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Old 05-22-2013, 08:21 AM   #16
boxerboy81
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Funny read...the carb chronicles.


http://home.insightbb.com/~cdpumphr/...les_page_2.htm
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Old 05-26-2013, 12:23 PM   #17
Dang! OP
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So after a week of trying that thing is still not coming out. After days of soaking and heating failed I've drilled most of it out to thin the walls and it's still stubbornly fused in there. Any more drilling and I'll be taking the threads out of the aluminum. If decide to scrap it what are my options for replacing the carb body? I've been told by some local guys that I'd be happier just biting the bullet and replacing the carbs with Mikunis or Dell'ortos instead of trying to chase down and rebuilding a body but I'm not sure yet. Mine are the 11/12 series and I've seen a naked 221/222 single on eBay, would I be able to pull everything from mine to fit into that body, replacing the jet and holder? If anyone is still reading this far, thanks!

-d
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Old 05-26-2013, 01:18 PM   #18
Bill Harris
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One thing I've done in a similar situation is to drill the brass piece as much as I could to just to get to the bottom of the jet threads/top of the carb threads (may have to get a Dremel with a small carbide bit for the final "cut) and using a dental pick, pick away 5-6 turns of the thread. Which will allow you to start a metric tap in that hole and let it take the rest of the jet out with the tap. Especially if the last drill hole it tap-drill sized. I'm thinking that the jet carrier is M10 x 1.0 or 0.75 ????

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Old 05-26-2013, 01:19 PM   #19
disston
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You are likely to have to pay $100 for the carb body you need. Since the Mikunie's are around $500 this makes them a good deal. But you need to afford the extra to get the savings.

I know there are other numbers that replaced the 11/12 series. But I don't think that means they will match the 11/12's. If you are thinking of using a 221 with a 12 or some such. I would want to have a matched pair. Either the 221/222 or the 11/12. So this way the Mikunie's look even more attractive.

You may get lucky and find what you need for a reasonable price but it's not really the season to have a bike with no carbs ya' know?
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Old 05-26-2013, 03:09 PM   #20
_cy_
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dang! View Post
So after a week of trying that thing is still not coming out. After days of soaking and heating failed I've drilled most of it out to thin the walls and it's still stubbornly fused in there. Any more drilling and I'll be taking the threads out of the aluminum. If decide to scrap it what are my options for replacing the carb body? I've been told by some local guys that I'd be happier just biting the bullet and replacing the carbs with Mikunis or Dell'ortos instead of trying to chase down and rebuilding a body but I'm not sure yet. Mine are the 11/12 series and I've seen a naked 221/222 single on eBay, would I be able to pull everything from mine to fit into that body, replacing the jet and holder? If anyone is still reading this far, thanks!

-d
don't give up just yet ... when you barely hit aluminum threads .. go any further and carb is toast. threads should now collapse, ready to be picked out.

a bit late but it's double critical to start drilling dead straight. so when you hit threads, wall thickness are the same.

did you use beeryman chemtool to desolve gunk?

here's a side view to see what this looks like out ..

note due to placement of oring, spray solvent will not reach thread from bottom. chemtool needs to be sprayed from needle opening downwards to reach threads.





this is definitely where using a quality box end that grabs flats makes a difference.

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Old 05-26-2013, 05:40 PM   #21
Captdan
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I'd highly suggest buying a Bing book. I knew nothing about Bings not long ago and with book ( and this forum) I've come to love Bings. Easy to rebuild and easy to maintain once you learn how ( and you are going to school now it seems )
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Old 05-26-2013, 08:41 PM   #22
zigman
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Dang, I sent you a PM. I might have a carb that would work for you if you need it. The previous owner of mine converted to Mikuni's so I have the original Bing sitting on a shelf.
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Old 05-27-2013, 07:34 PM   #23
Wirespokes
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These carbs are pretty common and relatively cheap. I see them all the time.

I may even have one that will work for you - I know I've got a set with one that's trashed.

That said, what's worked for me in removing stuck carb parts is heat/cooling cycles and aluminum cleaner. It can take a while for the chemical to reach deep enough to free up the jet, but it will eventually. I used to use a ZEP product - but can't get it any more. So now I've been using Eagle 1 Mag Wheel Cleaner (not the one safe for clear coated wheels). It's not quite as strong as the industrial strength ZEP stuff, but works almost as well.
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Old 05-28-2013, 01:19 PM   #24
Dang! OP
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I haven't tried the aluminum cleaner, thanks for the tip. It soaked for days in everything else I tried. In the meantime a forum member has offered a spare that is the side/series number I need, that should at least get me back to the point that I can troubleshoot the original problem. Thanks for all the help/advice.
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