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Old 06-11-2013, 01:18 PM   #16
broncobowsher
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If the compressor went boom inside, it typically sprays debris through the whole system. Just putting a new compressor on will be an expensive short term fix. Like putting a new engine in but putting the used oil back in it.

Some systems can be flushed, which generally removes most of the debris. Many times parts cannot be effectivley flushed and must be replaced. The evaporator box inside the dash is often a very labor intensive job, labor isn't cheap anymore. Add in toyota is generally proud of there parts. I can see an easy grand in parts (compressor, evaporator, condensor, accumulator, expansion valve) and at that point you might as well play it safe and just spend a few more bucks and get new hoses to make it a truely new and clean system. Yes, I can completely see $2k+ to properly fix the A/C system.

As for the comments about gutting a compressor to use it as an idler, they have no idea how the clutch system on an A/c compressor works. The pulley is already an idler, it only engages the compressor when the magnetic clutch is energized.

I have encountered several A/C system with "black death". When the compressor gives up and sprays fine gritty black goo through the whole system. There is no cheap easy good fix for it. If it isn't fixed right it WILL fail again and fail soon and be expensive all over again.
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Old 06-11-2013, 02:55 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by broncobowsher View Post
I have encountered several A/C system with "black death".
I've read that that's from mixing incompatible oils. I think mixing mineral oil and polyester oil is the main culprit, and usually comes about from trying to convert an R-12 system to R-134a.
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Old 06-11-2013, 08:04 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by madeouttaglass View Post
The compressor on my 2001 Tacoma seized up recently. When you turn it on the clutch tries to engage and it smokes. The truck is otherwise in mint condition and I'd like to have everything right. While we only need A/C a few weeks a year it also goes on with the defroster which we need about six months a year. The estimate is about 1/4 the book value of the truck. Any less expensive alternatives besides taking the belt off?

Unplug the wire that engages the clutch. Your AC compressor is now an idler pulley.
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Old 06-11-2013, 08:37 PM   #19
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I spent $660 to get my compressor replaced and the system fixed up on my 1999 Ford... only to have the blend door finally lock closed (so - heat only). It's bill-able for an eleven-hour job to take the dash all the way off to get at the door.

I figured I'd get to it some day, but years later I'm still running around with no AC despite having good parts.


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Old 06-11-2013, 08:44 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by madeouttaglass View Post
The compressor on my 2001 Tacoma seized up recently. When you turn it on the clutch tries to engage and it smokes. The truck is otherwise in mint condition and I'd like to have everything right. While we only need A/C a few weeks a year it also goes on with the defroster which we need about six months a year. The estimate is about 1/4 the book value of the truck. Any less expensive alternatives besides taking the belt off?
that's way too high!!!

there's several options .. find an AC compressor shop that rebuilds compressors. or Orielly, Autozone, etc usually stocks a reman compressor.

AC work is equipment intensive. anytime an AC hose is removed, orings need to be replaced. replace all Orings when compressor is apart. you will be sorry later if you don't.

if refrigerant is all gone, treat compressor replacement like any other major part. after compressor is installed, take to a shop to finish.

best is to find a shop that reasonable $$$ and you trust.... let them do it all ...
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Old 06-11-2013, 08:59 PM   #21
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I paid $1200 for a shop to replace the A/C on my 1997 Tacoma in 2007. The compressor completely blew up and not only did I need to have the compressor replaced the Evaporator replaced as well.

If the compressor really blew and is not just a bad clutch or bearing; you might need the evaporator or condenser replaced as well if not throughly flushed out. I looked into doing the job myself but it seemed like a major pain in the ass.
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:18 PM   #22
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It all depends on how the compressor seized. On my 1997 Ranger the A/C worked great and then I didn't use it for an entire winter. The first hot day of spring I engaged it and got the same symptom you describe - no turney and belt squeal.

Since it didn't go boom while running, there was a good chance that the compressor just got stuck from moisture / rust. I figured it was worth the $200 for a new Rock Auto compressor, followed by a trip to the shop for a cleanout and re-charge. Been going great for 18 months now.

YMMV, of course!
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Old 06-12-2013, 12:53 AM   #23
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I've installed A/C into a vehicle that didn't have it before. Spend about $1000 on all the parts. Installed it then paid $125 to have is vacuum tested and filled with 2lbs of R134a. Then when summer came around (this year) it didn't work. Ended up spending another $150 in a vacuum pump, manifolds and about $40 for 6 12oz cans of R134a. Fixed the hose issue. It was leaking at a crimp. (had $100 crimper on had already) Vacuum tested it for 24hrs (they only tested it for 15 to 20 minutes) and filled it. Now it works and doesn't leak. Typically, if the system has been open to air or contamination you'll want to replace the dryer. Everything eventually dumps into there eventually. It contains desiccant to pull moisture out of the system. If you're replacing the compressor (usually around $300) you'll need to add oil to it. I wouldn't get a junkyard compressor unless the system was sealed still. In the long run it's probably cheaper to just buy a new compressor. Dryers are usually pretty cheap too. If the clutch locks up then the system still had a charge. If the pressure dropped the clutch won't engage.

I'm betting a bearing seized on your compressor. Hopefully there isn't any contamination. If the system still has pressure then you're probably OK. You'll want to get the system evacuated. Swap the compressor, refill the oil then vacuum test and refill with R134a. You might want to replace the small O-rings on the fittings while you're there as well. If you're mechanically inclined you could buy a vacuum compressor and manifolds and get some cans of R134a for under $200 like I did.
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Old 06-12-2013, 01:56 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by broncobowsher View Post
If the compressor went boom inside, it typically sprays debris through the whole system. Just putting a new compressor on will be an expensive short term fix. Like putting a new engine in but putting the used oil back in it.

Some systems can be flushed, which generally removes most of the debris. Many times parts cannot be effectivley flushed and must be replaced. The evaporator box inside the dash is often a very labor intensive job, labor isn't cheap anymore. Add in toyota is generally proud of there parts. I can see an easy grand in parts (compressor, evaporator, condensor, accumulator, expansion valve) and at that point you might as well play it safe and just spend a few more bucks and get new hoses to make it a truely new and clean system. Yes, I can completely see $2k+ to properly fix the A/C system.

As for the comments about gutting a compressor to use it as an idler, they have no idea how the clutch system on an A/c compressor works. The pulley is already an idler, it only engages the compressor when the magnetic clutch is energized.

I have encountered several A/C system with "black death". When the compressor gives up and sprays fine gritty black goo through the whole system. There is no cheap easy good fix for it. If it isn't fixed right it WILL fail again and fail soon and be expensive all over again.
yes most all above is true .. but that compressor failure could just as easily be a simple locked up compressor without sending debris all over system.

seems a bit extreme to bill someone a worst case scenario before even pulling the system down first. if it was me working on the AC, I'd evacuate system by reclaiming existing refrigerant.

unfortunately most folks including a LOT of shops will simply vent existing refrigerant. next is to yank compressor to look for evidence of debris. then take compressor to local re builder, they will be able to tell if compressor has scattered.

generally it's about same cost to purchase a reman compressor as to have it rebuilt.

if compressor repair guy gives you the bad news... then next is to take out fixed orifice to inspect for crap inside AC hoses. filter/drier has to be replaced. then next is to flush out lines both directions multiple times.

generally costs to get at evaporator inside your dash is $$$$ it's not unusual for that job to take 10 hours+ ...

but again replacing it all is worst case scenario... you could just as likely to only need a new reman compressor, new filter/dryer, vacuum down to under 500 microns, then refill with correct refrigerant and be done.

unfortunately working on air conditioning systems is very equipment intensive....
here's a decent how to recover from black death


_cy_ screwed with this post 06-12-2013 at 02:09 AM
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Old 06-12-2013, 08:31 AM   #25
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When my compressor blew up last summer (Tucson - 100+ for weeks at a time), I took the plunge and got a new compressor, drier, filter and evap on ebay and installed them myself. I took it to a shop to be charged. Works like a champ! The parts cost $400 and the servicing was about $80.

This was on a 2001 Toyota Echo. YMMV.

AZ
Same here. The auto repair shop next my office wanted the address of the eBay company selling the parts. It was still working two years later when I sold the Cherokee.

The down side:




Seats and carpet were out for a different reason - but you get the idea.
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Old 06-12-2013, 10:34 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by AZstrommer View Post
When my compressor blew up last summer (Tucson - 100+ for weeks at a time), I took the plunge and got a new compressor, drier, filter and evap on ebay and installed them myself. I took it to a shop to be charged. Works like a champ! The parts cost $400 and the servicing was about $80.

This was on a 2001 Toyota Echo. YMMV.

AZ
Do you still have the company info? There are lots on ebay.
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Old 06-12-2013, 09:24 PM   #27
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rockauto.com

I am in similar predicament. I cracked opened my a/c, and by the time i was done, i need steering box seal kit, new power steering pump and lines...
about $600 in parts... not bad for not having a payment for the rest of the year.

Compressor............... $200
Drier........................ $20
Orifice Tube.............. $40
R134a Charge............ $40
O-Ring Kit................. $10
Complete PS System... $150
Steering box seal kit... $40
New Belt................... $30
Idle Tensioner............ $30

shit.. might as well, while you are there...
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Old 06-13-2013, 01:37 AM   #28
spagthorpe
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Repalce the compressor yourself, order a new one from Rock Auto. Hook all both hoses and the one wire back on and find an independant A/C shop to evac and charge and you will be out maybe a total of $400 instead.

Stop by the local auto parts house and see if they have a, A/C bypass pulley for around $30.

This is exactly what I'm probably going to do here soon on my Blazer. Some friends just spent $1200 on getting it done at a shop, but I have better plans for the cash. It's insane that a place can ask for $2200 for that job. On a Tacoma, which is about the easiest thing in the world to work on.
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Old 06-13-2013, 06:41 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by papalobster View Post
Repalce the compressor yourself, order a new one from Rock Auto. Hook all both hoses and the one wire back on and find an independant A/C shop to evac and charge and you will be out maybe a total of $400 instead.

Stop by the local auto parts house and see if they have a, A/C bypass pulley for around $30.
+1 but you need to make sure you swap out the drier? too. I'm told that's important. You should be able to get that thing blowing cold again for a long time to come for $500
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:16 AM   #30
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I bought all of my A/C parts from these guys through their eBay store. They were great to deal with. I was sweating the service and quality given the prices. But the mechanics next door started using them for some of their A/C parts because they are cheaper than wholesale. The parts weren't all oem and they don't have the selection of Rock Auto. But with a Chrysler/Jeep A/C system not getting oem parts was probably a good thing.

http://www.apeautoparts.com/
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