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Old 05-19-2013, 10:19 AM   #16
Gentri in GA
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Fun little ride. Hope to hit some of that myself this Fall!
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Old 05-19-2013, 11:26 AM   #17
woodschip
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KLRistas

From all us high-class fellow KLRistas,thanks for sharing your adventures and nice pics with us ! Glad to see you are upholding our high standards by exhibiting some impressive "top speed" numbers. Must say I am very envious of your travels. RIDE ON Brother KLRista.
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Old 05-19-2013, 02:39 PM   #18
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Fun little ride. Hope to hit some of that myself this Fall!
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Originally Posted by woodschip View Post
From all us high-class fellow KLRistas,thanks for sharing your adventures and nice pics with us ! Glad to see you are upholding our high standards by exhibiting some impressive "top speed" numbers. Must say I am very envious of your travels. RIDE ON Brother KLRista.
Thanks, guys!

I'm just now getting around to uploading pics from my dslr and will fill-in some of my prior posts with a few images from that. Then if some of my night shots from El Punto Coyote look decent I'll recommence the story with those and move forward.

I seriously considered using a milk crate on back, but the chair and tripod would have been problematic. Actually, maybe not. Perhaps if the chair and pod were strapped on ahead of the crate, then I'd have had room for my other junk in the crate itself and it would maybe have been less of a hassle to get to stuff. Maybe next time..

John
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Old 05-19-2013, 05:11 PM   #19
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All night storms roll across the northern horizon, but mostly there are stars above those distant clouds and lightning..



Just a wee little bit of lightning visible in this one, near the bottom of the frame..



In spite of my late night, I'm up ahead of the sun and lay in the hammock listening to the sounds of the desert as it rises..





Breakfast in the ghost town and an extended visit with one of my hosts rule the morning before I head off to the park. I'm thinking I might get a tent site in the Chisos Basin for the night, as today is going to be a hot one..



Tent site number 01 is mine, mine, MINE I tell you!



Nice views..





John
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Old 05-19-2013, 06:07 PM   #20
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I stowed a bunch of stuff in the bear box at the camp site, then beat feet for the border..



At the crossing, a border agent confirms that I've got everything I need to get back across legally and reminds me that the border closes at 6 pm, then points to the door. Outside is a trail to the river..





This is what I've been waiting for.





The wind is a bit of a problem, but we get it going and by now I'm pretty jazzed about the whole endeavor.



The choices are to walk to town, ride a burro or take a truck. I don't know how much time any of this is going to take, and it's late afternoon already, so I opt for the truck..





It is indeed a different world..



Downtown..



Earnesto, my self-appointed guide, insisted upon a visit to the trinket store to buy some of the local wares. I dropped $6 on a bracelet then convinced them I was out of money. For all intents and purposes I was. Here's Earnesto and the two girls running the shop..







It's time to return, or I think it is, and we head back to the border..



At the crossing I get to meet Victor, who would sing at the opening of Boquillas Canyon in years passed. It was nice to be able to shake his hand and say hello.



My chariot awaits..



As quickly as I'm out of the boat another is aboard and the cycle continues..





Welcome home..





A short walk back up the bank to the border station..





Walk inside..



Once inside, the agent scans my passport and I'm planted in front of a kiosk that's transmitting a live video stream to somewhere official.



Soon enough I'm cleared and it's time to head out to the lot and figure out where to next..

John
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Old 05-19-2013, 07:19 PM   #21
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Very cool ride. I love that part of the country.
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http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=851060 ... A desert rat explores the south.
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Old 05-19-2013, 08:01 PM   #22
mbabc
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Woohoo! John's back in Big Bend. Wait while I go get a samich.


Looking forward to more.
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Old 05-19-2013, 09:12 PM   #23
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great report. I'd like to do part of this ride this year.
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Old 05-20-2013, 10:21 AM   #24
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Very cool ride. I love that part of the country.
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Woohoo! John's back in Big Bend. Wait while I go get a samich.


Looking forward to more.
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great report. I'd like to do part of this ride this year.
It's one of my favorite parts of the world, for sure. Definitely worth the visit, and bring that passport!

John
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Old 05-21-2013, 05:31 PM   #25
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My stomach rules my world. It's back up to the Chisos Basin for a burger and some raspberry cobbler a la mode..





Of course, the getting there is a nice ride..









I settle into camp for a bit while figuring out what the heck I want to do. I think I may have just laid down and gone to sleep after this. I really don't recall at this point.



Especially since my next picture is this..



It had been a windy night. The campground host estimated 50 mph gusts and I don't doubt it. Clouds were wafting over the mountains at a pretty good clip still this morning..





I do what any reasonable person would do and go for a ride..









John
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Old 05-21-2013, 05:32 PM   #26
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I grab brunch at La Posada Milagro again today, and again I have company of both the human kind and the canine kind..



There has been talk of big doin's at Lajitas this afternoon. After 9/11 the borders were tightened and in many places families were torn apart. This happened on both our northern and our southern borders. Families on the Mexico side of the Rio Grande at Lajitas have a 5+ hour drive through bad roads to get to the nearest border crossing. As one can imagine, with their economy destroyed by the closure and subsequent isolation travel like that is a significant hardship. So one of the locals (Jeff Haislip) did something about it. As luck would have it, Lajitas is just down the road and I've got a motorcycle..

The story is here:

http://terlinguamusic.com/lajitas-vo...om-both-sides/

I took a few snaps before things got going, shot a bit of video as the first fellow came across and then for a while was the guy in the river taking group pictures with a dozen or so of other peoples' cameras.

Getting things setup on the south bank..



Both sides, so very close yet worlds apart..





It's a perfect day to be on the river..



People gathering on the north side of the river..









Some shoddy cell phone video edited in-camera for your viewing pleasure..





It was an exceptionally emotional event. As the families met in the river and people were handing me their cameras to take pictures of the group in the river, there wasn't a dry eye around. It was an honor to be a part of it. I only wish I'd taken a group picture for myself, but it didn't even occur to me to do so at the time. At any rate, it was wonderful to witness such a joyful reunion.

The ride back to Terlingua was good as it began to rain a bit..



Back at the porch, I hung out for a bit with banjo player Jeff Brady and enjoyed reading some of the ads posted there..







Eventually friends from El Punto Coyote show up and we grab dinner at The Starlight Theater. I ride back to the Chisos Basin in the dark (slowly) and watch a rattlesnake cross the road for a couple of minutes before moving on. All in all a great day for the heart and soul.

Today's numbers..



John
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Old 05-21-2013, 05:45 PM   #27
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I am so glad that Boquillas is once again accessible to us . That town depends on Yankee $$ to survive. One of my favorite memories from years gone by was of going over in a row boat and then drinking a cold Beer with a local in a run down bar. He is probably gone but the memory lives on.
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Old 05-21-2013, 06:02 PM   #28
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This is what it felt like it looked like..



But this is how it really looked..



I've put a bunch of miles on the KLR this week. No mechanical issues. It's treated me well and today's the day we need to start heading home..



First thing I need to do is excavate the tent. 50 mph gusts Friday night convinced me to fill it with rocks as the night progressed..





Friday night had the wind and Saturday night had rain. I was covered though, so no problem..



Minutes later I'm mostly ready to get geared-up and head to breakfast..



Up at the lodge restaurant, I run into friends from work on a student-experience trip. We'd discussed sights to see in the area and some general planning, but I didn't know if I'd actually cross paths with the group or not so it was nice that I did..



They head off on the Lost Mine Trail and I head off down the highway..

The office..



I made another new friend along the road..



Heading east, the winds were beating me silly. At times I could only make around 60 mph. Finally I had to backtrack due to an expected-to-be-open-but-it-was-closed-gas station and with the tailwind I hit 90 mph without even trying. Hard to say what the surface wind speed was, but it was significant..



Night finds me just west of Fort Worth, having made some respectable miles..

Monday it's just a short run up through OK City to Tulsa where the Jeep and trailer wait..

Bike is loaded and I start for Indiana..



The Spotwalla track..



John
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Old 05-21-2013, 06:28 PM   #29
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I am so glad that Boquillas is once again accessible to us . That town depends on Yankee $$ to survive. One of my favorite memories from years gone by was of going over in a row boat and then drinking a cold Beer with a local in a run down bar. He is probably gone but the memory lives on.
Yeah, I need to plan to spend a full day or two there on my next visit. Riding a burro into town is on my short-list and maybe spending the night with the locals. I know it's an odd thing, but I enjoyed shaking Victor's hand a great deal. It was an iconic moment for me, for reasons I'm not certain I understand.

John
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Old 05-21-2013, 06:41 PM   #30
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John,

I really enjoyed your report. Looks like a great ride. I had no idea about Boquillas, I'll have to check it out.
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