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Old 06-18-2013, 11:35 AM   #1
ciedema OP
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Water Pump Rebuild and Oil Change

Hi All,

I currently travelling and have had the water pump seals fail on my big girl ('11 Dakar). I have order the new seals and an oil filter and these should arrive today (hopefully).

Probably about 500ml (1/2 a quart) of coolant has made its way into the oil, but it hasn't gotten to the point of the filter failing (I found it when the bike was running hotter than normal).

The issue I have is that it would be nice to flush the oil but I only have access to one new oil filter, I am in Valdez AK with a NAPA or delivery being my source for parts.

So my current preference is to do the oil change and to get a much oil out a possible - according to the service manual approximatly 300ml of oil stays in the system durring an oil change. Where is the bulk of it located?
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Old 06-18-2013, 12:29 PM   #2
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Heya Craig, just run some very cheap $$$ grade oil and without the filter will be fine for a 5 minute flush, you still have the dry sump screen and bottom screen.
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Old 06-18-2013, 12:32 PM   #3
mcmann
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ciedema View Post
Hi All,

I currently travelling and have had the water pump seals fail on my big girl ('11 Dakar). I have order the new seals and an oil filter and these should arrive today (hopefully).

Probably about 500ml (1/2 a quart) of coolant has made its way into the oil, but it hasn't gotten to the point of the filter failing (I found it when the bike was running hotter than normal).

The issue I have is that it would be nice to flush the oil but I only have access to one new oil filter, I am in Valdez AK with a NAPA or delivery being my source for parts.

So my current preference is to do the oil change and to get a much oil out a possible - according to the service manual approximatly 300ml of oil stays in the system durring an oil change. Where is the bulk of it located?
How many miles on the original WP seal? Curious if the new seal is really that much better than previous seals?
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Old 06-18-2013, 12:35 PM   #4
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How many miles on the original WP seal? Curious if the new seal is really that much better than previous seals?
28,000 miles, so what ~ 50,000km. Reasonable I feel, not sure how its been, leaking the previous oil change at 25,000 miles was okay.
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:17 PM   #5
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Heya Craig, just run some very cheap $$$ grade oil and without the filter will be fine for a 5 minute flush, you still have the dry sump screen and bottom screen.
+1

I was thinking the same. You'll end up with some low grade oil hanging around after you've swilled it out a couple of times but that's got to be better than coolant sludge.

If you don't like the idea of running without the filter just remove it, let it drain and refit it again for each swill, ensuring you still have oil pressure.

While the covers are off tip it on it's sides to drain out as much as you can, including the oil tank.

Don't forget to fill it with your favourite expensive oil before you drive off

Good luck.
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Old 06-18-2013, 06:06 PM   #6
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Well my favourite expensive isn't available here. AMSOil is the only Synthetic that I can get.

I will keep an eye on things and go from there. It took 3.2 litres to fill so I am thinking I got most of it out.
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:18 PM   #7
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Hey Craig,

The only filter you need to change is the paper cartridge as the others are just screens that can be reused. Might be worth changing to a scotts mesh for the trip Wont restrict oil pressure in the unlikely event that the WP seal goes out n ya.
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:31 PM   #8
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Well my favourite expensive isn't available here. AMSOil is the only Synthetic that I can get..
At least you can get it, we are on dino oil at the mo, just changing out at 2/3 milage (so 5k), engine is quieter on dino oil ... go figure?

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Might be worth changing to a scotts mesh for the trip Wont restrict oil pressure in the unlikely event that the WP seal goes out n ya.
This is what we have done, my daily check routine includes a fluid level check along with the usuals, we got the filter mainly so we never have to try and find a filter in CA or SA at an inappropriate time.
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:26 PM   #9
ciedema OP
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Hey Craig,

The only filter you need to change is the paper cartridge as the others are just screens that can be reused. Might be worth changing to a scotts mesh for the trip Wont restrict oil pressure in the unlikely event that the WP seal goes out n ya.
Yeah I got a new paper filter and seal kit sent up from KTM Twins. At least being in the US makes that relatively fast.

Seems all good now took for a 10 mile run and it was all good - I think bloody fuel filter is about to go again (thats 3 in 50,000 ks). Time to get a purge kit from Dalby I think.

Not sure yet what I will do. I am probably back in Aus in the next few months and will leave this here I think (and maybe get an 1190R just to be really stupid).

Its overdue for a valve check so I will that in next few weeks and drop the oil again.
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Old 06-21-2013, 06:56 PM   #10
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As suggested, flush with cheap oil. Major sources of oil remaining after tank drain are the clutch case and right side screen. The clutch area seems to collect the moisture when the WP seal fails. If it were me, I'd drain tank and screens. Then pull filter and install cover without new filter. Pull clutch cover and wipe out any cream which has built up. Fill with cheap motor oil and run til warm. Drain, install new filter and refill with Rotella synthetic/blue jug from Walmart.

Or skip the cheap oil flush, just drain and refill with Rotella, install filter and change it when you get home.

Not trying to start an oil discussion--I am just thinking that it will be available in AK. And I use it wherever I am....

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