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Old 06-16-2013, 12:16 PM   #106
vicmitch OP
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Getting out of large cities in Mexico is not easy. the signs all send you to the toll roads which are prohibitably expensive even by US standards. When I finally got free of the city I was on the wrong road, quite a bit north of the free road to Morelia. My map showed that there was a paved local road to the town of El salto that would meet up with the road I needed. this was paved but riddles with potholes and speed bumps every 100 meters, slow going through dusty small towns with more speedbumps than people. After passing El Salto, I entered farmland with cows crossing the road when they wanted and coyboys hearding them on horseback. Every time I stopped to get pics, they were out of good photo range.

Once I got to the main road it was smooth going till it started to pour. This is the first rain I hit since leaving Nashville! i pull into a gas station with a small restuarant and there were 2 bikes parked outside, a Honda Nighthawk 750 and a Kawasaki Mean Streak. inside I met Laura and Fermin. Laura rode the Mean Streak and is president of the Amazonas M/C and all female club.





They asked me where I was going, I said Morelia. they waid they were going to a "motorcycle party in Uruapan and would I like to join them. When travelling, the answer should always be YES.

Laura led and rode very agressively, making passes that Fermin and I wouldn't a bit of role reversal. 40 or so Kilometers before Uruapan it started to pour again and some streets in hte towns we wnt through flooded and we rode through that. I have no rain gear and at one point was regretting saying yes, but the rain stopped and we got to the Rally. t

There were so many bikes of all sorts, Harleys, Wings BMWs and every maner of japanese cruiser, plenty of sportbikes as well. There was a rockin band playing covers of Queen, Stepphenwolf ond other 70s rock. Lots of Mexicans dressed like pirates and giant bottles of Corona.

It was nice to that there was no bike elitism. harleys parked next to Chinese knockoff bikes and everybody got along.


There was even another Victory there, a 2002 Classic Cruiser.


Some more from the rally







The ADV crowd was even represented


as were the Strom Troopers



I was wandering around looking at bikes and girls when the MC was asking if anyone had come from farther than the state of Nayarit to the rally. I meekly raised my hand and he came over to me and asked where I had come from "nashville, TN USA" he didn;t believe me till I pointed out my bike with TN plates and set up for travelling, he asked to see my licence and confirmed that I had won the longset distance rider at the rally! The prize was a 2 night stay at the Plaza Uruapan Hotel, a 4 star place. Since I had no place to stay anyway, this was fantastic and I'm writing this from my room at the Plaza!

Once I won the contest everyone wanted to talk to me and hear about the trip. These guys had bottles of Rum and Coca Cola and forced me to join them,



The guy on the left rides a Road king, they other guy a BMW F650. The beemer guy is a pediatrician who always wanted to do an adventure trip. I told him he just had to say YES to himself.

All in all a great day.
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Old 06-16-2013, 02:37 PM   #107
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Lookin good Senior Mitch!
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Old 06-17-2013, 08:23 AM   #108
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Some pics from my stroll around Uruapan.





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Old 06-18-2013, 03:11 PM   #109
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Once I won the contest everyone wanted to talk to me and hear about the trip. These guys had bottles of Rum and Coca Cola and forced me to join them,

All in all a great day.
Such brutality!!

Looks like a great trip, keep it up (except the rubber side, keep that down!!)
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:54 PM   #110
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Truly an adventure Mitch, a great memory in the making.
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:33 PM   #111
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Such brutality!!

Looks like a great trip, keep it up (except the rubber side, keep that down!!)
thanks Roomie, are we on for Oswego?

Mitch
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:32 PM   #112
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if I had had wifi yesterday, I would have raved about the roads, but today's roads were even better. Any of the roads I was on during the last 2 days would be roads that riders would go to just to ride and there would be photographers on every corner, I am serious. I have been all over and this is just insane. i rode 7 hours yesterday and 9 today. At some points it was 65 degrees, others over 90 due only to elevation changes.

I left Uruapan around noon and headed towards Morelia then Ciudad Hidalgo. These roads were just what I needed after a couple of days rest. Long sweepers through pine forests at high elevation with a couple of tighter turns requiring a downshift. Felt like the Catskills or Adorondak mtns.



I stopped in a town to get my third headlight of the trip,




Then I got to Zitacuaro and headed south on Rt 51 and the insanity started. Perfectly banked super twisties that kept me in 3rd and 4th gears the whole time dropping me in altituda nad raising the temp. Then I hit this line of cars in some small hot town.


After taking the pic, I slipped past the cars until I got to a Dodge pickup full of cops who made me get in line. in front of the cops were 2 pickups full of flowers then all of the towns residents who were older than 60 or younger than 10 carrying a giant cross. So we wnt at parade pace for almost an hour. On the downhills I shut off my overheating engine. When I finally got free, I had the road to myself till it started getting late and I arrived in Tuzantla around 7pm. This is a hot, hole of a town that advertized itself as the gateway to the Tierras Calientes, the Hot Lands. it was hot, dusty and had one hotel, a hole befiting the town. 200 pesos, no A/C, no wifi, no TV, no hot water, and a ceiling fan that just moed the 100 degree air around slowly. After 4 cold showers, I fell asleep.

Got out of there early and rode on boring roads in hot temps to the bustling Ciudad Altamiano, stopped for directions in the square which I got from a guy who had lived in Atlanta for 6 years. He was in the Black Nissan


Then headed east towards Iguara which had some beautiful views





planning to go there and then to Taxco, but before I got to iguara there was a turnoff to a state road that said Taxco so I made a left, it took me on a road made of cement blocks through a village with donkeys walking in the road. i was about to turn back when I got to a flawless blacktop road that started to go up. this thing was like the tail of the dragon without the shoulders, its curves had curves! I had the road to myself, only 2 cars came the other way. This photo does not do it justice, but look up the road and you will see how it goes.


It led to the little town of Teucizapan, have any ADV riders been here/






After leaving here the road got back to super twisty but the surface was not the new blacktop. There were potholes, landslides and parts of the road washed away as well as some superb parts, you sure had to be on your toes but it was intense. At one point a Chevy pickup veered into my lane avoiding a landslide on his side as i was apexing a left curve. Good thing I have the reflexes of a 20 year old. This is one of the superb parts, I stopped because I figured I was far enough ahead of the VW microbus I had passed.

they have lots of VW microbused that are like the ones we had in the 70's but with water cooled engines

Then I arrived in Taxco where I had planned to spend the night. Taxco is avery old city with colonial buildings right up to the road, which is cobblestone and very tight and curvy.


i found a hostel and asked how much, they said $50 , I said no thanks and tried to find something else but navigating those streets was impossible and a fall waiting to happen so I went on. I had to leave such a lovely place because I didn't think to get a Lonley Planet book
Taxco




So I rode 90 k more of beautiful twisties and 10 k of horrible speed bumps to Cuenavaca. got here at 8pm and went to the square and it was hopping like a Saturday night. This is a nice place and I'll explore

vicmitch screwed with this post 06-19-2013 at 10:58 AM
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Old 06-19-2013, 02:16 AM   #113
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Eh?

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thanks Roomie, are we on for Oswego?

Mitch
The wife and kids want to go to Oswego, so the room will likely be too crowded.
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Old 06-19-2013, 02:37 AM   #114
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Mitch,

I am reminded of a Jewish friend who explained that, "Yes, I eat bacon: I am not THAT Jewish!"

Nesi'a tova

\]ogf

|gg-


I am a Jew who fell in love with and married a Catholic (as did my three siblings, uh, to different Catholics)..........our dietary compromise is we only eat pork on Fridays.
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Old 06-19-2013, 05:53 AM   #115
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WOW.
The roads..
And Taxco.. look amazing.
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Old 06-19-2013, 07:41 PM   #116
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WOW.
The roads..
And Taxco.. look amazing.
I found this video on Youtube of a guy riding these roads on a Harley Fat boy, of course he had to cross the center line on every curve, but you'll get the feel of it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=eOdMGujFTTw

Taxco is also a silver mining town and the place to go if you're into old Volkswagens, seems they feel that 1930's technology is the best thing for steep hills.
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Old 06-20-2013, 09:05 AM   #117
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Quite an adventure Mitch. I am following you every day. Keep it coming.

Alan
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Old 06-21-2013, 08:49 PM   #118
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All I can say is WOW! What an adventure, Mitch, I am looking forward to meeting you and hearing more about your trip. I am familiar with the area you traveled once you hit Matzatlan. Growing up on the border of Mexico my brothers and I used to travel extensively throughout the country. We saw beautiful areas but were in a car with surfboards in the roof or were traveling with others and camping in the mountains around Monterrey. It;s a shame what the cartels have done to the tourist confidence travelling in Mexico. I have told some of my friends what you are doing and even those from Mexico said you were crazy. Here it is the 21st and your last post was from Guadalajara so I'm guessing you won't be through Matamoros/Brownsville for at least another couple of days. Let me know when you get closeor if your plans have changed. Good luck!

THis is Jules (JMA)
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Old 06-21-2013, 09:24 PM   #119
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Spent 2 days in Cuernavaca and I do like the place. Had agreat breakfast at this cool place called Iguana Green


The place has a cool atmosphere with customer comments writen in sharpie on the wall. Found some from all over including one in Hebrew.


Huevos RA LA Mexicana



Comming back from breakfast I met this guy, must be a result of lack of iodine, at least he seemed happy




Went to the square and there were a group of Indians (native) dancing and playing the drums. They could have been Indians in Oklahoma or another part of the US and it makes you realize that it was the Europeans who drew lines on a map, making these Indians, Mexicans.



I liked this one the best



Went back to the hotel and met the new guy at the desk who spoke perfect English. He told me he was from Texas, had come with his parents at age 7 and lived in Dallas. One day he got caught for DUI, got arrested and after pleading guilty, was deported. He was working a 12 hur shift at the hotel, 6 days a week for $100US, he was bitter.

Next day I left for the first half of my ride to Oaxaca. 40 k later I found a place I would have liked to explore more, but did not. Turns out it is the city Juitepec in the national Archeological Park. i saw lots of older Indiana Jones types wandering around and the place had a Bohemian air and this is the only pic I took.



Most of the day was spent riding through non discript cities and straight roads, then the rain came, a deluge and the roads here do not have good drainage so I got soaked, mostly from trucks splashing tons of water on me. The roads started getting better but the rain made it slow going, so I was glad to reach the town of Acatlan where I found a non wi fi hotel to get my wet cloths off in.


When you go to most Mexican states you will find that when people say they lived in the US, most people in a particular state would have lived in the same part of the US. This town sent its people to New York and New Jersey. I had some great steak tacos at a stand run by a guy who had lived in Boro Park, Brooklyn. He understood that I wanted tacos without pork.

After sleeping late, I left Acatlan towards Oaxaca, 235km away. After 2 hrs, I stopped for lunch in some little town. The restaurant had a sign saying good, economical food, sounded good to me


There was one meal offered, cream of spinach soup, a bean and cheese tostada, rice, salad, a pitcher of lemonade, chicken in mole sauce and rice pudding. Total cost $3.50 US. The people in this town were so friendly and polite. Each person that came into the restaurant said Buen Provecho to me, which I think means Bon Apetit. This is also the first town I saw using these for taxis


After lunch the roads got unbeleivable again, 100 km of switchbacks rising to some ungodly altitude, unfortunately the rain came back and I had to slow my pace. The road just kept rising and rising, when I thought it was going down, it just rose more, cold and wet with streams of muddy water cascading across the road. Beautiful views though





Finally the sun came through and Oaxaca came into view and I found a hostel with an international crowd and here I am.
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Old 06-21-2013, 09:41 PM   #120
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All I can say is WOW! What an adventure, Mitch, I am looking forward to meeting you and hearing more about your trip. I am familiar with the area you traveled once you hit Matzatlan. Growing up on the border of Mexico my brothers and I used to travel extensively throughout the country. We saw beautiful areas but were in a car with surfboards in the roof or were traveling with others and camping in the mountains around Monterrey. It;s a shame what the cartels have done to the tourist confidence travelling in Mexico. I have told some of my friends what you are doing and even those from Mexico said you were crazy. Here it is the 21st and your last post was from Guadalajara so I'm guessing you won't be through Matamoros/Brownsville for at least another couple of days. Let me know when you get closeor if your plans have changed. Good luck!

THis is Jules (JMA)
Hey Jules, the travel addiction has sent me to Oaxaca, this will be my southernmost point and I will start heading north. I will PM you on here so please pay attention to your PMs in the upper rhs of any ADVrider page when you are logged in.
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