in the beach bungalow. A great view down the playa from the 2nd level, we use the propane stove in the kitchen to fix up some coffee & oatmeal .



A quick look at the map shows a road going towards the Guayaquil area from Manglaralto. I see a nice one that will save us some time and won't need to go all the way to Salinas to catch the main highway going east.

At first its looking good. Then a detour into the river bed for a while, we go for about 1 km and I am thinking, this should pop back up on the pavement soon. I stop and talk to a guy walking along and he says it won't take me to
Pedro Carbo and the road doesn't get better.

We turn back and head to the coast. The riding along the ocean is pretty nice.

We end up riding down to Santa Elena and take the main highway to Guayaquil and ride right through the city and out the other side. After clearing the city we see the sun comes out & we stop for $2 lunch plates.



Not many photos of riding the big 4 lane highway. We all know what that's like. Back when we were at Freedom Bike Rentals in Quito the fellows there showed us some routes, some of which I forgot. I should have took some notes, as there was a better route they had on the map for going to/ from the coast.

We were going to stop in El Triunfo for the night but instead made a last minute decision at the intersection and went to Naranjal. We got a $14 hotel with parking on the very 1st try. A short hike brings us to the street food, and we grab some motor oil from the Taliban



Back at the hotel, we do a quick oil change on both bikes, and use an old toothbrush to apply some oil to the chains o-rings. The salty coast line and all the rain had some rust forming on the links.

Now I am looking at the map on the iPod, the paper map, and the GPS . All 3 don't exactly jive. We know the ride from here to Cuenca is a nice one , over the north side of El Cajas National Park. Matt was telling us about it.




Sent from my iPod
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Old 06-04-2013, 11:19 AM   #103
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In the morning, I talk to some locals and show them my map. They say all the routes I am pointing at are paved. They probably are. We see the middle road looks like it may offer better riding to get up into the Andes and connect to the road Matt told us about.


We head south from Naranjal and find a ( the?) paved road heading east. I have a vague feeling of confidence .

It's the kind of roads we like, rural & paved. It's looking good.

We go in a ways and the light misty drizzle tells us to stop & put the rain jackets on. Then a look at what the GPS says & the map tells me that where we intend to go, & where we are going are not the same. We go in further and the road turns to dirt.

I am a bit bummed. We ride in further and after some talk with Thorne we figure the road will take us to Cuenca, but it will be the old dirt road that goes on the south side of El Cajas.
We must have missed a turnoff back there somewhere.


After a while the sun breaks out, we climb up higher & the road really begins to deliver the scenery and adventure discovery. We did not set out to do 100km of backcountry dirt riding. But here we are.


Crossing the face of the slide area on the switchbacks





After the small village of Chaucha we cross another valley , ride over the ridge and leave that section behind, climbing up in altitude. This must be the Cajas area. GPS says 13000+feet.




This was some great high altitude riding, we were a bit chilly but at least it was dry. A few lakes near the road would have been good places to try out some fishing.




Pretty awesome route eh? But wait....there's more !




Sent from my iPod
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Old 06-04-2013, 11:40 AM   #104
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We began to drop down from the high altitude and hit the park entrance (exit for us) at Soldados.. I am thinking that if we were going the other way there would have been a fee to be paid.


Following the river somewhat, Thorne sees a sign that I didn't. Termales ! A soak in the Hotspring will be a perfect way to finish up this awesome route.


We pass over a small bridge and encounter locals netting Tilapia in a pool near the river. The parking area is just a short ways off the main road, and we walk down to the baths.


After a good session in the pool, we head down the road towards Cuenca. There's more developed Hotspring up ahead, but we prefer these local ones that are not all done up for tourists.

The rest of the way was pretty scenic along the river, but the road was pretty bombed out with potholes .


We left Naranjal nice & early, and it took all day to ride the lesser travelled route. I will say this route rivals any of the backcountry riding we did in Colombia. Navigation is pretty simple once you get on the route just stay on the main road. We started south of Naranjal, the junction is just east of Balao / Asuncion area.

Some days you do get the Adventure.
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Old 06-04-2013, 11:48 AM   #105
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I want to thank you again for an excellent report and a taste of what we will be seeing over the next week or so. We fly to Quito tomorrow and begin the trip on the bikes on Friday!!!! I am very anxious to get the ride started!!!!!!! Looking forward to posting my own pics very soon!!!!

take care and ride safe...............and keep the report coming, you guys are doing a great job!
Evil Clown & Whizzerwheel got a good RR going, look forward to yours.
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