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Old 06-17-2013, 01:16 PM   #16
GPS MAN
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Hey Mark ~ yea, finally ditched the bicycle air pump for a direct drive AC model.

I just use mine for airing up tires or is that tyres?

Now, I have to get onto Bart about a trip down
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Old 06-19-2013, 08:59 PM   #17
innathyzit
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Originally Posted by motu View Post
Put a big tank on a small compressor and it'll take ages to fill up - use high capacity air tools like a die grinder, impact gun or spray gun and it'll never fill up. Volume, you need air flow to make things work. After more than 40 years of using the standard ARO couplings, I'm now in a shop that uses the high flow NITTO fittings - what a difference! I converted 9 airtools over, I never used to use my 3/8 impact as it was a gutless wonder, now it's a little powerhouse. We also use a bigger hose and couplings for the 3/4 gun, it's a brute with that much airflow behind it.


Plus one on the Nitto fittings. Have seen a few workshops converted and now swear by them.
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Old 06-22-2013, 10:47 PM   #18
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just some follow-up info for those who are interested

The $28 rattle gun (along with $20 clutch hub holding tool from t7) wizzed of the klr clutch hub nut without problems.

The air gun dislodged the crap blocking the idle jet on my old klr after all my previous non air attempts had failed. The air gun also made installing new grips a 30 second as side job (although I learned that you don't leave the throttle grip just sitting on the end of the throttle tube while you blow on the clutch side as you pressurize the bars and fire the throttle grip a looong way - took quite a while to find it....

I also brought a stanley 1/4" drive air wrench and its great for wizzing in/out 8-10mm nuts and bolts - saves a reasonable amount of time.

All in all a great success.

Thanks again for all the advice

Mark
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Old 06-22-2013, 10:59 PM   #19
Padmei
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I was thinking today I should get one. Can you get all the allen key attachments too?
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Old 06-22-2013, 11:25 PM   #20
NordieBoy
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Repco do an allen key set in 3/8th's drive.
I want a set in 1/4" for the little torque wrench.
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Old 06-22-2013, 11:26 PM   #21
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Air and hand grips go together like bread, peanut butter, banana and curry powder.
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Old 06-22-2013, 11:30 PM   #22
Micawberism
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Air and hand grips go together like bread, peanut butter, banana and curry powder.
You put peanut butter on your bread
Must be a sowf ilan thing
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Old 06-23-2013, 12:28 AM   #23
Padmei
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What brand rattle gun did you get?

I've had a look at a few local reviews & there are a lot of disgruntled cheap gun owners out there. Sure you get what you pay for but geez the good ones are worth a fortune. They wanted to use them for wheel nuts etc. i was wondering if it was actually worth it to fork out the $50 bucks or so or just save the frustration & buy some kit kat bars instead.

I'm thinking the only use is to try to free some of those frozen bolts on the bike a bit quicker - mostly 10 - 15mm.
I take it you have to use the heavy thick black sockets with them too?

I don't have a problem with cheap tools. i once bought a $32 Mitre 10 hammer drill for a one off job - it was leaking grease out of it even in the shop & it eventually lasted about 4 years - 2 years longer than my $800 bosch battery drill.

Anyone else had long term experience with one?
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Old 06-23-2013, 02:48 AM   #24
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What brand rattle gun did you get?
its a SCA branded one - they are getting out of that brand and are half pricing them - I'm tempted to buy a spare for when the first one shits itself. It's also been fine on axle nuts (19mm & 27mm).

I don't think you really need the special sockets - just 6 sided sockets - which I always try and buy anyway as they seem to mark the bolts less.
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Old 06-23-2013, 12:53 PM   #25
Padmei
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Good old kawasaki with their fancy 8 sided bolts. You'd think they would try to get something the same as the rest of the world
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Old 06-23-2013, 02:08 PM   #26
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Good old kawasaki with their fancy 8 sided bolts. You'd think they would try to get something the same as the rest of the world

my nuts are pretty special as well
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Old 06-26-2013, 12:44 AM   #27
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Ok.
Went to sca the other day & asked about rattle guns. My sca blackridge compressor is 112L/m & the minimum on the $40 rattle gun box is 120l/M. I asked the fella there & he said don't even bother trying - not enough torque. I like salespeople that are honest enough to lose a sale.

So I bought instead a 4 way chuck key for my sca drill press & some other bits & pieces.

Got home & the chuck key is good for FA - more powder coating than metal on it. You'd think with 4 sizes on it one of them would work.

I also stopped into Repco & got a cheap 2 leg puller for my cranshaft sprocket - that bent whilst pulling the sprocket exactly 0mm.


Yep going by the cheap pieces of shit I bought that day I'm glad I didn't bother with the rattle gun.

Trouble is I've bought expensive shit that is just as bad as cheap shit.

Luck of the draw sometimes I guess.
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Old 06-26-2013, 01:27 AM   #28
innathyzit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
Ok.
Went to sca the other day & asked about rattle guns. My sca blackridge compressor is 112L/m & the minimum on the $40 rattle gun box is 120l/M. I asked the fella there & he said don't even bother trying - not enough torque. I like salespeople that are honest enough to lose a sale.

So I bought instead a 4 way chuck key for my sca drill press & some other bits & pieces.

Got home & the chuck key is good for FA - more powder coating than metal on it. You'd think with 4 sizes on it one of them would work.

I also stopped into Repco & got a cheap 2 leg puller for my cranshaft sprocket - that bent whilst pulling the sprocket exactly 0mm.


Yep going by the cheap pieces of shit I bought that day I'm glad I didn't bother with the rattle gun.

Trouble is I've bought expensive shit that is just as bad as cheap shit.

Luck of the draw sometimes I guess.

Their is definitely cheap shite out there ,ask me how I know, but with your sprocket the tons needed to get it moving may well have exceeded the pullers designed strength. I have buckled floor presses pressing gears off, and they really go bang when they release and then take a lot less pressure to press off from then on.

Marks, how is the old KLR? was it as bad as you thought? or is their something you are not telling us?
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Old 06-26-2013, 02:10 AM   #29
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Marks, how is the old KLR? was it as bad as you thought? or is their something you are not telling us?
yes there is something I have been keeping quiet about

this one is more than a bit embarrassing....

the terminal engine knock (well more of a knack really) that was the primary reason I decided to quit the bike completely disappeared after I adjusted the balancer chain tensioner (aka doohickey). Totally transformed the bike.

I wonder if the prior times that I've adjusted it I didn't back of the nut enough to allow the spring to take up the chain slack?

I'm just getting an engineer to fix the front hub (which the speedo drive ate when it seized) and it will be ready to sell.

I am wondering how much difference in value there would be in sale price if I put the unbroken fairing, unmarked and non rat chewed (hungry little fookers ate right through the side plastic) plastics and undented tank on it? if it turned a $4k bike into a $5k bike I might be tempted.
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Old 06-26-2013, 03:11 AM   #30
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You are a true spanner. Not a cheap spanner either, one of those Stahlwille ones.
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