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Old 06-06-2013, 04:36 AM   #16
scatland OP
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Joined: May 2013
Oddometer: 87
So a quick update, found out Where the leak was coming from today. Seems it's from the braided oil line above the first oil filter. Should I just replace the copper gaskets for the banjo bolt or is this a known problem on lc4s?

Pics of the leak -

on another note going to go look at a drz400 with 4500 miles on it going for £2300 tomorrow (apparently an ex police dirtbike that was hardly used) I may end up getting this and selling the lc4 so I can do some dirt adventurin. Drzs are waaay more reliable than lc4s right?

scatland screwed with this post 06-06-2013 at 04:53 AM
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Old 06-06-2013, 07:10 AM   #17
gunnerbuck
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The simplest of leaks

Take the banjo out, clean and inspect it... Sometimes installing the sealing washers gets overlooked or the bolt gets undertorqued... If the bolt has been over torqued it may have a split or become distorted... If it still leaks with new washers then replace the bolt, use a torque wrench to get it to the correct tension..
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Old 06-06-2013, 02:54 PM   #18
scatland OP
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Pissed That didn't go well

Ok so... I tried doing the valve clearances today and ran out of daylight before they were done. had the feeler gauge in (Flimsy piece of shit) attempting to slide it around which was ok until I tightened down the jam nut which caused the adjustment to go completely out. also its an absolute PAIN IN THE ASS to get a wrench around the jam nut and I don't have a socket small enough to get into the top of the engine without touching the sides

The bike is now sitting in my garage in pieces. looks like it will be the bus to work tomorrow

Also in regards to the oil leak, the banjo bolt had either been not tightened enough or had rattled loose. tightened it up with a torque wrench and no more leaky
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Old 06-06-2013, 11:26 PM   #19
bmwktmbill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scatland View Post
Ok so... I tried doing the valve clearances today and ran out of daylight before they were done. had the feeler gauge in (Flimsy piece of shit) attempting to slide it around which was ok until I tightened down the jam nut which caused the adjustment to go completely out. also its an absolute PAIN IN THE ASS to get a wrench around the jam nut and I don't have a socket small enough to get into the top of the engine without touching the sides

The bike is now sitting in my garage in pieces. looks like it will be the bus to work tomorrow

Also in regards to the oil leak, the banjo bolt had either been not tightened enough or had rattled loose. tightened it up with a torque wrench and no more leaky
Welcome to 640 land.

Did you remove the fan(be gentle)? and the breather piping and the gas tank donuts.
Clear the way.

Use a long thin screwdriver to stabilize the threaded adjuster, get the jam nut a little tight with the box end of your 10mm combination wrench, check, fully tighten, final check, for all four adjusters.

No long screwdriver?...go buy one. Get a little one too.
Pick up a good quality 10 mm metric combination wrench too. A head lamp helps to see what you are doing.
Make your own plan?

Making a shortened allen wrench helps to loosen/tighten the valve covers

Patience Prudence, you are learning, training your fingers, others will appreciate. I's like the piano.
Practice!!!!!

Haha, have fun.
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"On the road there are no special cases."
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The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
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bmwktmbill screwed with this post 06-07-2013 at 09:00 PM
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Old 06-07-2013, 02:47 PM   #20
scatland OP
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I followed the creeper guide on the valve adjustment, i was sure I had TDCC but now im thinking it was on the TDC Exhaust stroke. the piston was at the top of its stroke and everything seemed right when I closed it up. press the magic button and ... nothing.. it seems it wasnt able to turn over at TDC. pulled in decompression and gave it a couple kicks then eventually got the engine to turn over, the result was a VERY ticky engine

See the video, I'm sure this is loose valves but they were right on .15mm when I had the feeler gauge in them :(

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Old 06-07-2013, 04:01 PM   #21
Syncrosimon
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That does sound clatterly to me. The valve clearance sounds too much. If it was at the wrong tdc when you adjusted, then it is very easy to adjust the valves when the cam is just starting to open the valves. You then get that clattering. After a couple of goes adjusting the valves becomes much easier, it is something where practice does make perfect.
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Old 06-07-2013, 04:41 PM   #22
Sparrowhawk
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It gets easier with practice.

Creeper's guide for finding TDC is good but there is another way that works too. There is a small mark on the flywheel you can see through the little window at TDC. You can see it below. It's the dark hash mark at the top of the window.



One of these offset box ends makes setting the lock nut easy.



And then head down to your dealer and pick up a smaller bent feeler guage. They are much easier to use than the normal ones.



And, as Bill said, buy or make an allen wrench with a shortened small side. It's way easier to get the rear valve cover bolts out.

I don't know if your bike has oil in the frame but if it does it could explain the loss of oil. If the frame filling procedure was not followed correctly it can leave air in the chamber. After running a bit oil from the engine is pumped into the void and the level on the dip stick drops. Once the air is gone oil level stabilizes.
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Old 06-10-2013, 05:30 AM   #23
scatland OP
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The feeler gauge isnt going in (thats what she said) but the VALVES SOUND LOOSE GODAMNIT. Also I dont understand how you should be finding TDCC. I should be looking for both valves to be closing but I have kicked it through its full cycle about 1 million times and it looks to me like the rocker arms are opening/closing both valves at the same time (one doesnt go down and then the other) they both seem to open and close. I just took a day of work to try and fix this shitheap and I cant even adjust the valves:k boom
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Old 06-10-2013, 06:48 AM   #24
scatland OP
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Disregard the last post, found out what I did wrong and valves are adjusted with bike put back together and running sweet. Will post back after riding this beast
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Old 06-10-2013, 08:07 AM   #25
mountaincadre
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I notice you used a £ sign in an earlier post scatland, where about are you?, oh aye and good to hear the bikes going ok.
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Old 06-10-2013, 02:30 PM   #26
scatland OP
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Im in Edinburgh mate, Yeah the best way for finding TDCC (for someone special like me who cant seem to follow creepers guide) wait for the piston to come up with a big blast of air. then you know you are on the compression stroke. I find this way easier than looking at the valves to determine what stroke you are on

Its amazing how just getting the valves set up right changes how the bike feels. It felt so much smoother even from when I first bought it, so im guessing the valves were maybe a bit off then too.
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Old 06-10-2013, 11:10 PM   #27
bmwktmbill
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Scat,
Good on you, enjoy the ride, keep the revs UP!

If you use a stel rod(in the tool kit) to find TDC feel for the dead spot do this.

As the piston comes up there will be a point where movement dies...that's TDC, then it will start down..

bill
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'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
Bill Shockley
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Old 06-10-2013, 11:53 PM   #28
mountaincadre
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Great to hear its going good mate, need to get out for a blast,(i'm in West Lothian),. I'm no expert but if you have any further probs send me a message through the forum as I've had a few of the usual katy m niggles.
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Old 06-11-2013, 03:11 AM   #29
scatland OP
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Cheers, hopefully thats the end of the issues until the waterpump leaks into the oil system as i've read here

Calder area has some really fun single lane back roads to explore and blast around on a supermoto, even ended up on some dirt/rock track a few weeks ago (probably shouldnt have been there)

see you out there, if you spot a knob on an orange bike wearing black leathers and a white helmet thats me
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Old 06-11-2013, 03:53 AM   #30
mountaincadre
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Originally Posted by scatland View Post
Cheers, hopefully thats the end of the issues until the waterpump leaks into the oil system as i've read here

Calder area has some really fun single lane back roads to explore and blast around on a supermoto, even ended up on some dirt/rock track a few weeks ago (probably shouldnt have been there)

see you out there, if you spot a knob on an orange bike wearing black leathers and a white helmet thats me
Feck that could be me your talking about
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