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Old 05-16-2013, 05:39 PM   #1
5 speed OP
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Location: Orlando Florida
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Struggling with my clutch

Just not really right. I installed an new Oberon Slave and spacer. Completely flushed and rebuilt master cylinder. I was surprised that I had to crank the lever adjuster all the way in,or it wasnt really working. It releases really late, where the lever is almost all the way out. do not like that, like it more mid way. Is that adjustable?

The other thing is it creeps real bad. I still dont like my jetting (kind of fat down low) and when it not fully warmed if I come to a light and dont put it in neutral it cuts off. Also I used one of those syringes and filled from the slave up so there is no air in the line. Should be fine, right?

Using 5 weight fork oil, by the way.

Also, I notice when I take off I hear a high pitched noise when loaded and its if it was car I would say its the throw out bearing.

So anything we can do with these issues? Glad I have a slave that mostly works but in some cases which it was an adjustable cable.

Please advise.

5 speed screwed with this post 05-16-2013 at 05:44 PM
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Old 05-16-2013, 06:09 PM   #2
rossguzzi
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Measure all plates in clutch for spec, move innermost steel if grooved from belvere(?) spring, deglaze steel plates with wet and dry, check for warped plates, must have later model clutch rod, check oil jet for blockage and for me going back to .03 jet was better than the bigger one.
Good luck.
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Old 05-16-2013, 06:52 PM   #3
brents347
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Agreed. Clogged clutch jet tends to cause draggy clutch and noise. Larger clutch jet = more oil to clutch and harder to clog but it makes the bike harder to get into neutral when stopped. You have to learn to shift into neutral while still rolling.
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Old 05-16-2013, 07:42 PM   #4
5 speed OP
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wow so its a whole clutch rebuild it sounds like. been holding off messing with it because I would want to rebuild, maybe put a rekluse in, etc. Just don't have the time or the funds. Fair to say then its OK to ride as it is, just causing wear on the plates and being annoying I guess. Much rather have it like it is then have it down again right now.

5 speed screwed with this post 05-16-2013 at 07:50 PM
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Old 05-17-2013, 12:21 AM   #5
Chewy750
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was there a problem before you changed the slave and rebuilt the master cylinder? If there wasn't then you need to check those first before you try anything else.
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Old 05-17-2013, 12:48 AM   #6
gefr
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What kind of rebuilt did you perform on your master cyl?

Did you replace the old part, installing a new OEM one?
I would recommend 2,5wt fork oil for the hydraulic activation in the system.
rossguzzi suggestions are all great and don't need more that 3/4 h to perform. Make sure your central nut is not loose, cause they tend to go loose sometimes.
If everything else doesn't work, you could be in for new clutch plates. What is your milliage?
Cheers.
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Old 05-17-2013, 04:34 AM   #7
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HI there and thanks for the replies. I have 17K on the bike. Yes, the clutch has been dragging. The throwout bearing sound is new. To be honest I have never messed with the clutch at all on any bike. Would have to drain the oil and is there a gasket on the clutch cover side?

Gefr, The central nut, does it require a special socket (thin wall) or something? Where is the clutch jet, will it have the size stamped on it and do I just need to clean it out or actually replace with another size?
I was just figuring that if I actually disassembled it i might as well be putting new clutch plates in or its not worth messing with.

What would I need, just the friction plates or would it come as a kit with the metal as well? Stock replacement make sense or is there something else preferred? Anything special on the springs that has to be done or replaced? Someone asked about the clutch rod, my bike is an 05, dont believe its a 5.5.
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Old 05-17-2013, 08:00 AM   #8
brents347
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You do not have to drain the oil to check/mess with the clutch. Just lean the bike over on the kickstand or further and the oil stays in the motor. The small clutch cover gasket is reusable. I would not replace any plates until things have been inspected and you check the thickness of all the old plates. Also, there is a special order to the clutch plates on these so pay attention when removing them!

Lastly, I can't recall what bike, but some other bike (Kawi street bike maybe?) uses our same clutch plates and they are much cheaper. Start searching the O.C. and you'll find it.
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Old 05-17-2013, 10:02 AM   #9
gefr
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Replacement parts by EBC

There are also VESRAH and RIHNO. I even found a chinese no name pack.
Start with an inspection and see how it goes from there. The central nut is 32mm IIRC. You will need a socket as it is kind of deep inside the clutch basket but start checking by hand.
Cheers.
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Old 05-17-2013, 09:32 PM   #10
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Well the good news is I went to the HOW and removed the jet with some grease on the square end of a drill bit. Blew it out with carb cleaner several times, alot was coming out so I figure we are good, my jet cleaner kit did not have a small enough wire. Will have to ride it tomorrow and see what that does.

Is there a way to adjust where the clutch releases? I screwed the screw on the lever all the way in then backed it off a tad to ensure I was getting full disengagement, but the friction point is when the lever is almost all the way out. I like it about half way.
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Old 05-17-2013, 11:59 PM   #11
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I had a lot of trouble bleeding my Oberon slave when fitting, fluid kept looking filthy and a poor action.
I took the piston out in desperation and there was a MASSIVE amount of assembly grease in the slave, almost half full. Cleaned out and bled, action now nice, could be worth checking.
As far as the noise goes, clean the clutch jet before anything else.

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Old 05-18-2013, 08:15 AM   #12
brents347
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Unfortunately no, with the hydraulic clutch there is no adjustment for the engagement point that I know of.
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Old 05-18-2013, 08:36 AM   #13
5 speed OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frog uk View Post
I had a lot of trouble bleeding my Oberon slave when fitting, fluid kept looking filthy and a poor action.
I took the piston out in desperation and there was a MASSIVE amount of assembly grease in the slave, almost half full. Cleaned out and bled, action now nice, could be worth checking.
As far as the noise goes, clean the clutch jet before anything else.

Sent from my HTC Desire S using Tapatalk 2
Well that doesnt sound good. What I had done was once I had the master cylinder apart I cleaned thoroughly sprayed carb cleaner through the line, etc. When I filled I used a syringe down at the slave end, the oil that came up through to the master was clean. Wouldnt the grease had move up through the master?
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Old 05-18-2013, 09:27 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5 speed View Post
Well that doesnt sound good. What I had done was once I had the master cylinder apart I cleaned thoroughly sprayed carb cleaner through the line, etc. When I filled I used a syringe down at the slave end, the oil that came up through to the master was clean. Wouldnt the grease had move up through the master?
Not necessarily, if it was stuck to the side like mine was for instance. Easy to check if you're down there.
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Old 05-18-2013, 09:17 PM   #15
5 speed OP
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Well I took the jet out and cleaned it and was able to go for a short ride today. Hmn, its harder to find neutral now but I dont here the bearing noise as much and while the clutch is still dragging some, its not creeping. Guess thats something.

I had it all together already before I saw the message from Frog UK. Yes, at least the shaft part of the oberon was full of grease when I received it with the ball bearing out. Nice to have that to hold it in place. So, I did not dissemble it to see where all the grease was, figuring thats the way it was meant to be. If it was mixing with the Hydraulic fluid though I would see it in the master cylinder, yes? or is this grease on the other side of the piston so they dont mix?
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