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Old 05-20-2013, 04:46 AM   #16
_cy_
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Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Oddometer: 5,033
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bowser View Post
I have looked at this thread with interest, I have had the odd flat battery and I am looking to try and solve the problem.
I have a GIT bash plate which has a compartment for a tool roll, I am looking at the possibility of adding and extra battery in there and running in parallel, has anyone else tried adding a battery in that location, any problems?
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenD View Post
I lost my battery in Iran and replaced with 2 sealed 7.2 amp battery's used in alarm cabinets. worked fine for at least a year or so.
Quote:
Originally Posted by biggus View Post
I have seen a few of those type batteries around and was curious if they would work since they are not specifically for motorcycles. Bouncing/shock, heat and water are not what these type of batteries were intended to be used in.

I have seen a 12 volt, 20ah battery like this that would fit but was not sure if it would hold up or blow up.
Has anyone else have comments on this type of battery?
your KTM charging system was originally designed to support lead acid batteries. which includes wet PB, AGM and Gel. 13.8v to 14.2v is the range needed to support PB.

drawback to permanent magnet charging systems is when your RR goes out. 17v+ goes to your battery killing it. recommendations is to install a small waterproof voltmeter. you will still have to replace your RR. but your battery will be saved.

it's possible to operate bike with RR out. but limiting charging to for short periods by disconnect wiring, operating on battery only. during bulk phase of charging, voltage too high will not hurt battery.

recommendations is go with AGM ... stay away from batteries with too small Amp hour, especially tiny LiFePO4, like Shorai LFX18. if you must have LiFePO4, go with largest LiFePO4 you can stuff into space available, which would be EarthX ETX36 (14AH actual)

LiFePO4 is fully charged at 14.6v ... normal discharge range is 13.3v to 12.8v ... a very flat discharge curve. this is why LiFePO4 mates almost perfect to 12v charging systems designed to support PB.

Gel should not be charged over 14.2v, so will work fine on your bike's charging system. but most automotive chargers puts out 14.8v or so and will kill it.

those sealed 12v batteries used for alarms, etc are usually Gel.

visit my motorcycle battery testing thread for more info ... which has the largest amount of motorcycle LiFePO4 info on the WWW.

link in sig ...

_cy_ screwed with this post 05-20-2013 at 04:56 AM
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Old 05-20-2013, 05:24 AM   #17
StevenD
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Joined: Aug 2005
Location: Holland, Amserdammed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggus View Post
I have seen a few of those type batteries around and was curious if they would work since they are not specifically for motorcycles. Bouncing/shock, heat and water are not what these type of batteries were intended to be used in.

I have seen a 12 volt, 20ah battery like this that would fit but was not sure if it would hold up or blow up.
Has anyone else have comments on this type of battery?
I used them only in lack of something better. I think using 2 was required even to get enough juice for starting out of them, using a 20ah would probably not start the bike, using 3 2ah's probably will.
I sold the bike so dont know how long they lasted in the end, but I'd say a stock yuassa is far better than these.
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Old 05-20-2013, 09:06 AM   #18
_cy_
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Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bli55 View Post
Do you mean to run on battery power only until it's almost drained, then reconnecting (broken, overcharging) RR?
I could see this working if you just idle your bike and the voltage shouldn't be high at all...

Question is how long would it take and how to know that your battery is charged enough to keep going???
note original posts was for someone broken down in Thailand with a bad RR and dead Shoria LiFePO4 battery.

to understand how this works .. it's necessary to understand basic battery charging phases.

during bulk phase of charge, battery will basically absorb what ever amps is thrown at it. during this phase, voltage is not important. until battery has absorbed the bulk of charge and current tapers down. until full charge is reached. during final absorption phase of charging voltage is very important and should not exceed 14.2v. that's when you need to disconnect charging wire.

this is for emergency use only ... like when one is stuck in the middle of no-where. if you allow charging system with broken RR to only charge during bulk phase... then disconnect charge wires only. then operate bike on battery power alone.. repeat charge cycle ... hopefully will limp bike to a service point.

install a volt meter on your bike if you have not done so already...
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