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Old 08-28-2014, 07:34 PM   #181
JRWooden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LONG DONGER View Post
Did not read ALL the thread, to see the various solutions offered up. But my 2006 GSA eats H7 bulbs, and even got so hot that the connector on the rear melted. I spliced a generic connector in, it got hot and melted too.

In talking to the service manager at the "local" BMW shop, he says the ground (brown wire) supplied by BMW is not heavy enough to ground properly. And recommended I splice in a heavier wire and ground to the frame.

I've done that, have not lost a bulb yet, but haven't ridden much (maybe 600 to 1000 miles) since it's like a 180 degrees outside now (heat index). Will run this config for a while and see if it does help. It's supposed to start cooling down this weekend so going to get started riding again.

If this doesn't work, I think some HID's are in order.
This is just a stupid guy's ( me )
opinion, but if the ground wire was too small then it would add additional resistance to the circuit. If it did so the current draw by the bulb/wiring would be REDUCED ... since heating is proportional to (the square of the) current and the current is now lower ... I'm having trouble seeing this ...

JRWooden screwed with this post 08-28-2014 at 07:39 PM
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Old 08-28-2014, 11:13 PM   #182
dpm
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Agree. The lifetime of a halogen bulb decreases with increasing voltage. All a series resistance does is drop a little voltage.

Now if that resistance is at a point rather than spread out along a wire (say a loose connection) then that concentrated heating effect causes more issues- hence burnt sockets were loose to begin with...
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Old 08-29-2014, 08:36 PM   #183
theGSrider
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Originally Posted by murpies View Post
Wat type of led parking light you using. I was abt to change it.
I used something similar to this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Canbus-T1...cd7899&vxp=mtr

It's been blown away in many tiny pieces... after a 1h ride..
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Old 08-29-2014, 08:50 PM   #184
theGSrider
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I have done some temperature measurements with the low beam OEM bulb and my 55W HID bulb. I inserted the external wired probe of an in/out thermometer through the high beam bulb hole and left it there right next to the low beam bulb.

From cold start, the T of the OEM bulb reaches 56C in 3 minutes, then I cut the engine.

The 55W HID reaches 53C in 3 minutes.

It doesn't seem to me that HID bulbs run much colder than halogens...
I'll try up to 5 minutes (standing still) with both bulbs to have a better benchmark. I wonder how long these bulbs take to reach their operating temperature, 5 minutes should be enough?

My bike is 3 years old with the OEM bulb and no issue so far, I'm about to install the HIDs....
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Old 08-29-2014, 11:11 PM   #185
murpies
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theGSrider View Post
I used something similar to this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Canbus-T1...cd7899&vxp=mtr

It's been blown away in many tiny pieces... after a 1h ride..

Yeah those SMD LEDs are unreliable. I'm looking at Osram or Philips LEDs
http://www.autoheadlightbulbs.co.uk/...8x-longer-life
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Old 08-30-2014, 06:30 PM   #186
murpies
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theGSrider View Post
I have done some temperature measurements with the low beam OEM bulb and my 55W HID bulb. I inserted the external wired probe of an in/out thermometer through the high beam bulb hole and left it there right next to the low beam bulb.

From cold start, the T of the OEM bulb reaches 56C in 3 minutes, then I cut the engine.

The 55W HID reaches 53C in 3 minutes.

It doesn't seem to me that HID bulbs run much colder than halogens...
I'll try up to 5 minutes (standing still) with both bulbs to have a better benchmark. I wonder how long these bulbs take to reach their operating temperature, 5 minutes should be enough?

My bike is 3 years old with the OEM bulb and no issue so far, I'm about to install the HIDs....

Fantastic write up bro. If only u have the cyclops LED to test it out. I guess it will defiantly drop below 53C.
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Old 08-30-2014, 08:02 PM   #187
ebrabaek
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Reason the stock, and HID heats about the same, is because they both dissipates heat inside the bulb, and they both consume 55 watts. Simple as that.
The 35 watt HID is less because of that.
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Old 08-31-2014, 09:10 PM   #188
murpies
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Can anyone add in the info-
So if we compare the 3 bulbs :
Cyclops LED -Lumen 2400 ??C
OEM Halogen-Lumen ??? 56C
HID 55watt. -Lumen ??? 53C
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Old 08-31-2014, 09:11 PM   #189
ebrabaek
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How much does a new OEM housing cost. ???
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Old 08-31-2014, 09:15 PM   #190
Reaver
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Originally Posted by ebrabaek View Post
How much does a new OEM housing cost. ???
Reaver's warehouse has a good deal on a US spec 0 mile unit.
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Old 08-31-2014, 09:27 PM   #191
ebrabaek
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Reaver's warehouse has a good deal on a US spec 0 mile unit.
Ha..... I just wondered why so little replaces their burned unit. Must be pricy.
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Old 08-31-2014, 09:33 PM   #192
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Didn't know if you were serious.......

Max BMW lists it at $450. Comes with bulbs too.
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Old 08-31-2014, 09:37 PM   #193
ebrabaek
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Didn't know if you were serious.......

Max BMW lists it at $450. Comes with bulbs too.
Not as pricy as I thought. How are ya gonna drag all your parts to CR.....
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Old 09-01-2014, 12:47 AM   #194
murpies
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So if we compare the 3 bulbs :

Cyclops LED -Lumen 2400 @ ??C

(If Halogen bulb produce 20 lumens per watt. So 55watt = 1100 Lumen )
OEM Halogen-Lumen 1100 @ 56C

HID 55watts -Lumen 3500 @ 53C

HID 35watts -Lumen 2100 @ 33C
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Old 09-02-2014, 05:43 PM   #195
Azz
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I just heard back from BMW Australia about my burned out headlights and they're going to give me a new headlight for both my bike and my wife's :-D
Just saved me somewhere between $1000-1500AUD to replace them both for a clearly faulty product!
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