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Old 07-06-2013, 03:25 PM   #61
AntonLargiader
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elmontanero View Post
Two hands... yeah.. ground the plug wires and should do that. With the kickstarter there - just went after it.
I'd probably unplug the input to the coil.

Actually I would reassemble the top end, less the valve cover, and look for the oil coming out of the rockers. I think you're chasing your tail looking for a nonexistent problem by not actually simulating engine operation.
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Old 07-06-2013, 03:31 PM   #62
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Thanks for the word Anton... I respect your knowledge greatly and I'm grateful for it.

I would hate to assemble it all then have to back out that entire side if there's no flow from that stud. I'm assuming there'd be much more pressure from the button on the push of oil than the kickstart, but there's good flow from all the other galleys with just that kickstart. (again thinking aloud to see if I'm making any crap assumptions).
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Old 07-06-2013, 04:58 PM   #63
Renner
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sounds like pressure isn't building because there's no resistance to flow at the aft, known good port.
Oil flowing there doesn't have the chance to make it to the forward, 'repair' oil outlet.

With the top-end assembled, there's more resistance to flow due to the rockers, etc.

'course, the oil path diagram appears to show the forward port is upstream in the path... so I may be blowing smoke.

Is the bike tail-down on the centerstand? The flowing port lower than the reluctant one?
Though if you're using the e-start, that wouldn't matter much.
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Old 07-06-2013, 05:13 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renner View Post
sounds like pressure isn't building because there's no resistance to flow at the aft, known good port.
Oil flowing there doesn't have the chance to make it to the forward, 'repair' oil outlet.
This was the logic and attack I went after too Renner. Just returned from downstairs .
Hooked up the battery and pulled the coil leads (thanks Anton... feeling a bit of an idiot - obvious way to do it - and I did not think of it) pressed the button... no flow out the front, but flow like a MOFO everywhere and I thought the kickstarter was making a mess.
So another squirt of WD up the good out it comes of the bad... Renner's point dawned on me. Shop towel wadded up tight then crammed in to the good side stud threads to put pressure on the good hole. Key on and button - Good flow like it should out the front. Wait 20 minutes and clean up the BP gulf spill off the floor.

If you've never poored oil directly into the engine casing with the crank looking at you - I'm here to tell you - good times.

Repeat of above for check... flow out the "bad" side. Good enough for me.
I'm going to try to put it together tomorrow. Could/should do it today, but I'm head burnt and the GF is tired of me smelling like 20/50W (not to start an oil thread).

Thanks Anton, Renner, and No5s that I met at breakfast this morning for talking me off the ledge... perhaps we'll get this thing done yet.
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Old 07-06-2013, 06:45 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elmontanero View Post
... perhaps we'll get this thing done yet.
you're past the hard part
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Old 07-06-2013, 09:37 PM   #66
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G/s

Nice to see a positive resolution. Many great suggestions, from lots of airheads. Hope to see the G/S at breakfast next week.
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Old 07-07-2013, 05:40 AM   #67
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Send photos of the finished bike.
It was good talking to you Saturday at breakfast.
Got the new GS yesterday as planned. Can't wait to put some miles on it.
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:55 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elmontanero View Post

If you've never poored oil directly into the engine casing with the crank looking at you - I'm here to tell you - good times.
This.....made me laugh. Glad you got it sorted, sorry I wasn't around to help. But you've got bigger brains here.....I did put the stud back in and popped it in 5th, then spun the wheel and the oil flow was instant. But mine was the front stud. Again, happy you're on the road to recovery.
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Old 07-09-2013, 01:41 PM   #69
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All in, All sorted. Did the bulk of it yesterday, finished up today.

Bearing shells, con rods, pistons, new rings, Orings, Cylinders, head gasket, head, rockers, valves adjusted, spark plugs, Gasket, Rocker covers, Carbs back, exhaust back, seat, battery connected, gas in.

And it started up just fine. Did the high rev on start, rode a short trip around and as a precaution did an oil and Filter dump. Took the rocker cover off the problem side and the rockers looked nice and wet.

Slight oil weep from the Right hand side rocker cover gasket. Tomorrow I'm going to recheck the Valves and rocker clearances and endplay. Will try to get a Carb balance in.

Carbs currently have independent floats and I'm going back to the joined ones once I find bowls. But for now... yippee.

I'm updating the first line of first post for those that want to hover rather than scan down to read it.

Reset Valves and endplay.. odd that it changed a bit in a single ride. I'm definitely keeping an eye on a fresh build.
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elmontanero screwed with this post 07-10-2013 at 04:02 PM Reason: update recheck valves and endplay.
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Old 07-09-2013, 02:24 PM   #70
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good to hear; thanks for the update
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Old 07-09-2013, 06:45 PM   #71
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To clean a newly drilled oil port, run a nut on all 3 other studs to the case, loop an elastic band between the nut and the case, squueze tight. Puts the onus on the repaired hole to pass oil and flush crap out.
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Old 07-16-2013, 05:13 PM   #72
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For the kind folks that have contributed.. short follow up:
Ridden, drained, Valves rechecked and adjusted (why not?), Ridden to hot then carbs synched with a Harmonizer. Good smooth riding now. 20 miles on it and everything seems happy.
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Old 08-04-2013, 12:27 PM   #73
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Bike is well after 1500 miles... on a trip right now with it trying to cross the Sierras as many times as possible on the way to Washington... Been fun trying to tour on the r80g/s when I'm used to the r1150gs.
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Old 08-06-2013, 05:49 AM   #74
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Glad to see that everything is working well now. And I'm also happy to see that my "Airhead Stud Repair Advisory" thread came in helpful.

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Old 08-06-2013, 11:39 AM   #75
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I haven't read all through this thread but for those who are interested in testing the rocker arm oil flow: I know from priming many rebuilt engines that it can take some time to get oil there. The oil volume isn't much per the oil pickups on the front main bearing. I always prime the oil pump and galleys before I ever hook up the timing chain. It can sometimes take a LOT of turns to get oil up there. It's THE last place it shows up. I mean burning a starter up or two long time if the whole setup was cleaned.

I don't worry about testing that oiling setup. If there are holes in the main and the holes are clear to the eye, it will eventually get oil. Blowing into those galleys? No, I would vacuum. Just in case there are some metal chips in it!
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