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Old 06-07-2013, 11:11 AM   #16
MortimerSickle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladukebob View Post
I'd like to talk to you about this at Hells Canyon later this month.
In preparation for the trip, I am about to mount a new tire, my third tire on this setup. I hope to have good news on durability.
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:16 AM   #17
catalina38
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The K60 is by far the hardest to bead to break even with my No Mar changer. I have use perfect technique and lots of lube for the install to ensure the bead will seat.
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:17 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by vwboomer View Post
I need to get my Heidenau off so I can put on my new Karoo3.
I would really apreciate it if you could do somewhat of a running comparison of these 2. My 908 is coming to an end and I cannot decide between the K60 and the new Karoo 3.
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:18 AM   #19
MortimerSickle
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Originally Posted by ciedema View Post
These are the go http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0519/ light enough to travel with and will break the bead easily. The side or center stands also work - just make sure that you are nice and close to the rim.
I have wondered about these, but have doubts that they would help on the early rims. I think the only hope for the early rims, is a new rim.



Here is another option for later rims.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sakurama View Post
...
... I was faced with removing my tire and I had the only tire machine in the shop which is now in Portland. All that we had was two Motion Pro tire irons. Necessity is the mother of discover here and I learned how to break a bead with these so I thought I'd share it here:



Stack the irons just like this - one on top of the other.



Press down. I was sort of amazed at how easy it was. I searched all over to see if that was the way they were designed and I couldn't find any info or instructions but I've owned these irons for years and never knew you could do this. In fact I've used the side stand method even though I've had a pair of these right next to me. So now you know - Motion Pro 16" curved irons make perfect bead breakers.
...
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:29 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GJ990 View Post
I would really apreciate it if you could do somewhat of a running comparison of these 2. My 908 is coming to an end and I cannot decide between the K60 and the new Karoo 3.

Will do.
I had heard great things about the longevity of the K60. It's all bullshit granted I put on a 140 instead of the 150 because it was all that was available and I needed it, but I ended up with a whopping 4k miles out of it. That's crap for $170 tire.
If the Karoo3 lasts me til the end of my tip (roughly 3500 miles) I will be far ahead at only $90 for it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MortimerSickle View Post
I have wondered about these, but have doubts that they would help on the early rims. I think the only hope for the early rims, is a new rim.



Here is another option for later rims.
I will give the stacked irons a try tomorrow. But honestly if the weight of the truck wasn't enough leverage to push the bead down....
I have heard some of you'se guys grinding down that safety bead. While grinding on a wheel seems like a bad idea, it may be the only option to facilitate field changes.
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:38 AM   #21
beewill
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Had a hell of a time last night trying to get my Scorpion off, as well as the first time I have done the rear on my 2004. If you guys are saying the earlier rims were harder with the added safty bead I'll feel a little less like a bitch today then. Not much, but alittle.

In the end I gave up and took it to the dealer this morning to put on my new Mefo.
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:46 AM   #22
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Which Karoo 3? The 140 is only $95 and the 150 is double the price at $193. The 140 is a tube type and the 150 is tubeless. I'm going to try the 140 when my 908 wears out. The pics I've seen of the 140 on an Adventure don't look too stretched or squared off. At half the price, even if they only last 4000-5000 miles, I won't care.

I picked up a huge nail in my 908 and I had to have a tire machine break the bead. It was damn near melted to the wheel. I really want to do tubeless in the rear at least.
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:49 AM   #23
ciedema
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Originally Posted by MortimerSickle View Post
I have wondered about these, but have doubts that they would help on the early rims. I think the only hope for the early rims, is a new rim.
How early is early? My '04 950 and '11 990 have the same size safety bead.
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:54 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon6.0 View Post
Which Karoo 3? The 140 is only $95 and the 150 is double the price at $193. The 140 is a tube type and the 150 is tubeless. I'm going to try the 140 when my 908 wears out. The pics I've seen of the 140 on an Adventure don't look too stretched or squared off. At half the price, even if they only last 4000-5000 miles, I won't care.

I picked up a huge nail in my 908 and I had to have a tire machine break the bead. It was damn near melted to the wheel. I really want to do tubeless in the rear at least.

I ordered the Karoo3 in 140. 150 was not available, and, like you said, at half the price, it's a steal.
I have a Tractionator I may run later in the year. But truth be told, I have it on my 300 EXC, and it put me on my ass this morning going around a corner
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:55 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by vwboomer View Post
Will do.
I had heard great things about the longevity of the K60. It's all bullshit granted I put on a 140 instead of the 150 because it was all that was available and I needed it, but I ended up with a whopping 4k miles out of it. That's crap for $170 tire.
That is interesting - I ran a 150 and got 8,000 miles from it and probably could done another 1-2,000 if I really needed to. 140 I only got a 3,000 miles it is almost out of tread in the middle. Maybe the big difference is the 150 is TL and the 140 is a TT.
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Old 06-07-2013, 12:24 PM   #26
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http://www.pashnit.com/product/beadbrakr.html
$170 but works great I keep it with my tubes and pump
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Old 06-07-2013, 12:38 PM   #27
MortimerSickle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ciedema View Post
How early is early? My '04 950 and '11 990 have the same size safety bead.
I don't know when the bead change was done, nor do I know first-hand whether they actually did change.

I found the following in the HOW.

Quote:
Model year differences:
KOTH: The following differences between model years are related to the actual year of manufacture of the bike, not the year on the registration. KTM's model year runs from June to May. For example, A true 2004 bike was manufactured between June 1, 2003 and May 31, 2004. A true 2005 bike between June 1, 2004 and May 31, 2005, etc, etc. There are were a few instances when bikes with even earlier build dates were shipped as later year models. Whether this was due to an effort to clean out inventory or a need to meet production demands, the latest updates should have been done before they left the Factory. Still, it behooves the owner of such a bike to carefully go over it to make sure all pertinent Tech Bulletins have been taken care of.
The bikes are registered in their destination countries as the year they are delivered to the dealer. I don't know how other countries do it, but KTMNA has been known to keep bikes in their warehouse for six months and release them to the dealers after the start of the New Year. So just cuz your bike's registration says you have an '04, '05, '06, '07, etc. Doesn't necessarily mean you do. Many of the differences listed below are visible upon close examination of your bike. That and the build date from the KTM Dealer-Net are the surest way to tell the actual year of your Katoom. The designation XXXX.5 is not used in KTM's documentation to denote actual year of build, so look for yourself, if you really want to know (important for certain maintenance and tech Bulletins).
Differences between 2003 and 2004 Adventures (USA) (6/03-5/04):
Added black bikes and blue bikes to the line up (1/04-5/04)
Black wheels (1/04-5/04)
Color matched front fender (1/04-5/04)
Different fork legs
Different rear shock
Added carb vents to the canister system
New oil tank
New fuel pump
New crankshaft and rods
New cylinders
New oil pressure switch
New pulse generator
New ignition rotor
New clutch pushrod (600.32.054.100)
New outer clutch hub
Maybe the change came with the black wheels. Mine are silver. I have the earliest model, the one with the bluish silver paint.
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Old 06-07-2013, 01:12 PM   #28
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Spray around the edge of the tire with WD40 and work it into the bead with the tire irons just pushing the sidewall a bit away from the rim.

This will help at least lube the bead for removal.
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Old 06-07-2013, 02:13 PM   #29
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Just ride it flat, put wheel on, no air, ride it round until it pops or try a little burnout, breaks every time for a pita bead.
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Old 06-07-2013, 05:13 PM   #30
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I've busted off many types of beads over the years, now I just take them to the shop, fuck the busted knuckles.

But, in the end, I use an 8 foot 4x4 or 2x4, a 16 or 18 inch piece of 4x4 and lever down on it against the bottom of my truck bumper and the short piece of 4x4. It s worked every time. And a kickstand will usually work, too, but the bumper trick always works.
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