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Old 05-21-2013, 12:42 PM   #1
byron555 OP
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CT110 stuck in neutral

I have an 81 ct110 that is stuck in neutral... any tips? special tools?

I plan on getting this little guy going and want to do it on the cheap. My dad has owned this bike since new and it worked up until 4 years ago.
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Old 05-21-2013, 02:02 PM   #2
Mendodave
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Shifter plate

Hi

http://www.dratv.com is your new best friend

does the shift lever move at all? I bet it does.

you probably have the shift plate issue, it is either really loose or off. It is behind the clutch, so I think that is the right side cover. You will need the clutch removal tool. You could just take that cover off first, however.

the shifter plate is on the upper left partially behind the clutch.

if the lever doesn't move at all it could be frozen in the cover, but I doubt that. These things are tanks.

there are PDF shop manuals on the net if you look, or buy one.

Mendo
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Old 05-21-2013, 04:16 PM   #3
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thanks

It does move, I knew there was something behind the clutch that effected the shifter, but wasn't sure what it was.
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Old 05-21-2013, 04:52 PM   #4
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The hook

Hi

I tried to send you the page from the manual that shows it, but I have a locked PDF...arrrgh

very simply;

yes, the shifter shaft has a sort of hook on it that reaches up to the shift plate, which is on the end of the shift drum. if the shift plate is loose or off, which is apparently common on these, the hook can't grab the plate.

Mine would pop into neutrals all over the place, bounce off a ditch in second and be in a neutral, etc. I just took it to my mech and had it fixed, riding season is here, I didn't want to wait, but it is not a hard job.

Great little bikes, you will love it.

Mendo
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Old 05-21-2013, 06:16 PM   #5
byron555 OP
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It needs some other work too

I am taking on this project to get to know bikes more. Not that I am a total novice mind you, I have done a clutch on an XR650L and some other work. I have never disassembled carb before or have done fork seals and this needs both. If the carb is too bad, ones can be had for $25 on ebay.

I am looking at this as a learning project...
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Old 05-21-2013, 07:13 PM   #6
fullmetalscooter
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When it come to any honda ct forget fleabay and Go with Dr atv as one guy has said. If you get stuck you can even phone them up and get help . They know there stuff when it comes to any ct model. You can buy the parts , the tools and I even think they may have a few youtube video on your clutch and changing it.
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:49 AM   #7
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She Lives... Well sort of

Cleaned the Carb last night and worked on the points... Kicked and kicked... no go. Went out there this morning, 2-3 kicks, and she fired up for about 10 seconds. That is good enough in my opinion to go ahead with the project... I just wanted some sign of life. The gas tanks will need a good cleaning and coating on the inside, the forks need new seals, new battery, and lastly after all is done (including the shifter problem) new tires. The original 1981 tires have seen better days

This is not going to be a full on restoration, as I would like to keep that "aged" patina look, but I do want it to operate properly.
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Old 05-22-2013, 08:07 AM   #8
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How bout a few pictures!
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:05 AM   #9
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I was working on Pics

Here is one for a start

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Old 05-22-2013, 09:18 AM   #10
byron555 OP
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Where to go from here...

Should I buy a new battery now? I recall that it fired up much easier with a fresh battery... (this bike has been in the family since 1982) Do the tank first? Getting running and idling before or after cracking it open to fix the shifter problem?

I want to do this in a logical fashion, to keep the price at a minimum... Oh and this bike has 1420 miles on it and a history of bad gas due to lack of use...

I wish I would have taken pictures of the float bowl last night when I had it opened up... Nasty
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:40 AM   #11
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Looks great! some elbow grease and a couple of replacement decals and you'll have it looking like new.

Normally I would always advise to fix the starting issues first, but you're going to want to ride it as soon as the engine's going.

Buy a battery. Fix the trans. Clean up the carb, petcock, etc and do what you need to do with the tank. That's my advice.

If it was me, temptation would probably have me trying to get the engine run steady. Either way don't waste your time with the old battery, and go ahead and order your new tires NOW. Do NOT ride on 32 year old tires. Please.
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:15 AM   #12
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I'll 2x post #11...and add that after cleaning the carb and jets...spend about $8.00 for two clear plastic inline fuel filters (one for the reg fuel line, one for the reserve). These protect "your carb work" from having to be repeated again, and again, and again...

Took me 3x to learn this lesson. Fuel filter is really a good addition to these bikes.
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:22 AM   #13
byron555 OP
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32 year old tires

Yes they are well "aged", but until it is tuned up and working I'm going to wait... I have a WR250r as my usual ride... I know the tires need replacing, and they are cheap, but I'm cheaper! You'd think I rode a KLR!
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:51 AM   #14
Mendodave
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Battery

These things will blow headlight bulbs out if you run with a missing or bad battery, and they are really cheap, good advice.

I like the orange ones, they are pretty. Mine is the standard red.

You have the spare gascan too!

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Old 05-22-2013, 08:18 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byron555 View Post
Yes they are well "aged", but until it is tuned up and working I'm going to wait... I have a WR250r as my usual ride... I know the tires need replacing, and they are cheap, but I'm cheaper! You'd think I rode a KLR!
not replacing them when there only 12 bucks per tire that being really cheap A blow out at even 10 mph can break your bank with a one night stay at hosbital . 5 grand .
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