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Old 07-18-2013, 11:53 PM   #256
dwj - Donnie OP
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Location: On the Road or Mexico
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gefr

Did you receive your money?

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Old 07-19-2013, 12:46 AM   #257
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Yes I did. Thnx.

You have a pm with tracking info since the 17th.
Cheers.
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Fuel filters Fuel pump
Aluminum base plate for ITG foam air filter
Clutch master cylinder resleeving
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Old 07-19-2013, 12:48 AM   #258
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Here is what I found in the "how" at the valve adjustment part.






The LH side tank drainage hoses can be seen in the upper three photos.



The RH side tank drainage hose is supposed to run down by the clutch cover.
Cheers.
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Clutch master cylinder resleeving
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Old 07-19-2013, 05:26 AM   #259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwj - Donnie View Post
My list for updates, spares, modification as of July 18, 2013 at 27,256 miles include:


CJDesigns SS Oil Drain Tube with my modification- Completed

Spare Fork Seal - On Moto

Adjusting Steering Stops - Completed

Convert Rear Wheel to Tubeless - Completed - will need to re-do since repair melted some of the Goop.

Anti Siege the Axle Adjusting Bolts - Completed

Trim Mudguard that is hitting Swingarm - Completed

Drill Drainage holes in Swingarm - ???

Loctite and Torque Screws on Plastic Chain Slider protector - Completed

2 Fuel Filter Kits from gefr - order when I return from Mexico - install one upon arrival and have other as a spare, establish as 20,000 - 30,000 mile PM - One filter kit ordered from gefr.

Spare fuel pump from gefr - order when I return

Order Water Pump rebuild kit from ???

Purchase Crashbar Bags from akarob???

Purchase under seat tray from hontri - when I return

Received spare O-Rings for clutch slave cylinder from yellowbronco - will change one before the next trip.

Flapendectomy - Completed


Please offer advise as to included items and/or items to include.

Water pump kit is easy. Cjdesign. When I visited Craig this week we spent some time discussing that shaft. His is guaranteed for a lifetime because it is correct hardness and also corrosion proofed. I'll always start with CJdesign first for anything now. Clever guy and well thought out products. Funny to visit him and he sees foot pegs and rack are CJ design on the new bike.

Note... Add the .5mm drilled clutch oil jet from CJ to list. It is both drilled slightly bigger and conical shaped so any debris falls to side of jet. I think Craig said its the spec on the new bikes now.

I had read conflicting reports on that jet. Good to get clear information.

I've also brought the earth x battery from Craig. 6lb lighter than stock and has inbuilt circuitry protection against overcharging or draining battery. Good if the regulator problem happened and overcharging and good if something left on that drained battery and good to save all that weight.

My battery was 5 years old and little used. Worst thing you can do to a battery.
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Old 07-19-2013, 05:36 AM   #260
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Originally Posted by Trail bandit View Post
Water pump kit is easy. Cjdesign. Yes, that is what I will probably get. I think I will just change the seal and shaft. I have read where most people change the bearings as well, but I have read of no bearing failures. I will change this before the next Mexico ride in a couple months, plus I will probably carry a spare. When I visited Craig this week we spent some time discussing that shaft. His is guaranteed for a lifetime because it is correct hardness and also corrosion proofed. I'll always start with CJdesign first for anything now. Clever guy and well thought out products. Funny to visit him and he sees foot pegs and rack are CJ design on the new bike.

Note... Add the .5mm drilled clutch oil jet from CJ to list. It is both drilled slightly bigger and conical shaped so any debris falls to side of jet. I think Craig said its the spec on the new bikes now. I don't know anything about this.

I had read conflicting reports on that jet. Good to get clear information.

I've also brought the earth x battery from Craig. 6lb lighter than stock and has inbuilt circuitry protection against overcharging or draining battery. Good if the regulator problem happened and overcharging and good if something left on that drained battery and good to save all that weight. I will get a lithium battery when needed. I had one on my KLX250S and it worked quite well. I don't understand why the factories don't use these. I'm sure there could get them for at most half price and given the dollars folks spend to sabe weight, it is a bargin!

My battery was 5 years old and little used. Worst thing you can do to a battery.
I was gifted a bunch of o-rings for the clutch slave cylinder. Where is a good photo tutorial on changing this o-ring?
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:37 AM   #261
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Thread seems to have taken a bit of a turn, but I just passed 50,000 km last night.

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Old 07-19-2013, 06:41 AM   #262
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Originally Posted by Rockwell View Post
Thread seems to have taken a bit of a turn, but I just passed 50,000 km last night.

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Are y'all back traveling yet? I was following your RR when you crashed your moto.

I guess as I get accustomed to a moto this expensive having a few inexcusable flaws, I will be OK!. I was very impressed with it during this last 6,700 mile ride, but the real question is how will it perform at 150,000 miles and what will be required to keep it going. I, like you and your lady, spend substantial time on the road where minor inconveniences such as water pump rebuilds in your garage become major obstacles for road side repairs. Mine has about 44,000 KMs.

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Old 07-19-2013, 06:46 AM   #263
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Originally Posted by dwj - Donnie View Post
Are y'all back traveling yet? I was following your RR when you crashed your moto.
Yes. I rebuilt the bike last fall, and we set out again about 5 weeks ago on June 9. We've just done the east coast of Canada and will be heading into the USA soon. Should be flying out of New York to Iceland by the end of the month. Going to try to get up-to-date on the ride report.

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Old 07-19-2013, 06:49 AM   #264
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Originally Posted by Rockwell View Post
Yes. I rebuilt the bike last fall, and we set out again about 5 weeks ago on June 9. We've just done the east coast of Canada and will be heading into the USA soon. Should be flying out of New York to Iceland by the end of the month. Going to try to get up-to-date on the ride report.

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I will be following!
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Old 07-20-2013, 05:50 PM   #265
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I been back out looking at the stopped up drain. A very small amount of gas actually went through the drain, but I am not for sure where it came out. Some water had came out somewhere when I was blowing air in the line earlier. When the left side drains, it is running down the tank from the inside in the area of the fuel pump. There are two drain hoses at the clutch slave cylinder, one small and one larger. A small amount of gas MAY have come out of the smaller line. How is all of this supposed to work? It seems like a drain line has come off somewhere and another has a kink in it. Does the drain lines go directly to the ground or does it pass through something like a charcoal canister? Inquiring minds want to know? Thanks!

I think I caused the problem with the tank venting as mentioned earlier, but went ahead and did the Flapendectomy anyway. I did not eliminate the canister, too many conflicting directions. One makes it seem as simple as plugging the hose going to the canister vacuum pump and venting the tanks down beside the radiator. I like that one! If someone has done this method, I would appreciate some info! Others talk about making an electric 'thing" to eliminate that valve. It confuses me and I generally do nothing, if not necessary, when confused!

I took the tanks off today in preparation for checking the valves. The right over flow was pinched and is the reason it was not allowing gas or water to drain. The right hose was not hooked up, allowing gas and water to run down the engine. I think in the future, I will pour a bit of gas down the drains to insure proper drainage before installing the bolts.

I wished the fuel filters were already here, but I will pull the left tank again when the filters arrive.

dwj - Donnie screwed with this post 07-21-2013 at 04:18 AM
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Old 07-21-2013, 03:59 AM   #266
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Originally Posted by gefr View Post
You have a pm with tracking info since the 17th.
Cheers.
Hi gefr!

I did not receive this PM.

Donnie
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Old 07-21-2013, 07:04 AM   #267
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How to Install the locking Bolt to Pull Cam???

I have this on a seperate Thread, but thought I would include it here as well.

Hi!

I am checking the valves on my 2007 990ADV at 27,256 miles. I was a bit surprised at the amount of movement they had. At 10,164 miles the rear cylinder was .07" on both intakes with a spec of .04"-.06". They were a little bit out, but I figured that would close in with mileage, so I did not change them. At 27,256 they are both .06", perfect as far as I am concerned! The exhaust however with a spec of .010"-.012" went from .012" on the right side and .013" on the left side to .06" and .07"! I checked them several times and re-positions the engine to do so.

Anyway, now I need to install the CJracer "locking bolt" in order to pull the cam and am having difficulty doing so. The tutorial I am using says to look into the hole that the bolt fits into and watch for the notch. My eyes aren't as good as they used to be and I don't see nothing when I look into that hole! I understand that the bolt fits in at near the same location as when checking valve clearances. I have tried getting the engine in the position just before the dots on the cam gear are line up and turning the engine as little as possible, trying to push the bolt in after each minute movement. No joy! Is there some kind of "trick" or method that I am not doing? Need help and advise! Thanks!

I have not checked the front cylinder yet.
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Old 07-21-2013, 04:59 PM   #268
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The intake valves on the front cylinder remained fairly stable as the rear cylinder, however the exhaust had moved from .09" and .13" to .09" and .11". The valve covers are on and the spark plugs are in. All that is left is the furl system and to see if it will crank!

I had planned on not checking them for another 30,000 miles, but given the reduction in gap in the past 17,000 miles, I may check them at 25,000 miles. I assume that the gap will not close as quickly as the miles increase.
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Old 07-22-2013, 01:25 PM   #269
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My list for updates, spares, modification as of July 22, 2013 at 27,256 miles include:


CJDesigns SS Oil Drain Tube with my modification- Completed

Spare Fork Seal - On Moto

Adjusting Steering Stops - Completed

Convert Rear Wheel to Tubeless - Completed - will need to re-do since repair melted some of the Goop.

Anti Siege the Axle Adjusting Bolts - Completed

Trim Mudguard that is hitting Swingarm - Completed

Loctite and Torque Screws on Plastic Chain Slider protector - Completed

Flapendectomy - Completed

Bypassed Canister and vent tanks directly to ground - Completed This is one of the several methods I read about.

2 Fuel Filter Kits from gefr - order when I return from Mexico - install one upon arrival and have other as a spare, establish as 20,000 - 30,000 mile PM - One filter kit ordered from gefr.

Received spare O-Rings for clutch slave cylinder from yellowbronco - will change one before the next trip and probably establish as PM. Spares on moto.

Spare fuel pump from gefr - will order

Drill Drainage holes in Swingarm - ???

Order Water Pump rebuild kit from CJracer, shaft and seal only

Purchase Crashbar Bags from akarob???

Purchase under seat tray from hontri - will

Please offer advise as to included items and/or items to include.





This was my second valve check, but my first adjustment. All went well, very slow, but next time will be quicker! As already mentioned, the exhaust valves had closed up to 6 thousands on some valves. That was from 10,164 miles to 27,256 miles. There was one bolt I had to torque by feel because my allen socket was 3/8 inch and too big to fit with the 3/8 torque wrench. Is there 1/4 metric allen sockets in the 4 to 6mm range?

I still have a lot of PM and known issues to address before the next big trip. Plus, the front wheel and some plastic has to be replaced. But I have six weeks or so before that happens!


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Old 07-23-2013, 07:55 AM   #270
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Originally Posted by dwj - Donnie View Post
There was one bolt I had to torque by feel because my allen socket was 3/8 inch and too big to fit with the 3/8 torque wrench. Is there 1/4 metric allen sockets in the 4 to 6mm range?
Harbor Freight $7-8 for a set of color coded sized sockets.
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