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Old 08-17-2013, 05:55 PM   #736
emack
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My mug

Quote:
Originally Posted by duffs View Post
Love that!
Me too. Want to try it with coffee once I bend the plastic straw a bit.
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Old 08-17-2013, 06:02 PM   #737
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emack View Post
Me too. Want to try it with coffee once I bend the plastic straw a bit.
Even just a handy spot to stash a water bottle... I have a water bladder in my jacket but it's not nice riding 2-up when it's full and jamming me in the back.
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Old 08-18-2013, 06:04 AM   #738
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duffs View Post
Even just a handy spot to stash a water bottle... I have a water bladder in my jacket but it's not nice riding 2-up when it's full and jamming me in the back.
When needed, I keep my water bladder in my tank bag.
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Old 08-18-2013, 06:55 AM   #739
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kindofblue View Post
When needed, I keep my water bladder in my tank bag.
Good point... and idea
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Old 08-18-2013, 07:09 AM   #740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emack View Post
I haven't taken any farkle-specific pics of the bike yet, just been riding a lot. I LOVE THIS BIKE! Anyway, took some pics after I rode a couple hours up to Cabela's to pick up a couple long guns (so I mounted my hard case on the back and made the bike look like it has a wing.

Some of the farkles are:
Vario side cases
BMW rear bag, skid plate, NAV IV
Ram mounts for my phone, a mug, and my Go Pro
Rigid Industries LED driving lights
Wunderlich side stand enlarger and oil filler plug
SW-Motech upper and lower crash bars
Blue Sea Systems fuse block
X-creen windscreen spoiler
and one loud ass Steibel air horn

I'm considering the SWM uppers and mounting Rigid ind lights on them. Did they come with the mounts or what did you use? I have the SWM lower crash bars and the uppers would be more radiator protection and handy light mounts as well.
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Old 08-18-2013, 07:36 AM   #741
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinez View Post
I've talked to the vender (Who has one on his 13GSW with the D2's) and he's assured me that they work.

My next question is: What amp switch should I use to turn the lights off and on while on low beam.

I assume that he'll get back to me with that answer well before I receive the lights.
I just finish mounting mine. It has its own switch and I pull power from the nav connector on the right side for the relay so it turn off when I turn the key off.

Don't forget to order the mounting bracket for the switch (for metric bikes, don't order the one for BMW bikes, $9)



Falco888 screwed with this post 08-20-2013 at 09:43 AM Reason: add pictures
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Old 08-18-2013, 09:04 AM   #742
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Not sure if this would be classed as a farkle but I'm thinking about vinyl wrapping the red painted panels to protect from rock chips etc (maybe matt army green or something). I noticed that the panel running the length of the tank has a built-in 'tank pad'. Can anyone tell me if this is stuck on with adhesive or if it simply unbolts from behind?

Thanks!
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Old 08-18-2013, 09:11 AM   #743
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duffs View Post
Not sure if this would be classed as a farkle but I'm thinking about vinyl wrapping the red painted panels to protect from rock chips etc (maybe matt army green or something). I noticed that the panel running the length of the tank has a built-in 'tank pad'. Can anyone tell me if this is stuck on with adhesive or if it simply unbolts from behind?

Thanks!
I wish I could trade you for my white ones. :-(
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Old 08-18-2013, 09:40 AM   #744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Falco888 View Post
I wish I could trade you for my white ones. :-(
Unfortunately the bike is on a 3 year contract hire - that would certainly confuse them at the end of the term!
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Old 08-18-2013, 10:28 AM   #745
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tank pad

The tank pad snaps on.No stick um
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Old 08-18-2013, 10:29 AM   #746
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Originally Posted by jerryj View Post
The tank pad snaps on.No stick um
Thanks that's great, easier to get on the vinyl without trying to cut around it!
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Old 08-18-2013, 12:20 PM   #747
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dahveed View Post
I'm considering the SWM uppers and mounting Rigid ind lights on them. Did they come with the mounts or what did you use? I have the SWM lower crash bars and the uppers would be more radiator protection and handy light mounts as well.
I just bought p-clamps from Lowe's and they work just fine. Not pretty, but I don't really care. And the lights stay where I put them.



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Old 08-18-2013, 03:24 PM   #748
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinez View Post
I've talked to the vender (Who has one on his 13GSW with the D2's) and he's assured me that they work.

My next question is: What amp switch should I use to turn the lights off and on while on low beam.

I assume that he'll get back to me with that answer well before I receive the lights.
Yes, as previously said, the PIAA switch works very well ...IIRC, the load for two D2s is around 5 amps max. PIAA also makes a nifty switch bracket for around $20 - but you can easily make one out of alum flat stock from the hardware or hobby store. I mounted my bracket to the mirror post rather than the housing mounting bolts.

Dahveed- PIAA makes an very nice universal bracket (#74000) with which to mount lights to the crash bars.
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Old 08-18-2013, 04:20 PM   #749
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I installed an accessory socket today. The Powerlet low clearance one. I chose this instead of the BMW accessory socket because the BMW one wires up to the one in the cockpit. This means that it is controlled by the canbus and shares the same current draw limitation that the stock socket does, which could be problematic if you wear electrics in the cold weather. Additionally, the canbus shuts off the connectivity of the OEM sockets, and I wanted a socket wired straight to the battery (albeit fused) so that I can attach a trickle charger to it for the winter months.

You need to locate the hole carefully so that there is enough space for the part of the socket that protrudes into the area where it is mounted. Take great care in choosing this spot. I used a 5/8 drill bit and then hogged it out with a knife little by little until I had the hole large enough for the threaded portion to fit through.



As you run the wiring back to the battery, you'll note that with a little lifting and flexing that you can route the wires under existing bundles.



With the seat height forward adjuster pulled out of the way, it is easy to see that there is a "tunnel" of sorts that wires use to leave the under seat area. You want to run your wires through there.




As the wires run through that tunnel, they rest in a sort of plastic tray. The tray has a notch in it, and that is where I suggest your wires exit the tray and head down toward the battery. You may find that pushing a wire through the tunnel along the tray is a little easier if you pull down slightly on the tray, from the side just above the battery.



I also added a splash-proof inline fuse holder to the leads, for safety's sake. You can find them at any auto parts store.



Take extra care when attaching the positive lead. I chose to attach mine to the jump starting pin. I noticed that the area it is affixed to is insulated with rubber. It appeared to me that you need to be careful here or you will inadvertently ground the positive to the frame. So, use an appropriately sized eyelet and be careful with the angle and routing.

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Old 08-18-2013, 07:02 PM   #750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emack View Post
I just bought p-clamps from Lowe's and they work just fine. Not pretty, but I don't really care. And the lights stay where I put them.



Thanks for the details. Probably the route I'd use to.
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