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Old 06-17-2013, 11:15 PM   #1
Nailhead OP
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Question A Better Brake Pad?

I just know these brakes should be better than they are now: wooden lever/pedal feel with little eagerness to stop.

The lever/pedal feel is fine, i.e., they hold pressure & otherwise don't feel like they need to be bled, so I discount that as the root of the problem. They just work like the pads are made of UHMW. The stock pads are not worn out-- plenty of meat on 'em.

Last year, when I had a similar complaint with my PU brakes, I installed a set of aftermarket pads & the improvement was astonishing.

Is there an aftermarket brake pad for the 990 I can expect similar results from?
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Old 06-17-2013, 11:42 PM   #2
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My SM has the radial calipers, one finger stands it on the front wheel. But my old Duc, had the standard Brembo Gold Line calipers , I put Braking brand, full organic pads on it, mainly because in my opinion, semi-metallics eat the rotors much faster than organics, and they had a nice bite, and about the same power as the Brembo stock pads. Real good feel, easy to modulate.
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:32 AM   #3
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I ride with the stock pads and my brakes are fine. I have to watch it not to lock the rear on tar. I have never found the front to lack stopping power or feel.

When was the last time the brake fluid was flushed and new brake fluid put into the brake system?

Mine is a 2007 AdvS as well.
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Old 06-18-2013, 06:04 AM   #4
Orangecicle
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I hated the sound of the stock pads on the stock rotors. The thing screeched horribly when stopping. I put EBC reds on, and no more problems. They wear quickly, but I'm happy with how they stop. Most importantly, no more braking noise.
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Old 06-18-2013, 06:10 AM   #5
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I liked the Galfer organics on my SM--Blacks in the rear and green in front. Progressive feel with decent wear and no squeak. Proably not the setup if you do a lot of mud riding
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Old 06-18-2013, 06:35 AM   #6
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Brakes not up to par

I tend to agree with Wildehond that the brakes may need bleeding. I also have a 2007 and bleeding did improve the brake feel. The Adventure as you know only has two piston floating calipers so not a lot of clamping force can be expected or wanted on an Adventure bike. Had intended to change the pads to something with more bite only to find that HH pads are fitted as stock and they have very good bite. Two up with luggage and the bike does feel a little under braked but in the dirt I had way sufficient stopping power to over come the tires. I also have a 950 SM which has the four piston four pad Brembo calipers. Way different brake feel and way different mission objective.

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Old 06-18-2013, 09:13 AM   #7
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I know if I ride aggressively on the street I can fade the brakes to the point of them being useless and that's with rbf600 and stock pads but I hope a more aggressive set of pads will remedy that issue
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:44 AM   #8
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I wasn't that impressed with my 950adv front brakes either. Looking at them I always felt they should be better but serious stopping power was just not possible with only 2 fingers.

I just cleaned the callipers and piston walls. Cleaned a re-greased the mounting posts. Changed the fluid. Scotchbrighted the discs ('rotors' to all West of the pond) and gave them a good scrub with fine emery too. Finished off with EBC pads. (can't remember which type but I could and need to find out).

Front brake is now amazing! Works like it should. 2 fingers would lock it. One finger now does the job mostly and buries the front.

I'd rather have pads that wear out but actually work. I suppose a manufacturer has to make a system that lasts between servicing and pleases most. So based on what I did, there's not much that I felt needs changing or upgraded, only a good service and pads that wear out.
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:45 AM   #9
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dont know where you would get them your side of the pond but try Carbone Lorraine pads they do them for the 950/990 and I have always found them great pads.
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Old 06-18-2013, 10:26 AM   #10
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Sorry Nailhead I forgot to mention the rear brake. I did the same to the rear but kept the OEM pads. I've never like the rear brake that much. It still squeels sometimes but it does work, although I've had it go all the way down at times. I believe it had it's master cyl internals upgraded at first service but I may have to go for a new later master cyl and EBC pads at some stage.

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Old 06-18-2013, 11:35 PM   #11
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Thanks for the input, everyone-- I ordered a set of Galfers after exhaustively evaluating as many other options as are available to me (i.e., no CL 990-compatible pads sold here in the US, apparently).
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Old 06-19-2013, 02:57 AM   #12
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I use the EBC red graphites on the rear, basically cos their easy to get here.

They don't last long, but that is less wear on the disk. Better in the wet than stock. Nail the only way I found to bleed the rear as I don't have a vacume kit is to reverse bleed from the calliper nipple. I cant get the rear to feel right bleeding in the normal method.
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Old 06-20-2013, 01:50 AM   #13
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I kind of figured the same bas-ackwards bleediing procedure as needed for the clutch master cylinder would be required for the rear brake.

I'm gonna wait on the brake bleeding-- I just don't think that's the problem here, as I stated above.
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Old 06-21-2013, 06:41 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nailhead View Post
I kind of figured the same bas-ackwards bleediing procedure as needed for the clutch master cylinder would be required for the rear brake.

I'm gonna wait on the brake bleeding-- I just don't think that's the problem here, as I stated above.
I think also heat is an issue....But KTM says you can't use the high temp race silicon stuff.

edit...just found this...45 quid a litre.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/castr...srf-racing.pdf
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Old 06-21-2013, 04:51 PM   #15
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dont know where you would get them your side of the pond but try Carbone Lorraine pads they do them for the 950/990 and I have always found them great pads.
I like those pads on my 950, I found them on Ebay, quite reasonable. They're wearing really well too, 20k miles on them so far and quite a bit of life to go.

It makes a huge difference (more than the pad change for me) to take the calipers off the disc and cycle all the pistons by pumping the lever, then pushing the pistons back in. Clean off any gunk or rust on the pistons when they're pushed out a bit, then grease the pins the calipers slide on and make sure the travel is smooth. Then flush the brake fluid. All this doesn't really take that long, and it can make a huge difference.
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