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Old 05-23-2013, 07:41 PM   #1
ironjack63 OP
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braided brake lines

I want to improve my braking on my '81 r100rt, and was wondering if anyone has a good source for braided steel brake lines. I think with braided lines and new brake pads the r100rt will have considerably improved stopping.
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Old 05-23-2013, 08:00 PM   #2
DaveBall
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Please try using the search engine. We just had a thread on this.

You can get a complete kit from Spieglerusa.com They sell a quality package and you can also get one for the rear brake.
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Old 05-23-2013, 08:02 PM   #3
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http://thenickwackettgarage.com/bmw/
No affiliation, just a satisfied customer.
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Old 05-23-2013, 09:48 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by ironjack63 View Post
I want to improve my braking on my '81 r100rt, and was wondering if anyone has a good source for braided steel brake lines. I think with braided lines and new brake pads the r100rt will have considerably improved stopping.
The right pads will help but can be hard on rotors. The lines give a harder 'feel' but do nothing for actual brake performance--esp on a full fairing bike with short flex lines and long hard lines. it would be the last thing to change. Going to iron rotors is very effective but expensive. Ditto 4 pot calipers. A change in the MC diameter can help if you have lever clearance.

A Dynabee can work wonders depending on your occupation. For a tradesman, not so much. If you push computers all day and don't work out daily, it can be amazing. Significant results in about 2 weeks with slower but steady improvement thereafter. And you get ripped, manly-man forearms to boot. Cheap--$15 or so.
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:16 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
The right pads will help but can be hard on rotors. The lines give a harder 'feel' but do nothing for actual brake performance--esp on a full fairing bike with short flex lines and long hard lines. it would be the last thing to change. Going to iron rotors is very effective but expensive. Ditto 4 pot calipers. A change in the MC diameter can help if you have lever clearance.

A Dynabee can work wonders depending on your occupation. For a tradesman, not so much. If you push computers all day and don't work out daily, it can be amazing. Significant results in about 2 weeks with slower but steady improvement thereafter. And you get ripped, manly-man forearms to boot. Cheap--$15 or so.
Sure, steel braided teflon lines is only about 'feel'. That's why every decent performing bike since hydraulic brakes first came out has had them? No, get them for yourself and see for yourself. They are hands down better in every way including lasting way longer than rubber lines and all the while their performance remains unchanged. The bum and many other 'guru's' use to go on about how they were no good but since then BMW puts them on bikes from the factory. That finally put a stop to most of that nonsense. Money well spent. ANY setup needs them!
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:19 PM   #6
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Yeah, firmer lever but not necessarily better braking. But! 30 yo lines are best changed regardless. My lines showed no problems, and the squishier lever gave better feel imo. But, I use my front brakes mucho hardo, and changing them was the right thing to do.

Any excercises for centre stand deployment Plaka?
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Old 05-23-2013, 11:23 PM   #7
Plaka
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Yeah, firmer lever but not necessarily better braking. But! 30 yo lines are best changed regardless. My lines showed no problems, and the squishier lever gave better feel imo. But, I use my front brakes mucho hardo, and changing them was the right thing to do.

Any excercises for centre stand deployment Plaka?
Bob says don't replace stock BMW lines fearing failure. Apparently they have a seriously extended life.

I know exercises for center stand deployment however they are NSFW. If you can already do an extended standing-monkey-reaches-joy with a woman half your age you're there.

As far as getting the bike up on the centerstand, I do know some techniques that work well, mostly for newbies. If you have something like an '83 R100 with one of the stock horror stands, no hope. Ditch the thing. I have a ride off. Tried going back to stock and went back to the ride off (I am not fond of it but it does work) real quick. Like after the second attempt at using the stock one. Bob says it puts those year bikes on his do-not-buy list. Interesting.


I have a lot of hand strength (tradesman) but it's variable. I also have a nerve problem and can lose strength for months at a time (things like books just fall from my hand when I try to pick them up). So then I have to build up again when the nerve function returns. The muscles atrophy pretty quickly at my age and the neuromuscular junction gets inefficient. Bringing the junction back is quick (thus the fast 2 week improvement), rebuilding the muscles is slower.
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Old 05-23-2013, 11:57 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
Bob says don't replace stock BMW lines fearing failure. Apparently they have a seriously extended life.

I know exercises for center stand deployment however they are NSFW. If you can already do an extended standing-monkey-reaches-joy with a woman half your age you're there.

As far as getting the bike up on the centerstand, I do know some techniques that work well, mostly for newbies. If you have something like an '83 R100 with one of the stock horror stands, no hope. Ditch the thing. I have a ride off. Tried going back to stock and went back to the ride off (I am not fond of it but it does work) real quick. Like after the second attempt at using the stock one. Bob says it puts those year bikes on his do-not-buy list. Interesting.


I have a lot of hand strength (tradesman) but it's variable. I also have a nerve problem and can lose strength for months at a time (things like books just fall from my hand when I try to pick them up). So then I have to build up again when the nerve function returns. The muscles atrophy pretty quickly at my age and the neuromuscular junction gets inefficient. Bringing the junction back is quick (thus the fast 2 week improvement), rebuilding the muscles is slower.
I knew I should have put a smiley after that question.

Lucky I have an 81 RS. It's the best bike ever made actually. A giant killer.
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Old 05-24-2013, 01:29 AM   #9
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I knew I should have put a smiley after that question.

Lucky I have an 81 RS. It's the best bike ever made actually. A giant killer.
The suspension, driveline, switchgear and braking on the monoshocks are looking real attractive to me---with the high comp. dual plugged motor I have.
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Old 05-24-2013, 02:42 AM   #10
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The suspension, driveline, switchgear and braking on the monoshocks are looking real attractive to me---with the high comp. dual plugged motor I have.
Oooooh well maybe,.........but.......those wheels...
And, who cares if you can just plug in a new switchgear and not have to pull the headlight out!
Ah suspension smenshion. It's overrated. And as for splines, well, I don't use a rattle gun to put my wheel on.
That motor sounds orright tho'
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Old 05-24-2013, 12:24 PM   #11
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Like a lot of other things, bob doesn't know what he is talking about concerning brake lines but he pretty much has to not make sense on the subject since he use to go on about how steel braided teflon was no good.

'83's? I thought we figured out in a recent thread that it was '81's and '82's that had the 'horrible' center stand and it was the '83's/84's that got the revised and better centerstand? Like on a lot of other things, it appears bob is off on his centerstand info?
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Old 05-24-2013, 04:15 PM   #12
ironjack63 OP
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Thanks for the sources info. I was not asking if they were of any value, as I knew from racing friends that braided steel is much better than rubber lines since they expand under pressure. I was simply looking for a source. Thanks again for the help from those of you who helped.
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Old 05-24-2013, 05:12 PM   #13
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I had mine made at a local hydrolic line shop. It was about $30 for the only hose on my Airhead. Both my other bikes have lines I made from these Magnum Kits from MG Cycle: Very easy kit to use.
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:18 PM   #14
Plaka
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Originally Posted by ironjack63 View Post
Thanks for the sources info. I was not asking if they were of any value, as I knew from racing friends that braided steel is much better than rubber lines since they expand under pressure. I was simply looking for a source. Thanks again for the help from those of you who helped.
and when the rubber lines expand under pressure...um...then what happens? Is there less pressure?

Have you ever tried measuring that expansion...like with a micrometer? You know, just put it on the outside of the line, squeeze hard and check the diameter.
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Old 05-25-2013, 04:23 PM   #15
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and when the rubber lines expand under pressure...um...then what happens? Is there less pressure?

Have you ever tried measuring that expansion...like with a micrometer? You know, just put it on the outside of the line, squeeze hard and check the diameter.
Yes, then there is less pressure. When something gives, something gives.

No need to measure anything. You can feel a big difference through the lever.
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