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Old 08-04-2005, 10:17 AM   #31
snoid
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i agree with the cv carb points you made...

i'll likely switch to an fcr once it's time for a topend because i don't change alt's like you guys in the high country do. problem is gonna be wearing the topend down so i can justify the expense of a fcr and me 440 kit. it's just not budging a bit. then yesterday i read where one of the thumpertalk guys in taiwan has 13k+ on his motor and it's still running strong. oh well, it may be awhile before the rebuild.

and that's a good curse,

me

p.s. she's dripping a bit of oil(3 drops overnight), countershaft seal is leaking. not bad for a 2 year-old bike with over 10k on it.

p.p.s. seriously, you can cut 20lbs off the 's' in short order. metal tank and 3lb gas cap, factory exhaust(nearly 10lbs), ditch the heavy mirrors(they hurt when you endo over the bars), bar ends(2lbs each!), steel bars(bendomatic), reflectors, taillight(huge, heavy and unsightly), passenger pegs(heavy cast), fan(not real heavy, coupla lbs maybe 3 but not needed with a good coolant).

p.p.p.s. yeah, i took my fan off, it never came on once i switched to engine ice.
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Old 08-04-2005, 11:15 AM   #32
ekaphoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snoid
i'll . then yesterday i read where one of the thumpertalk guys in taiwan has 13k+ on his motor and it's still running strong. oh well, it may be awhile before the rebuild.

The local dealer had a DR-Z come through a couple of months ago. The guy was from Europ and started in Argentina on his way to Alaska loaded down with stuff. 26,000 miles, nothing done but oil changes. Still running strong. You may have a long wait.
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Old 08-04-2005, 11:25 AM   #33
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650R power...

The 650R isn't tuned for power... it's tuned for torque. Snoidles is right, the 450's are all similar if not stronger than the uncorked 650R on HP... but they don't churn out the torque the same way. It's obvious when you get into a long sand wash... the 650 can be lugged down and will keep pulling, where the 450's require clutch and or a gear change.

This isn't really that important from a performance point of view, but then, what is. Shane Watts would wax us all on a 125. It's more relevant for how the bike feels- to me, the 650R is relaxing to ride long distances and in difficult situations because the motor is so flexible and just lopes along, where the WR requires you to stay on your game more.

IMHO, there isn't much overlap between the 3 bikes you mention. The WR is narrow and racy, the DR-Z is a better XR 400, and by that I mean a great trailbike, and the 650R is a desert racer that happens to work pretty well as a dualsport. Pick your poison.
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Old 08-04-2005, 05:16 PM   #34
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Quote:
IMHO, there isn't much overlap between the 3 bikes you mention. The WR is narrow and racy, the DR-Z is a better XR 400, and by that I mean a great trailbike, and the 650R is a desert racer that happens to work pretty well as a dualsport. Pick your poison
.

Well-said.

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Old 08-04-2005, 06:54 PM   #35
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i think you're close to right, neduro, i'm just a chronic analytical.

since I dunno exactly what a 'desert bike' is, to me the BRP is just one heck of a power-monster enduro. it give confidence where none is warranted!
I was sorta hoping the DRZ or WRxxxF would be similar, just lighter, with DC electricals and a ez start.

in the meantime, i have made an offer on a XR650R here in TX that has something like 40 miles on it total. either the guy is scared of it [understandable] or can't start it [understandable, if stock... as he says]

but, I'm finding DRZ -s models in states other than texas pretty cheap. apparently they go over great in some areas, not so great elsewhere. such is the free market economy.

i guess our wimply skills cannot serve justice to a CRF450X or WR450F..........
heck, why not a TTR 250
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Old 10-21-2006, 09:32 AM   #36
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I just found this thread because I've been wondering the very same questions. From what I've read it SEEMS the DRZ is the bike I'm looking for, an improved XR 400. Some of the stuff I ride is VERY technical (first gear just above idle) and I need some thing to pull from the very bottom with out stalling. I have an CRF230 and the motor is sweet for that type of riding but then when things open up the stock suspension... well, the bike is NOT made for some one like me to ride it the way I ride (I've read the suspension mods made by DirtBike's "SuperHunky" but don't have the time to mess with it for now, and I'd like a taller, stronger bike for on road travel too). So I need some thing that will pull from the bottom and have the suspension to match. The WR/DRZ/XR question is one that's been bugging me too. I am affraid of the DRZ's weight which isn't an issue when RIDING... it's when you have to pick the thing up that it's problem. Being vert challenged this happen more than I care for but the XR's heavy too (and no button for the really bad stall places) and I want some thing that's good for two hundred plus mile rides.

Thanks to all for you input.

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Old 10-21-2006, 11:08 AM   #37
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The ONLY reason to consider a DRZ400E over a 650R is if you must have electric start, otherwise the weight is surprisingly close and the power of the 650R is unreal when uncorked(as you know) I think a DRZ400 would dissapoint you. I would opt for the WR450 as a nice compliment to the 650R, one is the wide open fast bike, the other is the quick turning/handling bike that is still also very fast itself. The DRZ400 is a great bike for those who live in difficultto plate states, if this state was one, I would have the 400S in a heartbeat, but the fact that your state is easy I do not think the 400E is even worth considering now that the S model has the same suspension.
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Old 10-21-2006, 06:10 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wickedsprint
I do not think the 400E is even worth considering now that the S model has the same suspension.
There are a lot of differences between the DRZ400S and the 400E besides the suspension.

Weight (the E is about 30# lighter)
Cams (many S owners install E cams)
CDI (the E revs higher)
Carburator (the E has an top-shelf FCR39 with an AP)
Air box (no need to cut the E)
Base gasket/Compression ratio (E is higher)
Subframes (the S is beefier)
Footpegs (E's are better off road)
Gas tanks (E is plastic, S is metal)
Gearing is different

Heck, even the seats are different. If you ride an E and and S off road, they are like totally different bikes.

Edited to add:

The E comes with knobbies and rim locks
The E has zerk fittings on the shock linkage and swingarm
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Colorado screwed with this post 10-21-2006 at 06:18 PM
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Old 10-21-2006, 07:58 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colorado
There are a lot of differences between the DRZ400S and the 400E besides the suspension.

...
So, how does the DRZ400 compare to your XR400?
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Old 10-21-2006, 08:04 PM   #40
wickedsprint
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colorado
There are a lot of differences between the DRZ400S and the 400E besides the suspension.

Weight (the E is about 30# lighter)
Cams (many S owners install E cams)
CDI (the E revs higher)
Carburator (the E has an top-shelf FCR39 with an AP)
Air box (no need to cut the E)
Base gasket/Compression ratio (E is higher)
Subframes (the S is beefier)
Footpegs (E's are better off road)
Gas tanks (E is plastic, S is metal)
Gearing is different

Heck, even the seats are different. If you ride an E and and S off road, they are like totally different bikes.

Edited to add:

The E comes with knobbies and rim locks
The E has zerk fittings on the shock linkage and swingarm
Alot of the differences to me would sway me toward the S, the E model has no cooling fan (correct me if I am wrong), the S will tolerate worse quailty of fuels one might find out in the middle of nowhere, and the CV carb on the S model is more tolerant of extreme altitude changes that we have up here, our rides could go anywhere from 4K to well over 10K. But why would you pick a 400E over an XR650R if the electric starter is removed from the equasion?

I did not know there were that many differences.
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Old 10-21-2006, 09:06 PM   #41
murgatroid42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wickedsprint
Alot of the differences to me would sway me toward the S, the E model has no cooling fan (correct me if I am wrong), the S will tolerate worse quailty of fuels one might find out in the middle of nowhere, and the CV carb on the S model is more tolerant of extreme altitude changes that we have up here, our rides could go anywhere from 4K to well over 10K. But why would you pick a 400E over an XR650R if the electric starter is removed from the equasion?

I did not know there were that many differences.
Let me start by saying my dirt riding skills really suck. I'm getting better, but I still suck. So my experiences may not be comparable to yours.

I had an XR650L. The slow, heavy pig, far different than the XR650R. I crashed in sand, and decided to replace it. I asked neduro if an XR650R would be easier to ride, since it weighs 50 lbs. less. He told me that the XR650R would still be a handful for me (6' 0", 165 lb. nerd who was never athletic). He recommended the DRZ instead, knowing that the S version actually weighs more than the XR650R. I test rode an XR650R, and it still felt topheavy. I now have a KLX400SR (green DRZ, street version), and it is great, for MY riding skills. It is far more nimble than the XR650R, even though it weighs more, and I am more confident on it. Why? Balance, weigh distribution, power curves, whatever. It just works for me. neduro (who is a local demigod) was correct.

What do you want from the bike? A 105 mph enduro? Get the XR650R, the DRZ won't go that fast. A trail bike for the woods? The XR650R will do it, but it is heavy. Bikes all feel different. It is more than comparing weight and HP stats. Get one that you personally like, one that feels good for you. If you make the wrong decision, then sell it and get another.

Regarding "if electric start is removed from the equation?". A friend has an XR650R. He loves it. But he was riding slow trails in Oregon, and the bike got hot enough to start boiling the fuel in the tank. He stopped for a short rest. He then spent the next half hour trying to kick start the beast. Yes, he did all the mods to reduce overheating, but still... I like my magic button. Esteban (another local demigod) loves to make fun of kicker dualsports. YMMV.
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Old 10-21-2006, 09:24 PM   #42
wickedsprint
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You make alot of really good points, and I agree that the 650R does feel top heavy, sometimes I can only get it to turn with heavy doses of throttle to force that rear to come around. I also owned an xr650l briefly in college before it got stolen, it was not very confidence inspiring. I am just up the road from you in cheyenne wy and likely moving to FTC after the new year, we will definitely have to do some riding down there.
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Old 10-21-2006, 09:55 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wickedsprint
... I am just up the road from you in cheyenne wy and likely moving to FTC after the new year, we will definitely have to do some riding down there.
Sounds good to me.
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Old 10-22-2006, 03:28 AM   #44
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The KTM 450 EXC has it all over a DRZ400E in the dirt and even shades the hard core WR. Much lighter (than the DRZ) and lower seat hight, fantastic motor and handling. The Kato is great for novices and experts alike. If you take your dirt seriously get the Kato, if not get the DRZ400E or S.

The XR650L is much more road orientated and poles apart from a WR450. A great bike for long distance travelling.
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Old 10-22-2006, 07:57 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murgatroid42
So, how does the DRZ400 compare to your XR400?
Hiya Dan

I loved that XR and sold it in a moment of weakness. I hope DurangoBiker is enjoying it.

There's no comparison between the XR and DRZ just yet. I've just got 24 miles on the DRZe (doing the mototuneusa break-in) and did the first oil/filter change yesterday. Haven't even had it off road. The DRZ seems to have just a bit less grunt off the bottom (it's still getting broke in, though). But it revs to the moon compared to the XR400. Once I get it set up (and my knee is back in shape) I'll bring it up to your neck of the woods (Berthoud) and we can do some riding.

Are you still loving your DRZ?
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