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Old 10-15-2013, 11:32 AM   #61
blaster11 OP
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Thoughts of adding a cush hub???

I was curious and figured what better way to find out than to call Woody's about some cush drive hubs. Here are the prices;
(friends bike) 570 Husaberg - about $800.00 if they can reuse the rim
(my bike) Husky TE511 - about $800.00 if they can reuse the rim
(my bike) Suzuki DRZ 400S - About $920 with Excel rims and closer to $1000.00 with Takosago(?) rims, I figured that I am that far in on a 11 year old bike why not replace the rim.

These are all with new hubs/spokes/bearings/rubbers/spacers/relacing....so basically everything but the tube and tire.

Just gathering information at this point because a more comfortable seat and larger gas tank are much more important.

Some FAQ information;

CUSH DRIVES & motard conversions

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do i really need a cush drive hub?

Road use does place more stress on a gearbox, sprockets, chain and rear tyre, because the rear tyre normally slips a little in dirt with each combustion stroke (hence that little rooster tail under acceleration!) and there is also the flex of knobby tyres - both these effects act like a cush drive hub.

There are plenty of arguments for and against them if you check the forums, and a lot of opinions aren't based on hard facts. Personally, we believe that a cush drive hub isn't strictly necessary if:

- your bike is under 600cc
- you don't plan on clocking too many miles on bitumen
- your bike has a solid gearbox with no known issues.

Our reasoning? Almost every trail bike over 600cc has a cush drive hub, which strongly suggests the manufacturers think they are needed on the big thumpers.

Almost every road bike in existence has a cush drive hub, strongly suggesting that manufacturers think they are needed for doing a lot of road mileage.

If your bike has a light weight gearbox, or any known issues, then a cush drive hub probably isn't a bad idea to minimize possible problems.

So how does it work? A cush drive hub lessens the impact of a single cylinder's combustion stroke on your transmission, drive chain and rear tyre, but if you are riding in the upper rev range then you won't notice any effect. The rear hub is also usually heavier with a cush drive hub, which slightly increases unsprung weight and makes the rear wheel a bit more likely to go wider when backing it in in racing.

The benefits of a cush drive hub appear more as you operate in the lower rev ranges. For example, the smoother ride is noticeable at around 3000rpm to 5000rpm, but most noticeable in slow or stop-start traffic. So if you tend to do quite a bit of easy riding or commuting, you'll have a much more enjoyable ride with a cush drive hub.

It is unlikely that your gearbox is going to break down simply because you are using a fixed rear hub for occasional bitumen riding. Gearboxes on dual purpose bikes are over-engineered to last so you can probably ride on bitumen without a cush drive hub for years without problems, particularly with trail bikes that have heavy beefed up gearboxes (e.g. DRZ400, KLR650, DR650), but is probably worth considering more with performance bikes like the KTM and WR450F with light weight gearboxes. As dedicated dirt bikes, the priority on minimising weight means those higher gears may not be so beefed up for extended road riding. There is a reason every road bike has a cush drive hub, and why manufacturers stress that their higher performance offroad bikes aren't intended for "extended highway use".
how much difference does a cush drive make?

For a single cylinder bike, a big difference in everyday riding. For example, in testing cast wheels with the cush drive hub against a spoked motard wheel set it was found that chain snatch setting in at 80kmh with the spoked motard wheels in top gear was reduced to 50kmh with the cast motard wheels. This makes a difference to your useable rev range on your bike, meaning a lot less gear changes in normal road riding. It can be likened to the difference between riding a single cylinder road bike compared to a twin cylinder. However, if you ride hard or race then this will make no difference. But for everyday riding, each combustion stroke of the piston is dampened, which has plenty of advantages:
- extended life of sprockets and chains
- reduced wear on the gear box and other moving parts
- smoother ride whether accelearating or deccelerating
- longer rear tyre life.
how does a cush drive work?

A cush drive is a part of a motorcycle drive-train that is designed to reduce stress from engine torque damaging other components during gear or throttle changes. A common design is made of three major pieces: the wheel, the sprocket assembly or 'sprocket drive', and the rubber damper.

The wheel and the sprocket assembly fit together with five sections much like two hands woven together. In between the contact of the two assembly are rubber blocks. These cush drive rubbers are usually triangular in shape, have a hard compound and may be air-filled. This makes it so the wheel and the sprocket have a dampening layer between them, and the rubber blocks reduce wear, stress fractures and fatigue of the metal assemblies. This is most noticeable with single cylinder motorbikes used on paved roads at slow to moderate speeds, where in effect the power and engine braking is delivered in a series of punches through the transmission, chain, sprockets and rear wheel.

When the rubber damper becomes old and hardens, or wears out, the changes in load on the drive chain instigated by changes in throttle position or changing gear can cause snatchiness in the power delivery. Loads particularly on the drive chain can be massively increased in these conditions, increasing the risk of breakage or of contact with the swinging arm resulting in damage. Perhaps more pointedly the sudden transfer of force to the rear tyre can cause momentary loss of traction (lock or spin) resulting in small changes of direction or at worst total loss of control.
WHY YOUR offroad SPOKED WHEELS DON'T HAVE A CUSH DRIVE

Why doesn't your dirt bike have one? When riding in the dirt, the rear wheel does slip marginally on the looser surface which acts as a kind of cush drive. Cush drives do make a rear wheel heavier, which isn't appreciated by dirt riders or competition motard riders. A cush drive is also more expensive so manufacturers avoid them when they can unless they feel it might cause warranty issues. Generally speaking, both Japanese and European dirt bikes won't feature a cush drive hub until they are over 600cc and have a lot of grunt, meaning they'll be ridden at low revs when the cush drive will act to smooth out the ride. This is why the DR650SE, KLR650 and KTM LC640 and 690 models all feature a cush drive hub.
CUSH DRIVEs and spoked motard wheels

An aftermarket cush drive hub will typically cost around AUD$800 or US$600 which drives the cost of spoked motard wheels up substantially. There is an increasing trend toward adapting cast wheels from smaller sports bikes to gain the benefits of a cush drive hub at a fraction of the price with very little weight gain, if any, compared to spoked motard wheels if the right cast wheels are used.
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Old 11-02-2013, 07:39 AM   #62
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Well since I am done riding for the year.


I figured I needed do something simple to keep the upgrades going so I sent my computer off to Zipty racing to get the mapping upgraded to the Race map III. This should help with a bit more power by fattening up the Air/Fuel mix and with the flame outs as well. Hopefully I will be able to get back out to the garage soon to install my Tugger strap and work on getting the Cat out of the muffler.
I have also been working on some designs in my heading for adding Wolfman soft bags, I think it is possible.

ECU upgrade
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Old 11-02-2013, 07:47 AM   #63
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Sorry to hear

Blaster, how in the world did you get all those nails in your foot dude. I wish you a speedy recovery!! I think you can still ride with those nails in there btw :-) keep posting the great upgrades!!
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Old 11-02-2013, 07:53 AM   #64
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Blaster, how in the world did you get all those nails in your foot dude. I wish you a speedy recovery!! I think you can still ride with those nails in there btw :-) keep posting the great upgrades!!
Lost a fight with a screw gun is the way the story goes...as I tell it anyway.

Bruce, you gonna pull the trigger on the cush hubs? I'm pretty sure it'll be my next big ticket item, but I gotta set aside the cash for it. The wife will look at my like I'm crazy if I try to solicit the funds from her.
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Old 11-02-2013, 07:56 AM   #65
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Originally Posted by markusarealuis View Post
Blaster, how in the world did you get all those nails in your foot dude. I wish you a speedy recovery!! I think you can still ride with those nails in there btw :-) keep posting the great upgrades!!
Pretty long story but the short of it is I got my foot crushed by my dirt bike, here is the thread I have over in Face Plant. I wish I could still ride.....hell let alone walk right now. I will keep working the bike to make it better for my purpose.
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Old 11-02-2013, 08:18 AM   #66
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Sorry to hear about your foot. I'm interested to see where this build goes.
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Old 11-02-2013, 08:32 AM   #67
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Bruce, you gonna pull the trigger on the cush hubs? I'm pretty sure it'll be my next big ticket item, but I gotta set aside the cash for it. The wife will look at my like I'm crazy if I try to solicit the funds from her.
It's on the list but with the medical bills starting to roll in cush drive will have to wait. Actually the next big purchase for the Husky will be the IMS tank and Seat Concepts seat, that seat killed me last time. Don't forget that the Adventure is down hard and needs an influx of cash to get her back operational.
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Old 11-02-2013, 08:33 AM   #68
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Sorry to hear about your foot. I'm interested to see where this build goes.
It's going to take a while but I will keep chipping away at it.
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Old 11-02-2013, 09:09 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by blaster11 View Post
It's on the list but with the medical bills starting to roll in cush drive will have to wait. Actually the next big purchase for the Husky will be the IMS tank and Seat Concepts seat, that seat killed me last time. Don't forget that the Adventure is down hard and needs an influx of cash to get her back operational.
I forgot about the abs module. I'm hoping for a (relatively) cheap fix in your future. No renazco eh? I figured you'd be done with seat concepts. Gonna DIY, or ship it out? What kinda range will the IMS bring you up to?
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Old 11-02-2013, 01:15 PM   #70
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I forgot about the abs module. I'm hoping for a (relatively) cheap fix in your future. No renazco eh? I figured you'd be done with seat concepts. Gonna DIY, or ship it out? What kinda range will the IMS bring you up to?
It will be relatively cheap compared to a new module but still not free by any stretch. I don't have any real data on the Renazco but the Seat Concepts on the DRZ is pretty decent so I would do their seats again. The real deal is that due to adding the IMS tank where their was no tank before changed the seat pan, so the tank just so happens to come with a seat covered by Seat Concepts. The new tank is 3.5 gallons, so along with the factory tank which if I recall is a bit over 2 gallons should give me 210+ miles depending on the right hand. That puts me pretty much where I want to be. Earlier this year when Dorito and I did the TET, 200 mile range gave me a lot of wiggle room for when we stopped for gas which took a lot of stress off and I didn't have to carry extra gas....bonus.

I got my rear Touratech tugger strap installed and it looks like it will work pretty well...more to come later on this.
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Old 11-02-2013, 02:53 PM   #71
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Pictures of the Tugger strap

Here is the strap installed, obviously got it from Touratech.




And the underside, it bolts into the end of the frame rails.

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Old 11-02-2013, 03:32 PM   #72
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And....

I installed a front axle pulling tool from Touratech as well, not a big deal or anything but should make pulling the axle trail side a bit easier.
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Old 11-03-2013, 03:28 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by blaster11 View Post
It's on the list but with the medical bills starting to roll in cush drive will have to wait. Actually the next big purchase for the Husky will be the IMS tank and Seat Concepts seat, that seat killed me last time. Don't forget that the Adventure is down hard and needs an influx of cash to get her back operational.
Bummer about the foot crush. Hope it gets back to normal and with out too much $$$$$$.

Well I just got a Husaberg FE450..(the Husky 511 deal was gone) and I got a Kush sprocket for it. Much cheaper and easier than the hub. I think it is smoother or my expectations that it would be are really helping the impression that it is smoother. Only about 300 miles on it but so far so good. They make them for Husky's also...https://kushsprockets.3dcartstores.c...ckets_c_7.html
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Old 11-05-2013, 07:18 AM   #74
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Bummer about the foot crush. Hope it gets back to normal and with out too much $$$$$$.

Well I just got a Husaberg FE450..(the Husky 511 deal was gone) and I got a Kush sprocket for it. Much cheaper and easier than the hub. I think it is smoother or my expectations that it would be are really helping the impression that it is smoother. Only about 300 miles on it but so far so good. They make them for Husky's also...https://kushsprockets.3dcartstores.c...ckets_c_7.html
Thanks for reminding me about those, I had seen them quite a while back but they seemed to be having issues at the time. I may have to rethink them since they seem to make them for my DRZ as well as the Husky.

blaster11 screwed with this post 11-09-2013 at 02:46 PM
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Old 11-09-2013, 02:45 PM   #75
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Decided to order up a new air filter lid today....should allow the engine to breathe a bit easier, this came off of a 2012 TC449 and runs about $24.00.
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