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Old 04-15-2013, 06:41 AM   #1
visionary OP
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15 days to roadworthyness EX250

I bought a crashed 2007 Ninja 250 approx 4 months ago with the intention of fixing it up into a cafe style bike. Unfortunately the EX needs a fair bit of work.

I bought it looking like this. Needs a lot of work and i'm not an accomplished mechanic by any stretch of imagination







It have 4500 miles on it but the PO had run into the back of a parked car at speed. He survived with a a few fractures but decided he would stick to racing rice cars.

My original touring rig was a Yamaha Vision that had been across Nor-USA and Canada. I didn't envision having the opportunity for long tours anymore so regretfully sold her to a very passionate biker getting back into it.


visionary screwed with this post 04-15-2013 at 11:51 AM Reason: pics updated
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:04 AM   #2
visionary OP
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The Plan

I need to kit this bike out for touring over the next 15 days with a budget under $2000 in total

Work is taking me to San Fransisco from June to August. I need to be in Sf by May 25th.

I've never really toured on a 250 so I'm aiming to leave by May 15.

The biggest PITA has been reinstalling new seals in the fork lowers. They just refuse to go in. I am considering taking them to a shop with a press and seeing if that works.

I need to
- Wire up the new headlight
- Figure out a way to mount the OEM gauges on the triple tree
- Modify the triple to accept 7/8 wide handlebars
- Rewire the tail area with proper turn signals
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Old 04-16-2013, 08:14 PM   #3
16VGTIDave
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Old 04-17-2013, 05:34 AM   #4
Randy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by visionary View Post
The biggest PITA has been reinstalling new seals in the fork lowers. They just refuse to go in. I am considering taking them to a shop with a press and seeing if that works.

I need to
- Wire up the new headlight
- Figure out a way to mount the OEM gauges on the triple tree
- Modify the triple to accept 7/8 wide handlebars
- Rewire the tail area with proper turn signals
Not sure how you're attempting to install seals, but you will need to buy, borrow, or make a seal driver. I've installed a few fork seals and have always made my own driver out of the correctly sized (and perhaps modified) piece of PVC pipe. Once you get the ID and OD correct on the seal end, just cut it to length so that it extends longer than the fork tube and allows you to tap it at the top and drive the seal in evenly. Lightly lube the seal with fork oil before installing it and be careful when you make the driver so that it contacts the correct area and doesn't damage the seal.

Headlight should be fairly straightforward.

Mount the handlebars first, then you can use that as a basis to fab a mounting bracket for the gauges. Or you could use whatever bracket you use to mount the headlight. It's just a matter of getting started mounting things, looking at it, and working up solutions as you go. If you want to mount conventional bars, you'll need to drill the top clamp to accept risers of some sort. Pretty easy to source. Probably cheaply on ebay.

Rewiring and installing rear turn signals should be pretty simple once you get started and figure out what to mount and where.

Good luck with your project.

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Old 04-17-2013, 06:41 AM   #5
TonyKZ1
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Hello, You might also check out the Ninja 250 sites http://forums.ninja250.org/ and http://www.ninjette.org/ as they'll have a lot of the info you're looking for.
Tony
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Old 04-17-2013, 09:56 AM   #6
visionary OP
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Thanks guys,

I'm hoping to be on the road shortly. Had a set of bar clamps off an XS400 lying around. heading over to a buddy's shop to try and find a good way to mount them



major f*k up on my end - Whilst trying the PVC method to get the seals in, found a couple of rusty spots in the chrome.

No problem just wetsanded for a bit with 600 right? No such luck, corrosion goes much too deep so I'm looking around to source some fork tubes

If this is the biggest setback - i'm OK with that

visionary screwed with this post 04-17-2013 at 09:57 AM Reason: added pic
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:10 AM   #7
visionary OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyKZ1 View Post
Hello, You might also check out the Ninja 250 sites http://forums.ninja250.org/ and http://www.ninjette.org/ as they'll have a lot of the info you're looking for.
Tony
Thanks Tony, been a lurker there a bit - maybe time to start posting
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:34 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by visionary View Post

major f*k up on my end - Whilst trying the PVC method to get the seals in, found a couple of rusty spots in the chrome.

No problem just wetsanded for a bit with 600 right? No such luck, corrosion goes much too deep so I'm looking around to source some fork tubes

If this is the biggest setback - i'm OK with that
I know you're on a budget, but I also know you're on a schedule. Often times those two things can be at odds...

So, if you can't find a set of clean used tubes quickly, you can buy new, cheaper than OEM, from Forks by Frank.
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Old 04-17-2013, 02:25 PM   #9
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I may have to resort to that - Thanks for the link Randy
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Old 04-17-2013, 03:02 PM   #10
Jimmy the Heater
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That is a damn short timeline. I wish you luck!

Don't worry a bit about touring on the 250 though. I did a 3500 mile trip on mine and it was a blast.

One word of advice, take those stock tires and throw them back in to the deepest pit of hell where they belong. I have used the Kenda 671, Avon Roadrider and Pirelli MT75 and they totally change the character of the bike.

MT75 is very soft and don't last long but they are incredibly grippy. The others are more of a touring tire.
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Old 04-17-2013, 03:58 PM   #11
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Clean the pits with naval jelly ( to get all of the rust out), follow up with soap and water, dry with a heat gun, allow to cool, fill the pits with a metal-filled epoxy, and wet sand until smooth. The repair will hold up for years.
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Old 04-17-2013, 04:41 PM   #12
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I've done a lot of fork seals, and have always used electrical tape as my seal driver.

You wrap it around the fork tube a few inches above the seal till it is layered 1/8 to 1/4" thick. Then the fork tube is your driver. When the seal is seated just pull the tape off. Beats the heck out of monkeying with seal drivers or PVC.
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Old 04-17-2013, 07:10 PM   #13
Randy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k-moe View Post
Clean the pits with naval jelly ( to get all of the rust out), follow up with soap and water, dry with a heat gun, allow to cool, fill the pits with a metal-filled epoxy, and wet sand until smooth. The repair will hold up for years.
Quote:
Originally Posted by doorman View Post
I've done a lot of fork seals, and have always used electrical tape as my seal driver.

You wrap it around the fork tube a few inches above the seal till it is layered 1/8 to 1/4" thick. Then the fork tube is your driver. When the seal is seated just pull the tape off. Beats the heck out of monkeying with seal drivers or PVC.

DAMN! Two excellent ideas back to back!

The epoxy filled pit idea may not be what I'd do for a full on restoration, but for an expedient repair, it seems custom tailored for this situation.

The tape "seal driver" idea sounds entirely plausible too, and definitely easier for sizes that aren't a direct and easy standard PVC pipe diameter. It really depends on the tube diameter though. Some forks work just fine with a length of standard PVC pipe with little to no modification needed. Still, for those that don't work well with standard pipe sizes, the tape idea sounds great!


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Old 04-17-2013, 10:08 PM   #14
JerryH
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PO must have barely clipped the car. If he had hit it dead center, the forks would be bent badly, and the front wheel would be against the engine. The frame would probably also be bent. The Ninja 250 frame is not that strong, it has no downtubes, the engine is a stressed member. Have you checked for frame/fork damage yet?
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:14 AM   #15
visionary OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doorman View Post
I've done a lot of fork seals, and have always used electrical tape as my seal driver.

You wrap it around the fork tube a few inches above the seal till it is layered 1/8 to 1/4" thick. Then the fork tube is your driver. When the seal is seated just pull the tape off. Beats the heck out of monkeying with seal drivers or PVC.
That's a great idea - I'm gonna give it a shot next time
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