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Old 06-28-2013, 01:19 PM   #16
blaster11 OP
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Location: Southern Maryland
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Gas cap replacement

Not really a big deal to most but the gas cap on this thing is a real Bitch to take off and putting it back on usually took several iterations because it wanted to cross thread itself. Oh and if you didn't Grrrrrr it down tight it would leak. So the guys over on Cafe Husky told me about a factory Husky gas cap which was aluminum and would solve my problems....and it does and it is a nice looking piece to boot.

Stock POS


Notice how it's warped.


Just remove the gasket from the stock cap and install it on the new shiny cap and install....done! It screws on as a gas cap should now.
In case you were wondering where I got the cap.
http://www.halls-cycles.com/default....submit1=Search
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Old 07-01-2013, 04:52 PM   #17
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Ignition switch

So if you are going to be out and about, at some point are going to be out of view of your bike. Well the way the bike comes you may not feel comfortable considering that it doesn't even have an ignition switch.....that's right no ignition switch! Just jump on, pull in the clutch and push the start button and you are off and riding. So that's where Sicass racing comes in as they sell a plug-n-play ignition switch which plugs right in to your wiring harness.

You can mount the switch one of two ways, either use the mount for a nonexistent switch which comes on the bike as I did.



Or this mount which can be bolted to the forks or some other suitable location.


The wiring harness is located behind the head light assembly so you will need to remove the four screws which hold on the fender and one up top below the dash cluster. This will allow you to drop the fender/light assemble out of the way so you can plug in the harness.

Four fender bolts

Top bolt below the gauge cluster which will need to be removed as well.

Here is the harness all plugged up and ready for use. I now have a little piece of mind when I walk away from the bike.
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Old 07-01-2013, 05:35 PM   #18
AustinJake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaster11 View Post
So the adventurization of my TE511 begins. Some say that the bike is just a dirt bike with tags....they may be right but I think it can be more....way more. So as I build it I will post the updates and changes...the good, bad, and the ugly of the build and the shortcomings of the bike if any. So what's my goal.....Minimum 200 mile fuel range, comfortable seat, and able to haul my camping gear and miscellaneous other stuff for up to a short multi week adventure.
I was gonna do the same thing with my 2010 TE450, turns out, all I did was turn a 250lb sweetie into a 315lb cow. And the increased weight DOES hamper the good handling, the bike was just not designed to weigh so much. I get 32 mpg with a rich, great running program, so to get a 200 mile range, I would need a 7 gallon tank. The bike DOES serve as a great dual sport, and I've done some wonderful multi-day rides (with daily return to motels) in Colorado and New Mexico, the bike has almost 15000 miles on it, but it just is not the platform for loading down as an adventure bike.

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Old 07-02-2013, 09:42 AM   #19
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The real question is do you start with a heavy bike and make it heavier or start with a light bike and build what YOU want. I already have heavy Adventure bikes so this will have to fill the task of mid weight Adventure bike when loaded. I am not a racer so adding weight to the bike really doesn't bother me all that much and bottom line is most of the stuff won't even be on the bike the majority of the time when riding trails. Right now the bike is getting about 50MPG so all I really need is about 2 to 3 gallons extra to meet my goal with some cushion. The goals for the bike aren't really all that lofty so this will most likely be a pretty easy build....but only time will tell.
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:18 PM   #20
markusarealuis
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Gas mileage

I think the bike might make an excellent candidate for an adventure bike. I had the same plan when I bought mine (2013 Te449). I am cheering you on

Mine gets around 42-45 mpg in stock form - no power adjustment yet! I want to see how this develops before I make any changes.
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Old 07-02-2013, 05:08 PM   #21
blaster11 OP
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Skid plate upgrade

So after my last weekend adventure where I took some pretty hard hits I quickly decided that it was time for some engine protection. There are MANY skid plates on the market and probably most of them will do an adequate job so really it's probably down to price and looks. I chose the Ricochet because it is reasonably priced and I have had them on other bikes and they hold up pretty well and provide good protection. Sp here it goes with the installation.

So here it is all brand new

Mounting brackets which are kind of a pain at first but I got the hang of them so no big deal

Decent looking welds


Side view of stock skid plate

Front view

Remove the front center bolt, the other two are motor mount bolts

Remove these two off the bottom and the stock plate falls right off

And there it is, I will clean that up and keep it for the next owner.

Bottom of engine with plate removed

Remove the two engine mount bolts and remove mounting plate, then reinstall motor mount bolts and torque to spec.

Put all the brackets in place and bolt up the skid plate, not really that easy but easy enough.

Front view

Rear view where it provides protection for the rear suspension and grease zerk, nice feature!

Right side view of installed

Another right side view

And one more picture from underneath, overall not a hard project and the cost is about $100.00....so not so bad for some pretty good engine protection.
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:48 PM   #22
markusarealuis
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Here is my rear rack mounted

Nice job on your build

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Old 07-18-2013, 11:40 AM   #23
Andreja
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Hi, interesting project I must say.

What are you going to do with the seat? It is narrow and hard, I suppose.

Keep up with the good work
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Old 07-19-2013, 12:28 PM   #24
blaster11 OP
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Mark....that rear rack looks really good!
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Old 07-19-2013, 12:37 PM   #25
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Hi, interesting project I must say.

What are you going to do with the seat? It is narrow and hard, I suppose.

Keep up with the good work
I am looking at several options on the seat right now but it depends a lot on what gas tank option I go with. The first one is a Seat Concepts seat which I have used on my DRZ which works pretty well especially for the cost and has been getting some good reviews over on CafeHusky.



If I go with a Safari tank it will need to be a bit more custom and if that is the case I will either send it to Seat Concepts or more than likely Renazco. The seat and tank project will have to wait for winter when I am off for surgery. Right now I am pulling my cash together for a trip up the Trans Taiga so the Husky build project will be on hold for a while. I have a few more small mods yet to do but the more costly ones will have to wait a bit.
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Old 07-19-2013, 02:21 PM   #26
AZ TOM
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Having owned two Husky's a 2006 TE510 & 2007 TE250, the only reason I am not still riding one is that close ratio gear box. Regardless of how much off road you do & some days I do over 400, at the end of the day you sometimes just have to hit the slab to get home! That's where they fall short. Great bikes, reliable bikes, they handle great but I no longer own one. Maybe if I had of bought the 610 I would still be riding it?
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Old 07-19-2013, 02:26 PM   #27
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My expectations for the asphalt aren't very high for the most part so if it doesn't work out there are certainly other bikes out there.
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Old 07-25-2013, 05:29 PM   #28
j_brawner
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Does that rack mount to the subframe or just the plastic of the fender?

Any chance we could see a picture from underneath? I'd love to see how they mount and get an idea of how strudy it is.

Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by markusarealuis View Post
Nice job on your build

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Old 07-29-2013, 12:37 PM   #29
blaster11 OP
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Flush mount blinkers

All I can say is that rear fender is a huge piece of dung....so it has to go! So the first thing I did was pull the seat and the rear bodywork so that I could get to the wiring. Once that is off it is only a couple of screws, two plugs, and two bullet connectors and the whole blinker/license plate assembly comes off.
These are the two blinker plugs.


And then the rear looks like this.


So I decided to use these flush mount LED blinkers from Sicass racing which are plug-n-play with the Husky wiring harness. Even with using just one pair I would still recommend their flasher unit as it does blink a bit fast.


So I eyeballed a suitable location on the tail section and drew a line around it using a pencil. I then removed the tail and started the preps for drilling the holes for the wires and attaching hardware.


Take note that these plastic ribs get in the way of the attaching hardware and wiring so you may have to adjust the position of the blinker a bit like I had to so that everything clears. So you will probably have to take the tail on and off several times to get the position where you want/need it.




Here they are mounted slightly more forward on the bike from where I started.




Plenty of clearance between the muffler and the blinker......hopefully, only time will tell.




So the last thing I did was take some cleaner and remove the pencil markings and try them out.
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:17 AM   #30
markusarealuis
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Mark....that rear rack looks really good!
Thank you!!

The rack actually worked really well for my trip to Colorado. It held the bag (with all the goodies ~40lbs) without any problems at all. And believe me I beat the heck out of that bike for 5 solid days on terrain that would make a mountain goat blush. The bracket is fastened to the sub-frame bolts. You will have to bend the bracket to achieve the proper angle for the bracket to sit properly; but it works great. I was very doubtful on the two self-tapping screws holding (since they are merely fastened to the plastic fender) but they held up as well.
Black Bear Pass Below :) very steep and rough ..
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