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Old 06-17-2013, 12:34 PM   #16
teddy_kgb OP
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I test road a DR today. It took forever for me to kick start it, even the seller had trouble getting it started. Is that normal? He said it usually starts right up for him. I took it on the highway for a minute, I got it up to 65mph, there was no shakiness, though it felt like a good stiff wind would blow me away. But at that speed I was getting uncomfortably close to redline. Redline is 9000 and I was hitting like 8200. It felt like I was hurting the engine. I get what TNC is saying now about the XR250, if the 350 engine was struggling at 65 then the 250 air-cooled would be really struggling.

I can't help but feel a 250 water cooled would be better on the highway. And the only one in my affordability list is the KLR. Maybe I should just pony up the cash and get the KLX and have the best of both worlds. Which then makes me wish I could have the WR250F with a 6-speed, is it possible to put a 6-speed tranny on the WR? But I digress.

I think I'm going to have to test ride a KLR250 to be clear that the DR is best suited for me.
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Old 06-17-2013, 12:57 PM   #17
Gryphon12
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DR350 Summary...

I frequently take notes when reading the longer threads. Here is what I have from the DR350 thread:

DR350 Thread - Model Info Post #13,000 (yep!)
In response to ambiguity in 1995 Model nomenclature, even in factory fiche
YearDirt ModelStreet Model
1990NoneDR350S(L)Year code "L"
1991DR350(M)DR350S(M)Year code "M"
1992DR350(N)DR350S(N)Year code "O" (letter, not number)
1993DR350(P)DR350S(P)Year code "P"; now same a street code?
1994DR350[R]DR350SE[R]Year code "R"; elec start std on Street '94 on…
1995DR350(S)DR350SE(S)Year code "S"
1996DR350(T)DR350SE(T)Year code "T"
1997DR350(V)DR350SE(V)Year code "V"
1998DR350(W)DR350SE(W)Year code "W"
1999DR350(X)DR350SE(X)Year code "X"
2000DR350(Y)DR350SE(Y)Year code "Y"
2001DR350(K1)DR350SE(K1)Year code "K1"
Comments:
'98 & '99 have improved cartridge forks & adj shocks.
'98 & '99 dirt=pumper carb; street=CV carb.
In USA, '98 & '99 SE have both electric start and dirt suspension.
- Street better alternator due to e-start batt '94 on…
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Old 06-17-2013, 01:43 PM   #18
itsatdm
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If is was kick start, I assume it was the dirt version. Street vs dirt had different gearing over the years. It doesn't surprise me you were near maxed out.

Water cooled engines have tighter tolerances which may or may not result in more power. The Dr's have an air/oil cooled engine. They rarely over heat.

I wish I had mine back. Simple, lots of aftermarket, reliable. I would search for a later model SE with the electric start and get a 98/99 version if I could. You can make them into anything you want.

A KLR650 is a whole different bike, by at least 100lbs. If most of your travel is pavement or hard pack, go buy one. You can't go wrong. The 350 will leave it on most dirt. If you don't think so, break out your wallet. Most every KLR posted in the rough stuff has all kinds of aftermarket parts to enable it to do what you see. Nothing wrong with that, just don't be surprised.

I had the luxury of riding a stock one out in Death Valley a few year ago. I covered every imaginable bit of terrain. It was like a barca lounger on wash boarded hard pack, scary in sand and gravel and vibrated every part of my body above 65 mph. But you can fix that.

If you are going to open this up to everything under 650cc. I like Japanese bikes because they are reliable. Want a cheap sub 650 bike, look at a DRZ 400. Enough HP to do some pavement. Heavy for its size, short coupled gearing, but good enough for a lot of off road.

Want to tear up the dirt? Look at the Euro bikes. You can't go wrong with a pre 2007 KTM 530. Going to do a lot of pavement? You can't beat a 650cc bike. I like the Husky 610, a KLX 650 if you don't mind lack of parts, a DR650, a F650 or its derivatives, and finally a KLR650 in that order.
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itsatdm screwed with this post 06-17-2013 at 02:28 PM
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Old 06-17-2013, 02:17 PM   #19
tpark
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Puke

I had a mid 90's DR 350 and after putting the pumper carb on it, it was still junk and hard to start. It didn't handle well either. I had read how great they were before buying one, but I didn't like it. A friend, that had one before, rode mine and said his was much better. Mine must have been built on a Monday. I would go for the TTR.
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Old 06-17-2013, 08:01 PM   #20
teddy_kgb OP
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Just Found a DR350 with Big Bore Kit

So, tomorrow morning I'm going to look at a 94 DR 350 that just came up for $1495. It is the non-SE (dirt version - converted to street legal) model, and as such it is kick start with no speedometer/odometer - which kind of sucks. And I have no idea how many miles are on it.

New questions:

I wanted a 250 and now I'm going up to a 425 (or thereabouts), I didn't want the extra CCs. My big concern is mpg, and how much worse fuel economy will the 425 get? Your probably thinking what's the big deal with a few less mpg, I know. But my argument to my girlfriend, who does not want me to get one at all because of the danger factor, was that I would be saving a bunch of money on gas for my commute.

Is it better to have the dirt version vs the street version?

Can I put a speedometer/odometer on for cheap/easy?

The guy selling it is 71 and is second owner (bought from friend) and has had the bike for about 12 years and has taken good care of it. He had not started it until yesterday for 4 months and said it started right up.

I wish it did not have the big bore, should I be concerned about that?

I know I'm sounding like a blathering fool, but I'm pretty excited because I think I'm going to buy this one.
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Old 06-17-2013, 08:29 PM   #21
tntmo
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The 94 and newer dirt model would be my first recommendation. They changed to an auto-decompression cam and changed the kick start ratio in 94, it will start worlds easier than the 90-93 models.

Also, in 94 they upgraded the front suspension to cartridge model forks for the dirt model. Much improved compared to the earlier suspension.

It's really easy to add a speedometer, the bike has an speedometer/odometer drive so any speedometer for a 21" wheel will work.

I owned a 94 with a 435cc kit, pumper carb and aftermarket exhaust, it still got 50mpg and had awesome power compared to the stock engine. You can run a tooth larger on the front sprocket and cruise the highway without revving the piss out of it.

The dirt version is significantly lighter than the street model. My current DR350 is a street plated 98 dirt model. It weighs less than my Husky TE450 and less than my WR450.

Buy it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by teddy_kgb View Post
So, tomorrow morning I'm going to look at a 94 DR 350 that just came up for $1495. It is the non-SE (dirt version - converted to street legal) model, and as such it is kick start with no speedometer/odometer - which kind of sucks. And I have no idea how many miles are on it.

New questions:

I wanted a 250 and now I'm going up to a 425 (or thereabouts), I didn't want the extra CCs. My big concern is mpg, and how much worse fuel economy will the 425 get? Your probably thinking what's the big deal with a few less mpg, I know. But my argument to my girlfriend, who does not want me to get one at all because of the danger factor, was that I would be saving a bunch of money on gas for my commute.

Is it better to have the dirt version vs the street version?

Can I put a speedometer/odometer on for cheap/easy?

The guy selling it is 71 and is second owner (bought from friend) and has had the bike for about 12 years and has taken good care of it. He had not started it until yesterday for 4 months and said it started right up.

I wish it did not have the big bore, should I be concerned about that?

I know I'm sounding like a blathering fool, but I'm pretty excited because I think I'm going to buy this one.
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Old 06-19-2013, 08:45 AM   #22
teddy_kgb OP
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Just wanted to give an update and say thanks for all the good advice on this board. I bought the 94 DR350, ended up paying $1300 which compared to what I've seen around this area is a good deal.

I like the bike so far, though have not really ridden it much yet. I get now why people are always saying get the E start, never understood why that was such a concern but now I get it. The front steering seams a bit heavy for a dirt bike, but since this is my first bike I have nothing to compare it to. Definitely a lot of low end power.

Looking forward to fixing it up/sprucing it up, and seeing if the basic mods have been done. First thing is put a rear turn signal and get better rear view mirror.

Thanks again.
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