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Old 06-29-2013, 09:14 PM   #16
RideFreak
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I don't think it has to be locked but since the option is there it's def nice to take that variable out of the mix.
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Old 06-29-2013, 09:28 PM   #17
Michelangelo OP
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Thanks for the article link. Great little write up, especially the pictures. Pictures, I can work with those!
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Old 07-01-2013, 04:18 AM   #18
jar944
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Originally Posted by Michelangelo View Post
Ok I tried your method of getting the slots on the camshaft lined up parrallel and then inserted locking bolt. I tried this two times, both times with the zip tie inserted into sparkplug hole so I can see that the piston was at or close-to TDC.

Then I inserted locking bolt and not sure what next? I could get the bolt to insert and thread to the point where it would just rotate and rotate and not lock all the way into the hold. I think i ran out of thread on the bolt before anything. I even tried rotating the engine over to make sure it was locked AND...I could still rotate it over so i can only assume the bolt didn't lock it into TDC like it's supposed to.

How far should the locking bolt be into the hold to assure me I have it at TDC and inserted correctly?
You need a longer bolt in that case

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Why? I guess I don't get it? Getting close and taking out the tensioner won't work?
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Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
I don't think it has to be locked but since the option is there it's def nice to take that variable out of the mix.
There are no alignment marks on the cams or cam chain. To swap shims you must pull the cams. To re install the cams the crank must be locked @ TDC and if you follow the service manual you need the special KTM tool to re-align the cams once reinstalled
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Old 07-01-2013, 07:36 AM   #19
Michelangelo OP
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Ok so I finally got to TDC and got the bolt (took one from the handlebars clamp) to get in and lock the engine.

My cam chain gear does in fact have one little indent mark but the odd thing (and thing that was causing me grief) is that it doesn't line up to the 12 o'clock position when the engine is at TDC. Is it possible that whoever put the engine back together after taking it apart, inserted that gear the wrong one, at least in regards to the indent mark? Not that it makes a difference in the overall scheme of getting it to TDC. But for someone who figured that mark was there for that purpose, it sure is a pain in my butt!

So next time I'll know; don't look for the indent mark on the cam chain gear! I'll look for the lobes on each cam to be pointing away from each other, with the flat spots on the cams being parrallel to the ground.

BTW, my clearances were on the far loose end of what the owner's manual says. Should I leave them loose as won't they get tighter as they wear anyways?
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Old 07-01-2013, 07:49 AM   #20
larryboy
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Originally Posted by jar944 View Post
There are no alignment marks on the cams or cam chain. To swap shims you must pull the cams. To re install the cams the crank must be locked @ TDC and if you follow the service manual you need the special KTM tool to re-align the cams once reinstalled
Naw, you can stop it where you want...make your own marks with a paint pen and take out the tensioner, then remove the cams as needed. There is probably some cam overlap that tries to move the engine if you leave the tensioner in and that's why they have this lockout procedure that isn't needed if you pay attention...me personally, I'd only pop one cam at a time after removing the tensioner.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Michelangelo View Post
So next time I'll know; don't look for the indent mark on the cam chain gear! I'll look for the lobes on each cam to be pointing away from each other, with the flat spots on the cams being parrallel to the ground.

BTW, my clearances were on the far loose end of what the owner's manual says. Should I leave them loose as won't they get tighter as they wear anyways?

Right, I never bother with TDC on any engine...watch your lobes and mark the cams yourself and just do it the same way next time. Like I was saying above, there is probably some cam overlap and that's why your center gear mark isn't at a true 12 o'clock.

For a recreation bike I'd leave the clearance on the loose side, if you're racin' I'd tighten them up for a little more lift and check after every race weekend.
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Old 07-01-2013, 12:31 PM   #21
jar944
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michelangelo View Post
My cam chain gear does in fact have one little indent mark but the odd thing (and thing that was causing me grief) is that it doesn't line up to the 12 o'clock position when the engine is at TDC. Is it possible that whoever put the engine back together after taking it apart, inserted that gear the wrong one, at least in regards to the indent mark?
The cam gear is secured by a taper to the cam. There is no key way to align the two together. It can be mounted in any orientation of 365 degrees to the cam. Thats the reason the mark on the cam does not line up with TDC (its not a tdc mark)

It also also allows you to run any cam timing you want as the cam can be degreed to any CLR you want just by re orienting the gears on the taper.


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Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
Naw, you can stop it where you want...make your own marks with a paint pen and take out the tensioner, then remove the cams as needed. There is probably some cam overlap that tries to move the engine if you leave the tensioner in and that's why they have this lockout procedure that isn't needed if you pay attention...me personally, I'd only pop one cam at a time after removing the tensioner.
The procedure is there for changing cams or replacing cam gears, its also the only way to ensure the gears have not slipped on the shafts (it happens). a degree or two makes a difference in the cam timing.
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