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Old 06-24-2013, 09:38 PM   #16
supershaft
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Who says rod bearings knock most at idle? That is just not right. Changed the oil? And filter? I suspect you just got a $2000 white O-ring lesson. The expensive way!

supershaft screwed with this post 06-24-2013 at 09:51 PM
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:47 PM   #17
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Yup, Seems like it. I'll let you know once I measure the canister depth tomorrow haha.

About the rod knock at idle, That is just something I am repeating after reading it a few times around here. I mean mine makes sense too, on in low rpm's under load, maybe it quiets out at higher rpm's because the rod is floating on the crank. I guess it depends on your bearing failure!
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Old 06-25-2013, 04:19 AM   #18
Stan_R80/7
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It looks like you should order some new exhaust nuts and cut the current ones off. If the nuts are on so tight where you break the wrench trying to get them off, it's unlikely anti-sieze was applied and the threads will gall on removing the nuts. It's much less expensive and trouble to cut off the offending exhaust nuts rather than repair the heads. Good luck!
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Old 06-25-2013, 06:23 AM   #19
supershaft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kspit View Post
Yup, Seems like it. I'll let you know once I measure the canister depth tomorrow haha.

About the rod knock at idle, That is just something I am repeating after reading it a few times around here. I mean mine makes sense too, on in low rpm's under load, maybe it quiets out at higher rpm's because the rod is floating on the crank. I guess it depends on your bearing failure!
Rods knock most under load. They are usually loaded most during acceleration. They do not knock most at idle. Rod knock does not get quieter at higher rpms.

Canister depth? There are plenty of ways to muff that setup with perfect canister depth.
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:49 AM   #20
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@Stan, I may just do that, they aren't very expensive and I know I can get them locally.

@supershaft, I appreciate your experiences on rod knocks and stand corrected. I guess I do just feel bad about mucking up the o ring because I read so much on it, but I mostly feel bad because it is all my fault. No one else to blame but me

New tool to locate, grinding wheel.
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Old 06-26-2013, 08:57 PM   #21
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Got the exhaust nuts off. Had to cut them. Sucks, but oh well, not the end of the world! No amount of heat would make them budge much more than an eight of a turn! And the left cylinder(the wrench buster) wouldn't turn at all!

Got the right one off first and was disappointed to see this

But the left side is clean! So even if I do end up needing to get one side re-threaded(or leave it, I love all the info and do's and do not's i'm getting here) It isn't going to break the bank.

Tomorrow is the cylinder removal day. Will update with more pics and info int he worlds most boring repair journey.

-K
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Old 06-26-2013, 11:09 PM   #22
supershaft
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I forgot to comment on your idea of every good airhead: WTFO! You are confusing beemers with some other brands. Good airheads don't leak a drop. They might weep out of the shifter shaft seal and FD vent but . . . .
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Old 06-27-2013, 03:06 AM   #23
AntonLargiader
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kspit View Post
Got the right one off first and was disappointed to see this ... But the left side is clean!
The right side is the one you turned; that's why the threads aren't so great. But they'd look WAY worse if you'd gotten the nut all the way off.
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Old 06-27-2013, 04:04 AM   #24
Bill Harris
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Those threads might clean up. Get a thread file and try it...

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Old 06-27-2013, 04:31 AM   #25
Beemerguru
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Doing 2 crank out rebuilds right now if you want to come down to Redwood City and watch..also have all the parts you need including exhaust nuts.
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Old 06-27-2013, 03:52 PM   #26
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@AntonLargiader Figured as much. I will definitely be trying to clean them up with a file as Bill said, but no use putting it back together all busted.
@Bill - Going to give this a shot for sure. I may take them to local airhead expert Dick Sullivan and see what he thinks, can do, but either way, I'll try my damndest.

@Beemerguru - Wow thanks for the invite! I would love to come visit and check out your rebuilds and pick some exhaust nuts up from ya potentially! Let me know when you are around via PM or whatnot.

So just taking a break from disassembling. The exhaust was such a pain in the ass to get off. The silencer was stuck on the right side so it all had to come out as a unit, wasn't that big of a deal, but getting the equalizer pipe off was another ordeal... Gonna put more work into getting the pipes clean than I will replacing whatever is making my knock...

Here is a picture of what my motorcycle pen/carport thing looks like now...



Still working on a parts list. Need to add exhaust nuts for sure haha. May decide to do my timing chain as well since i'm so far into it, May take the front cover off to inspect that as well before I make a parts run/order.

Thank you for all of the input again!

Edit, and yes. I know the bike is pretty fugly, but I rescued it :P If there wasn't a motor semi rebuild going on at the moment there would be a nice stock seat on this puppy riiiiight now. And yes, there is something under the rods and the case, can't see from back here
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Old 06-27-2013, 04:16 PM   #27
Airhead Wrangler
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Looks like you're diving into airhead ownership in the deep end. Welcome. First off, I'm almost sure those exhaust threads will clean up well enough with a thread file. Don't ask how I know. Second, just a procedural point. I'm not sure why you removed the cylinder studs from the block, maybe they unthreaded from the block because the nuts were seized onto them, but when working on airheads it's customary to leave those in and slide the cylinder out over them. Furthermore, another trick is to only slide the cylinder out far enough to expose the wrist pin at the bottom of the the cylinder, remove the wrist pin and then you can remove the cylinder with the piston in it and not have to mess with a ring compressor later. Some people like to do that, some people don't. There's a cutout in the cylinder skirt that makes it real easy though.
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Old 06-27-2013, 04:16 PM   #28
supershaft
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Why did you take the studs out?
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Old 06-27-2013, 04:28 PM   #29
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@airheadwrangler Hah, thanks for easing my tensions over the damaged threads, i'll go get a thread file and clean em up. Good to know about the cylinder trick also, definitely do able.

And to respond to both of you about the studs, I don't know why I took them out I guess. They came out easily with 2 nuts locked too each other, I figured it should have been done to have greater access to the crank? if not I'll go thread them back in now. The threads are in good shape. Can't tell if they have been helicoiled.
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Old 06-27-2013, 04:39 PM   #30
supershaft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kspit View Post
@airheadwrangler Hah, thanks for easing my tensions over the damaged threads, i'll go get a thread file and clean em up. Good to know about the cylinder trick also, definitely do able.

And to respond to both of you about the studs, I don't know why I took them out I guess. They came out easily with 2 nuts locked too each other, I figured it should have been done to have greater access to the crank? if not I'll go thread them back in now. The threads are in good shape. Can't tell if they have been helicoiled.
You could tell if you looked.
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