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Old 06-18-2013, 09:40 AM   #16
AntonLargiader
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Until then, I would just take the blunt side of a knife with some thin cloth over it and sweep out the seal area. Might be all you need.
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:45 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Malindi View Post
Yikes! No, I don't want to do that with just a tool kit ... :-)
I'll go take a hard look at it tomorrow morning and see what size of puller I can source here.
Thanks guys!
If you can't source a real puller, I've had success using a small drill to make a pilot hole and then driving a drywall screw into the seal. Three screws, 120deg apart and pull on them with pliers a little bit at a time. Use a block of wood as a seal driver and just work your way around as you tap it in.
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:18 PM   #18
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I think I'll be able to source a puller here. I took a closer look this morning and cleaned everything up afterwards.

This is the leak:



Notice the small puddle and streaming oil around the tire.

The entire circumference of the final drive had signs of oil. The top vent stuff is not oil, it's old oil and dirt mixed.



Inside of the wheel. Next to no oil. Shoes and running surface was dry.



It looks like the oil came from around the seal. Noticed it dripped all down.



After cleaning it up, I pushed back the seal a bit as Anton suggested. You can see there is some gunk build up right where the seal needs to run.



Upon closer inspection, I could see some jagged edges on the lip of the seal near the running surface. I think the heat/not riding combo maybe deadly here and probably deteriorates rubber at a much higher pace than normal. It's been 96 to 105 here over the last few weeks/months where I am ...

Tomorrow I should get the seal. I'm going to an outfit called Riders Corner here, run by a Brit. It's a motocycle hangout/hotel/bar/tour company. The guy seems nice, I bought a Laos map from him the other week. I'll ask him where I can do some maintenance etc. on the bike. I think it needs some TLC badly.

To be continued.
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:56 PM   #19
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I am leery of advising using a drill. I have seen some seriously F'ed up stuff for that!! A plain old seven dollar seal puller from your local car parts store works perfectly. Then you can use that same puller on just about every seal on the bike and then some. I have two or three modified for particular seals. They work great and are cheap.
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Old 06-19-2013, 04:42 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by AntonLargiader View Post
Until then, I would just take the blunt side of a knife with some thin cloth over it and sweep out the seal area. Might be all you need.
I just did this on my R100RT, and used the drill, screw & pull method...drilled two small 1/16" holes at 9 and 3 oclock and screwed a sheet metal screw in about 1/4" deep. Alternate prying on each screw till it pops out. The surface that the seal lip rides against will probably be a little dirty, I cleaned mine up with crocus cloth to get it nice and smooth. The new seal will sit against an inner lip "stop" so you just drive it all the way in till it stops.
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Old 06-19-2013, 04:45 AM   #21
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Hi guys,

I am looking for some info on how to deal with a final drive leak (the big seal) on my R80G/S. All I find is info twin shock bikes. Even Snowbum doesn't have any info. I can see the seal ... can I just yank it out (how?) and replace it with the new one?

I'm in Thailand, so have limites access to shops but BMW is getting me the part in two days for $25, so not too bad.

If anyone in Chiang Mai has some shop space...

Thanks
I just did this on my R100RT, and used the drill, screw & pull method...drilled two small 1/16" holes at 9 and 3 oclock and screwed a sheet metal screw in about 1/4" deep. Alternate prying on each screw till it pops out. The surface that the seal lip rides against will probably be a little dirty, I cleaned mine up with crocus cloth to get it nice and smooth. The new seal will sit against an inner lip "stop" so you just drive it all the way in till it stops.
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Old 06-19-2013, 04:57 AM   #22
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The new seal will sit against an inner lip "stop" so you just drive it all the way in till it stops.
Excellent info, thanks!
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Old 06-19-2013, 06:33 AM   #23
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If you haven't already, just make sure your rear wheel doesn't have any lateral play in it. Sometimes a bad final drive bearing is the cause of these leaks. From your description of the seal, it sounds like the seal itself is the culprit in this case, but better safe than sorry.
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Old 06-19-2013, 06:48 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Malindi View Post



The entire circumference of the final drive had signs of oil. The top vent stuff is not oil, it's old oil and dirt mixed.


.
Check the breather is clear.
If not high temp can overpresurise the drive and cause the leak.
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Old 06-19-2013, 06:59 AM   #25
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I just read your Sigline and your Blog and realized you're on an RTW trip. Good for you. And good luck to you.

What Anton was alluding to is that sometimes you'll get a speck of debris between the seal and the sealing surface which can cause a leak. Using a thin knife blade w/ thin cloth to run along the sealing surface you can sweep the debris out (yeah, that involves sticking a knife under the seal lip !!! ). Another approach is to make a tool out of thin (like 0.008-0.016") plastic sheet (like a soda pop bottle), perhaps 5/8" wide and tapered like a knife blade, and 4'5" long. This can easily slip in under the seal lips for cleaning. Motorcycle shops sell a similar tool for cleaning under front fork seals. You seals sound damaged, but it wouldn't be a bad idea make this tool for roadside emergencies. Might save a set of brake shoes (spelled $hoes$).

Good luck on your journey, and keep the shiny side up. :)

--Bill
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Old 06-19-2013, 08:19 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
I am leery of advising using a drill. I have seen some seriously F'ed up stuff for that!! A plain old seven dollar seal puller from your local car parts store works perfectly. Then you can use that same puller on just about every seal on the bike and then some. I have two or three modified for particular seals. They work great and are cheap.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Malindi View Post
I think I'll be able to source a puller here.

After cleaning it up, I pushed back the seal a bit as Anton suggested. You can see there is some gunk build up right where the seal needs to run.



Upon closer inspection, I could see some jagged edges on the lip of the seal near the running surface. I think the heat/not riding combo maybe deadly here and probably deteriorates rubber at a much higher pace than normal. It's been 96 to 105 here over the last few weeks/months where I am ...

Tomorrow I should get the seal. I'm going to an outfit called Riders Corner here, run by a Brit. It's a motocycle hangout/hotel/bar/tour company. The guy seems nice, I bought a Laos map from him the other week. I'll ask him where I can do some maintenance etc. on the bike. .
if you've got jagged edges on lip .. that seal is coming out. there's been all sorts of suggestions on how to pull out seal. what ever you do don't damage steel surface lip of seal rides on.

if you use a standard seal puller like suggested above. there's a possibility of damaging steel sealing surface. using a std seal puller requires you to jam hooked tip between seal lip and steel sealing surface. if tool is harder than steel sealing surface, you could end up with a nasty scratch.

safest method to remove that seal is to use a sharp hook tip tool. take sharp tip of tool, puncture into rubber above sealing lip next to steel rim of seal. then hook tip to steel rim to yank out.

airhead wrangler already posted the safest method using top left hooked tip

good luck on your fab trip!!


be very careful using this type puller

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Old 06-19-2013, 08:20 PM   #27
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While you are in there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Malindi View Post





.

There was a mod that came out in early '84 that put a rubber insert inside the shoe springs.
The purpose was to dampen harmonic vibrations and prevent the spring breaking posibly resulting in rear wheel lock-up.

A bit of garden hose soaked in hot water slips over the spring easily enough to achive the same sort of result.
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Old 06-19-2013, 09:03 PM   #28
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...

...it is a very straight forward and easy-going task to replace the seal. Too many posts already on that subject....

Anyway, there are plenty of places and people that will help you in the Chiang Mai area. They will help as best as possible to keep you going.

David Unkovich was still there in 2008. Maybe he is still around. He definitely knows the area. There is the ex-Pat bar that has plenty of riders there nightly. It has coordinates:

N 1847.062
E09859.764

I don't have the addy for it. There are plenty of rider and overlander bars on that road. There is also an old skool bobber shop located between the river and the main road in town. Ask around and riders will direct you to their shop.

Enjoy your trip.

Carl
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Old 06-19-2013, 09:24 PM   #29
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Using a standard puller does not require you to jam them in. If it does, it's too thick and needs to be thinned with a grinder. They won't be for this job as they come off the shelf. Just carefully insert the hook into the seal while keeping it off the inside sealing surface and hook and pull. I think they are much easier to use and control if the seal is really stuck than the type cy pictured. You would have to use both types to find out for yourself but the common hooked pullers are in stock available just about anywhere.
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Old 06-20-2013, 02:55 AM   #30
Malindi OP
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Originally Posted by Rucksta View Post
There was a mod that came out in early '84 that put a rubber insert inside the shoe springs.
The purpose was to dampen harmonic vibrations and prevent the spring breaking posibly resulting in rear wheel lock-up.

A bit of garden hose soaked in hot water slips over the spring easily enough to achive the same sort of result.
Might be a good idea to do beforehand, to prevent from your skin getting stuck between the springs when they close up.
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