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Old 03-19-2014, 05:30 PM   #1
GoGoGavin41 OP
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Steps for Zero to Airboxless Foam Filter?

Ok, so I made the terrible mistake of buying a BMC drop in filter for my 990. Basically one dusty afternoon and went from having very clean intakes to a ridiculous amount of dirt and dust in them. Whether it's from the poor fit or pleated cotton, I don't really care, it's got to go .

In reference to switching to a CPR / SW intake:

SAS: I know I still have my SAS plumbing, so I need to take that off, I'm sure there's plenty of how-to out there.

O2 sensors (the ones on the exhaust): from what I understand, they don't HAVE to go, is that correct? I can either get the little blank out plugs or not?

Exhaust: already have Akras

TuneECU: This is what has me most confused. It's open source, so I can get the software on my laptop no problem, but can I buy a cable, or do I need to make one (the TuneECU site has me thinking I need to make it?)

Is there anything else I'm missing?
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Old 03-19-2014, 06:49 PM   #2
armourbl
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You can buy the cable. I think CPR sells them. He also has a video on TuneECU that he just put out.

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Old 03-20-2014, 05:55 AM   #3
Mikef5000
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You need to buy the filter and base plate, the SAS block off plates, and the tune-ecu cable. Rottweiler sells the stuff. Cj designs sells the stuff. Even eBay should have the latter two items.
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Old 03-20-2014, 07:00 AM   #4
laramie LC4
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i made a post with all the links to buying and making your own cable at half the price. very easy is you have any skills. do a search.

laters,

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Old 03-20-2014, 08:35 AM   #5
Dan Diego
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Good info. Thanks for posting your experience.

That is exactly why I am buying the CPR set-up.

Watching your progress...
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Old 03-20-2014, 08:36 AM   #6
DeepSea
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Gavin, Katoom did a real good write up on the SAS / Canister removal.
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:04 AM   #7
GoGoGavin41 OP
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Awesome replies guys, here's what I've got so far.

Laramie's TuneECU Cable Build As much as I like doing things myself, total cost after shipping for all parts is almost $45, compared to $62 from CJ. I think I'll avoid having to put my poor soldering skills to the test and just spend the extra $18.

SAS and canister (Deadsea): I'm pretty sure my canister is gone (that is, I haven't seen that big thing in my fairing). Block-off plates will be on their way from CJ also.

Dan: Yeah, I've got a lot of other stuff I'm going to do (valves, plugs, coolant, oil, probably some clutch work) and I'm already going to have to borrow some space in a friend's hangar. Going to leave it apart for probably a week or two.

The 990 is my main (read "only highway legal") transportation. Luckily we just got my wife this DRZ, so that'll be my ride for a while.


Next question: Anyone know if the CPR pre filter will work over the SW filter? Seems like it should and it's half the price.
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Old 03-20-2014, 11:28 AM   #8
Dan950ser
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I'm pretty postive the pre filter will fit. I think the filters are the exact same shape ones just labeled ITG and one CPR.
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Old 03-20-2014, 05:43 PM   #9
Orangecicle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoGoGavin41 View Post
Next question: Anyone know if the CPR pre filter will work over the SW filter? Seems like it should and it's half the price.
On my 950, I have an ITG filter and the red CPR pre filter. No problems.

And, think about filter oil. I use this non-alcohol stuff: http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/pr...FckWMgodGD4AtQ
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Old 03-20-2014, 08:09 PM   #10
GoGoGavin41 OP
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Ordered:

SW Filter
CJ SAS Block off plates
CJ TuneECU cable
CPR Prefilter

Oh boy, here we go...
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Old 03-21-2014, 10:40 AM   #11
BAFRPC
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This will help.

This will help.

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Old 04-01-2014, 08:38 AM   #12
GoGoGavin41 OP
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Alright, here come some questions.

So it looks like the PO got rid of the canister, but didn't necessarily do the resistor thing. The pump is gone, but I can't find the plug that should have the resistor soldered into it. It also looks like the tubes running to the intakes are still there:


Ignore the horrible intakes for now, we'll get to those in a minute.

These should be plugged off, correct? Based on the DIY, it looks like they should be capped off, but I should not mess with the electrics that are on the other side of this tube? This is a little confusing to me. The bike seems to have been running fine the way it was; should I just cap the tubes off and assume the electrics for the canister pump have been taken care of? Haha that makes me nervous just typing it.

I'm also getting rid of the SAS - it looks like TuneECU has a little check box that allows you to totally ignore the system. As I'm going to the SW filter with no SAS (that is, I'll have the box un-checked or whatever), is it really necessary for me to solder the resistor into the empty end of the SAS electrics? Seems like I should just be able to make the change in TuneECU and just tape and ziptie the plug off.

Intakes - yeah, they're really nasty looking, although most of it seems to be staining on the metal (ethanol maybe? I dono) rather than dirt. I've also seen a few other cases on here with similar looking intakes that haven't caused any problems. Should I just do my best to clean it (with the valves closed), then blow the intakes out with some compressed air?

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Old 04-01-2014, 06:47 PM   #13
Orangecicle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoGoGavin41 View Post
Alright, here come some questions.

So it looks like the PO got rid of the canister, but didn't necessarily do the resistor thing. The pump is gone, but I can't find the plug that should have the resistor soldered into it. It also looks like the tubes running to the intakes are still there:


Ignore the horrible intakes for now, we'll get to those in a minute.

These should be plugged off, correct? Based on the DIY, it looks like they should be capped off, but I should not mess with the electrics that are on the other side of this tube? This is a little confusing to me. The bike seems to have been running fine the way it was; should I just cap the tubes off and assume the electrics for the canister pump have been taken care of? Haha that makes me nervous just typing it.

I'm also getting rid of the SAS - it looks like TuneECU has a little check box that allows you to totally ignore the system. As I'm going to the SW filter with no SAS (that is, I'll have the box un-checked or whatever), is it really necessary for me to solder the resistor into the empty end of the SAS electrics? Seems like I should just be able to make the change in TuneECU and just tape and ziptie the plug off.

Intakes - yeah, they're really nasty looking, although most of it seems to be staining on the metal (ethanol maybe? I dono) rather than dirt. I've also seen a few other cases on here with similar looking intakes that haven't caused any problems. Should I just do my best to clean it (with the valves closed), then blow the intakes out with some compressed air?
Not gonna try and help on the plumbing. My 950 used two of the intake ports for carb balancing and two ports used for canister vacuum. All four are now sealed. Not sure what you need to do on the 990.

As to the intake crap, it's dissolved tank material due to ethanol. That's also what stops up your 990 fuel filters. Avoid ethanol. Oh, and you can clean that stuff out of the intakes . . . with ethanol. Check your intake valves as well just to make sure that they aren't tight. I think your buildup is due to tank material, but it could be due in part to tight intake valves, so maybe check. But your intakes looked just like mine did the first time I took my carbs off.
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Old 04-01-2014, 07:53 PM   #14
Sporting Wood
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950 or 990, make sure the lines you still have connected are sealed...or simply remove and plug with a bolt and a copper washer. Many, me included, leave 2 of the lines connected, typically on the right side since the right tank comes off easiest, and run the hoses through some zip types on the frame rail. Plug them up or the motor will be sucking unfiltered air...which isn't good. They come in handy for synching either carbs or throttle bodies but its actually pretty rare one goes out IMHO.

You also 'should' be able to turn off SAS in tuneecu but I haven't tried it to see if it still throws a light.
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Old 04-02-2014, 06:45 AM   #15
Hipster
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On my 990 I ran the below vacuum line tying the front and rear cylinders to each other.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoGoGavin41 View Post
Alright, here come some questions.

So it looks like the PO got rid of the canister, but didn't necessarily do the resistor thing. The pump is gone, but I can't find the plug that should have the resistor soldered into it. It also looks like the tubes running to the intakes are still there:


Ignore the horrible intakes for now, we'll get to those in a minute.

These should be plugged off, correct? Based on the DIY, it looks like they should be capped off, but I should not mess with the electrics that are on the other side of this tube? This is a little confusing to me. The bike seems to have been running fine the way it was; should I just cap the tubes off and assume the electrics for the canister pump have been taken care of? Haha that makes me nervous just typing it.
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