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Old 05-11-2013, 05:08 PM   #16
Twilight Error
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Originally Posted by andrewsclues View Post
Thanks for the info Moto and Medic... when I do get a AmpMeter that works, what is the max drain or draw allowable?
I prefer Fluke multimeters, I use a 289 at work and have a 73 in my toolbox. There are plenty of decent options for the home mechanic, but Fluke is generally considered the standard.

An acceptable draw depends on the size of the battery. The ECU sips from the battery, that load takes much longer to drain the battery than your 5 day timeline, which suggests you're seeing an amp or so leaking somewhere. It could be as simple as a relay coil that's remaining energized.
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Old 05-11-2013, 05:35 PM   #17
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If you're seeing more than a .2 amp draw, find the culprit. An easy way to start eliminating circuits is with the ammeter (no P in ammeter ) connected, as per TE, start pulling fuses. When the draw goes away, you've found your suspect circuit. Using a wiring diagram (you DO have a manual, right?) the draw will be easier to find from there.
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Old 05-11-2013, 07:04 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motomedic View Post
If you're seeing more than a .2 amp draw, find the culprit. An easy way to start eliminating circuits is with the ammeter (no P in ammeter ) connected, as per TE, start pulling fuses. When the draw goes away, you've found your suspect circuit. Using a wiring diagram (you DO have a manual, right?) the draw will be easier to find from there.
will do.... i do have a manual. thanks!
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Old 05-13-2013, 05:56 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motomedic View Post
If you're seeing more than a .2 amp draw, find the culprit. An easy way to start eliminating circuits is with the ammeter (no P in ammeter ) connected, as per TE, start pulling fuses. When the draw goes away, you've found your suspect circuit. Using a wiring diagram (you DO have a manual, right?) the draw will be easier to find from there.
That should be more like 0.010A or less. 0.2A will drain a moto battery in a matter of days.
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:05 AM   #20
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That should be more like 0.010A or less. 0.2A will drain a moto battery in a matter of days.
ECM memory, clock, etc. .01 amps? yeah right. Maybe on a older points equipped bike w mechanical gauges. Checking the manual is the best way to determine how much it should be pulling w ign off.
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:46 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Motomedic View Post
ECM memory, clock, etc. .01 amps? yeah right. Maybe on a older points equipped bike w mechanical gauges. Checking the manual is the best way to determine how much it should be pulling w ign off.
You're right, as a matter of fact. I was WAY TOO HIGH on my estimate. I just checked a modern fuel injected, digital cluster bike. 0.000217 amps. (that's 0.2 miliamps) It actually varied from 0.000210 to 0.000268a. Modern cars with 30+ control units draw 0.01 to 0.025 amps. And don't try to tell me my meter isn't working right. Go check a modern bike for yourself.
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:39 PM   #22
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For the record Mr. Yamarocket, I DO check modern bikes all the time. I've been a motorcycle mechanic (notice the username perchance?) for about 20 years now.

I really wasn't trying to be specific on exactly how much a bike draws. We're trying to troubleshoot here, not quantify the exact draw. Sure, my modern KTM 950 (or is a '04 not "modern" enough?) probably draws less than .01 amps, but do I really care? No. If the battery goes dead, I start looking for issues. I know there's going to be some draw for the clock, etc, but I'm more interested in finding a short, not worrying about a milliamp or two here and there. .2 amps is a decent GENERAL starting point, and usually within a cheap meter's resolution. No offense to the OP's tools, his meter isn't exactly a Fluke. With an average moto battery being around 14 amp/hours, a .2 amp draw will kill that battery in about 70 hours, give or take a few minutes (or in your case, seconds )

In hindsight, I suppose my sarcastic remark about points bikes was a little off the cuff, but again, we're troubleshooting a bike on the internet, not the lab. My bad.

Once again, every manufacturer is a little different. That's why the manual, which I do believe I mentioned, is the best reference for how much the bike should draw with the key off.
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Old 05-14-2013, 05:46 AM   #23
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Edit... Not going to argue

Yamarocket630 screwed with this post 05-14-2013 at 07:41 AM
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Old 05-15-2013, 05:01 AM   #24
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Update... I picked up a new meter at Home Depot... a Klein MM200. And the ammeter function works. I am on the right track regarding that.

The bike's battery would not charge above 11.5 volts. I have two, older and cheaper chargers. One told me the battery was fully charged and the other gave me an error light. Could both chargers be faulty? Possible, but I am leaning toward a bad battery. I returned the battery to the store where I bought it and they happily gave me a new one.

I won't have time to connect the battery and look for "parasitic draw" (I learned a new phrase!) until Friday or Saturday.

Again thanks everyone for your help. Electrical stuff is really Greek to me so it is really appreciated.

More updates to come...
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Old 05-15-2013, 02:40 PM   #25
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There was a recall on the '08 and '09 model year Bandit 1250's like mine (good choice of bike by the way). There is some info on it here: http://www.motorcycle.com/news/suzuk...les-90452.html

According to that article, Bandits made from July '07 on had the defective part so your bike may have somehow got the bad part depending on your build date. If you find a parasitic draw, you might want to check the regulator/rectifier to see if it is the culprit.
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Old 05-15-2013, 05:18 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by BossMaverick View Post
There was a recall on the '08 and '09 model year Bandit 1250's like mine (good choice of bike by the way). There is some info on it here: http://www.motorcycle.com/news/suzuk...les-90452.html

According to that article, Bandits made from July '07 on had the defective part so your bike may have somehow got the bad part depending on your build date. If you find a parasitic draw, you might want to check the regulator/rectifier to see if it is the culprit.
I will definitely check the rectifier.... that's some good info.
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Old 05-18-2013, 08:56 AM   #27
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I just installed the new battery.... reads 12.71 v on the meter.

There is 0.014 amps of key-off parasitic draw when tested. I cannot find the spec in the bandit shop manual as to what this reading should ideally be. From reading comments from you guys, 0.014A should be OK.

Anyone disagree?
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Old 05-18-2013, 11:18 AM   #28
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.014 should be okay as far as parasitic draw. Have you checked the rectifier?
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Old 05-18-2013, 11:24 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by andrewsclues View Post
I just installed the new battery.... reads 12.71 v on the meter.

There is 0.014 amps of key-off parasitic draw when tested. I cannot find the spec in the bandit shop manual as to what this reading should ideally be. From reading comments from you guys, 0.014A should be OK.

Anyone disagree?
.014A is fine, it should take a month in cold weather to pull the battery down like you're experiencing. The next suspect is your charging system, start with the R/R, those are easy to replace and less expensive than a new alternator.
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Old 05-18-2013, 12:29 PM   #30
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.014A is fine, it should take a month in cold weather to pull the battery down like you're experiencing. The next suspect is your charging system, start with the R/R, those are easy to replace and less expensive than a new alternator.
Charging system seems fine... 13.8v at idle, doesn't go above 14.3 when I rev the throttle. I'm hoping it was a bad battery. I will test voltage tomorrow morning to see if I lost any juice in the battery.
thanks.
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