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Old 05-23-2013, 02:29 AM   #1
hoss18 OP
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respoking R100GS front Xlace wheel

Looking for a little advice from anyone that has relaced one of these xlaced spoked wheels. Ive got it all back together and its not to bad but Im wondering what the BMW specs are for allowable side to side variation. My dial gauge puts mine at just under 1mm deflection at worst spot. I could probably get it better but Im thinking that the rubber tyre variation would probably be worse than that??? Am I overthinking it and that should be good enough?
Thanks
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Old 05-23-2013, 04:04 AM   #2
Bill Harris
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Radial runout is 0.5mm, lateral is 0.2mm

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Old 05-23-2013, 06:05 AM   #3
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Ok thanks bill, got to do a bit more then.
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Old 05-23-2013, 07:58 AM   #4
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And BMW wheels have a specific offset between the hub centerline and the rim centerline. I don't have a spec, but my /5 manual specifies using "spoke fitting gauges" front and rear. May be different for later/new-fangled GS's...

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Old 05-24-2013, 09:15 PM   #5
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Thanks Again Bill. Now that raises another problem, in my enthusiasm to do the job I pulled the spokes out before even thinking of the offset. Does anyone know the offset for the R100GS front wheel? or perhaps someone with one could measure the distance hub/rim offset for me???
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Old 05-25-2013, 01:58 AM   #6
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I can't see the reason for a front offset? Rear yes because of the swingarm
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Old 05-25-2013, 02:18 AM   #7
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No offset on mine, but it has been rebuilt with SS spokes at some time.

You are correct on tires - nice to spend a extra bit time dialing in the rim to 10 thou then find that no-one can make a tire much better than ten times that.Not.
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Old 05-25-2013, 04:44 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
I can't see the reason for a front offset? Rear yes because of the swingarm
I'm not sure why either but have heard that they have an offset from several different sources...maybe it has to do with the brake disc alignment??
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Old 05-25-2013, 04:47 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Beemerboff View Post
No offset on mine, but it has been rebuilt with SS spokes at some time.

You are correct on tires - nice to spend a extra bit time dialing in the rim to 10 thou then find that no-one can make a tire much better than ten times that.Not.
Thanks. If I can't find an offset I will just centre the hub like yours and check that the brake caliper fits.
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Old 05-25-2013, 09:22 AM   #10
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Did you read this?

http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/OGSWTTv10.pdf

One of my friends is very good at rebuilding regular wheels. I tought I could drop mine at his place with the instructions. We shall see how patient he is...otherwise he has quite a lot of room behind his shop to practice wheel hurling.

My wheel has no value as it is and the deal is money for him only if he can put it to specs and fleabay it. Otherwise we will be tossing....!
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Old 05-25-2013, 04:03 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Bill Harris View Post
Radial runout is 0.5mm, lateral is 0.2mm

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If it's any comfort hoss18, it is well known that BMW almost never met that spec themselves. I have PDI'ed a lot of X spoke BMW's and most all of them were never even close to that spec.
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Old 05-25-2013, 09:30 PM   #12
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I spent at least 40 hours on the front of my GS trying to improve it. It had a pretty good side to side wobble and was only able to reduce it by half. It was rideable before and better after, but still bothered me.

Since then I've found out the reason it would be absolutely true, and then on the final tightening, veer out of true. These wheels can get bent and they're so rugged they don't true easily with spoke tension.

Woody in Colorado works on these wheels and his technique is to ensure the rim is absolutely straight before lacing. If it's not, he straightens it.

They're not the easiest to lace and true, requiring some different techniques, but not impossible.
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Old 05-25-2013, 11:21 PM   #13
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I've laced a few of them. The trick I've used is don't fight the wobble. You bring the spokes up gradually starting from finger tight with everything very true and round. As you bring it up tighter, if it starts to push out on one side, stop. Do not try to pull it back in line. Just back everything off and try again. By the third attempt, I've usually got it very close and fully tensioned. I would not attempt this without a torque wrench to keep even tension at all times.
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Old 05-26-2013, 02:58 AM   #14
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And what torque setting did you end up with?
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Old 05-26-2013, 08:42 PM   #15
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I used a torque wrench too. And tightened them in a pattern that skipped a quarter way around to the next one - tighten at 12, then 3, 6, 8, then the next one to the right of 12. And, for sure, start out with the rim where it's supposed to be initially - don't expect to true it with the spokes. It's gotta start out true from the beginning.
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