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Old 07-06-2001, 01:59 PM   #1
flipr OP
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Location: Live Oak, FL
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Talking How about KLR650 mods?

This is what I've done to my KLR650 so far...

Low or no cost mods:

Eliminate side-stand switch… remove/by-pass.
Eliminate clutch/starter lockout switch… disable.
Eliminate starter circuit relay (NOT starter relay)… remove/by-pass.
Remove plug blocking pilot screw… adjust pilot screw 2 turns open.
T - modification to carburetor breather tube.
Change fuses to blade type.

Low cost but labor intensive:

Fused clean wire direct from battery to headlight relays… original wiring and headlight switch will operate the relays for high/low beam.
Emergency switch to hot-wire/by-pass ignition switch in case of ignition switch failure/damage or lost/damaged key.
Emergency switch for lights when using emergency ignition switch.
Emergency starter-button… by-passes all safety devices.
On/off switch for lights when using factory ignition switch.
Fused leads from battery to attach battery charger, power electric vest, etc.

Now we are spending $$$:

Change rubber brake lines to braided-steel… use high-quality brake fluid.
Progressive Suspension LR fork springs and rear shock.
5-Star center-stand from arrowheadmotorsports.com
Laser Pro Duro exhaust from arrowheadmotorsports.com
Engine guard / highway pegs from happy-trails.com
SU racks and aluminum panniers from happy-trails.com
ClearView +4 windscreen and gel-grips from tour-rider.com

For pics visit: Flipr'sWorld http://www.roddenberry.net/
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Old 07-06-2001, 05:16 PM   #2
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!! Whoa !!

You've done a lot and have a very cool site with pics. Dunno how I missed that before; my son Ben just bought a KLR and I've been helping him replace the front brake & lines. Put a big Givi on the back. Gotta get on with this other stuff, because we're gonna take this dude to some faraway places.

Flipr, what to do about the lame electrical output?

I'm put a link to your page by the KLR review in the bikes section.

BTW, I'd be happy to add a forum for the KLR, but it looks like you guys have a pretty good thing going with Yahoo Groups. Cool moderator, too. The GS guys really only have an email list with a, ahem, less cool moderator.

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Old 07-06-2001, 06:20 PM   #3
flipr OP
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Hey Baldy,

The electrical output of the KLR650 is adequate... if you don't waste a drop. The stock wiring harness wastes (through resistance) so that's why I run a 'clean' fused wire direct from the battery to a pair of relays for high and low beam. This way all the OEM wiring and switches do is operate the relays. No wasted watts here! (I can't take any real credit for this 'mod', it was SOP for Euro bikes after the headlights were 'hard-wired', but alternators and switches weren't up-graded)

I absolutely DON'T ride at night, so... I change my headlight to a 35w/35w and have no problems running an electric vest (45w) but don't try to power any other accessories or additional lights.

If you have any questions about 'by-passing' any switches, just drop me an e-mail...

I've just started (this evening) a Delphi forum... Survival Bikes

http://www.delphi.com/flipr/start

This forum is intended as an all brand, back-road, adventure-tour, survival-bike, rat-bike forum... don't know what direction it will take yet.

You are correct about the DSN_KLR group at Yahoo! We definitely have a good thing going there, but... I'm always looking for additional sources of info.
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Old 07-07-2001, 01:46 PM   #4
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like Baldy said, for the most part... we haven't done anything serious yet on my new KLR...

We purchased new brake, and the SS braided brake lines. Added a Givi topbox. That is about it right now.

I want to put a few hundred more miles on it before I decide what *I* need.... I am a pretty light guy, so not convinced I am going to need new front fork springs. (Though I haven't gotten the new brakes I bought installed yet, Fred in Moab told me it could possibly make a large difference. But like I said, I am a lightweight... so might not be as big a deal).

I fine with the stock seat right now, though I haven't taken this bike out on any 200+ mile trips yet. So we will see.

The two things that I can see really bugging me right now on a long trip, and hence requiring modification are:

1) Up around 60mph, the vibration on the handlebars makes my hands itch/hurt (you know what I mean). I figure this is what all the guys on the KLR list recommend gel grips for. How big a difference is this going to make for me? Will it cure the problem?

2) Wind buffeting. I am pretty tall, so I at least don't get the turbulence in the head... but enough buffeting on the chest for long periods of time will most likely drive me crazy. I am really tempted to just take the sheild off and try it with just clean air (it is the buffeting, not the wind that kills me). If that works, means I don't have to spend a lot of money with other solutions. Reading the KLR list, I haven't seen too many solutions that people are REALLY happy about so far. What are your opinions on the various options for this?

I know a lot of guys run out right away and start changing everything... for me, I am going to spend some serious time riding it and figuring out exactly what I want and don't want before I start tearing my KLR apart. ;-)
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Old 07-07-2001, 02:31 PM   #5
flipr OP
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Hey Ben,

<>

A very good idea! In retrospect the only mod I should have done sooner was changing to braided-steel brake lines... other than that I rode until I needed a 'solution' and don't feel that I've wasted money on items that don't work as planned. I still suggest doing the 'free' mods first... these don't really change the bike, just by-pass a couple 'possible' trouble spots.

<<1) Up around 60mph, the vibration on the handlebars makes my hands itch/hurt (you know what I mean). I figure this is what all the guys on the KLR list recommend gel grips for. How big a difference is this going to make for me? Will it cure the problem?>>

Yes, I have gel-grips... 3 things have combined to make my KLR650 'smoother', (1) the gel-grips, (2) I use a 'throttle-rocker', and (3) the most noticeable difference on my bike... passing the 3,000 mile mark. Some where after 3,000 mile I realized the bike was 'smoother'... this in combination with the gel-grips, the 'throttle-rocker', and making an effort to keep the engine in it's 'smoothest' range (3,800 to 4,500 rpm) is what works for me.

<<2) Wind buffeting. What are your opinions on the various options for this? >>

This is such an individual 'taste' that you will just have to experiment to find out what 'suits' you... Try riding without (as you already suggested) any windscreen, this may well be the answer for you. I like the +4 ClearView on my bike, but my typical ride is 60 mph on rural back-roads...
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Old 07-09-2001, 06:22 AM   #6
Mully
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re: "How About KLR 650 Mods?"

Phil:

I think you may find the Progressive "LR" springs too stiff for a quality ride on yer KLR: I had them last summer on my trip to Maine, and I couldn't wait to get them off (I weigh , so unless you're well over 100Kg, stay stock).

On windscreens, fuhgeddaboud getting a screen that doesn't buffet. Tank panniers help a little, but the only way to get clean air is to stay with the stock small screen. You're going to get wet anyway, so why suffer the buffeting?

The best money you can spend on a KLR is the centerstand; next best, brake lines; next best, a "real" shock (your stocker is going to wear out in 20K anyway).

On handlebar vibration: try some Renthal "Jimmy Button Replica" alloy bars with gel grips. The stiffer aluminum has a different resonant harmonic than the steel and are better. They move you forward a little, too, which helps with the wind problem. (Disregard if you're over about 6'2", as they'll be too low).

I had the Happy Trails boxes: they're cobby, but are water-tight and well-made - a great value. If I had it to do again, I'd spring for a set of Jesse "Odysseys", on grounds they fit tighter, give better cornering and ground clearance, and are easier to look at.

There have been endless discussions on exhausts on the DSN_KLR650 forum, and many, many people have reported that aftermarket exhausts are flimsy, require frequent repacking, and are too noisy for long-distance comfort. They also don't yield any significant power gains (and some have gone so far as to dyno their bikes). Save your money for chains and tires.

On power: drill the idle mixture screw plug and turn the screw open an additional 1/8 turn; go up one size on the main jet; add 0.020" shims under the jet needle and you'll have a nice-running engine that doesn't stumble or surge and has good fuel economy. Don't bother drilling the airbox, all it does is make more noise. You don't need a Dynojet kit, and AFAIC K&N filters are the rough equivalent of stuffing an old sweat sock in your airbox. There isn't much else you can do to get more power short of major mods which aren't worth it.

HTH
GSM
:)
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Old 07-09-2001, 07:55 AM   #7
flipr OP
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Everything on my list is what I am actually using, nothing included that was tried and died, no vapor ware...

<>

I'm using the Progressive LR springs with a 1-5/8" spacer (instead of the suggested 2") and use 400cc of Mobil 1 synthetic ATF per fork tube... ride quality is excellent. (100 kg is about right for my weight)

<>

My +4 ClearView is the same size as Kawasaki's large KLR650 windscreen... it keeps the main force of the wind off my chest and shoulders, I don't experience buffeting at the speeds I ride. (I sit tall)

<>

Using a 5-Star centerstand, galfer brake lines, and a Progressive Suspension LR rear shock...

<>

I don't have enough vibration to worry about... mirrors are clear at 60 mph, between the gel-grips and throttle rocker, no problems with my 300 mile days. But if I have to change bars for some reason...

<>

I use a set of Give 21L Cruiser bags as my everyday panniers, the Happy-Trail aluminum panniers for long distance... not concerned with the appearance, prefer the lids that I can completely remove, no hinge to give problems.

<>

The Laser Pro Duro (check with the GS crowd as well) is a quality made, stainless, all mechanical, (no packing to blow out) exhaust that performs better at low to mid-range, tone is lower but not louder, can't hear it at cruising speeds. The exhaust exits further back than stock, keeping the rear of the bike and my panniers clean...

<>

The idle mix screw was set at 7/8 turn (as specified for US bikes), Euro spec is 1-7/8 turn with the same jetting... With the Laser Pro Duro, stock air-box, stock carb/jets, K&N sweat sock, and the idle mix screw set to 2 turns open... Starts easily cold, quick warm-up, no lean surge at any speed, no popping on deceleration or trailing throttle. I probably just leave it alone. Oh yeah... I've filed away most of the tube/shroud that the idle mix screw is in... now I can adjust the idle mix with the engine running. (using one of the screwdriver bits (about an inch long) from my magnetic screwdriver)

I am using a Bunz-Ez gel-pad (14" x 14" x 1/2") on rides 100 miles or longer... may well go to a custom saddle eventually.
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Old 09-22-2005, 05:23 AM   #8
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Old 09-22-2005, 07:57 AM   #9
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I got rid of my buffeting by adding large deflectors to my barkbusters. From the front my bike looks like it has a full windjammer with a short shield. Clean air up to 80.
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Old 09-22-2005, 12:03 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flipr
Remove plug blocking pilot screw? adjust pilot screw 2 turns open.
Would you happen to have details or pics of this procedure. I've read the BigCee FAQ file, but can't seem to figure out how to do it.
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Old 09-22-2005, 01:18 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gadget Boy
Would you happen to have details or pics of this procedure. I've read the BigCee FAQ file, but can't seem to figure out how to do it.
It's pretty easy to do. Remove the choke cable at the handlebar end, takes a 4mm allen, to make slack. Remove the phillips on the r/s of the carb, and the bracket, and wiggle the cables from the carb. Loosen the front and rear band clamps on the ends on the carb/boots. Carefully - twist the carb so the bottom is to the right - some people say left - remember to watch the choke cable, and keep it free. Sometimes I have to wiggle the wires around the top of the carb, or even loosen the relay bracket (2 bolts using a 10mm socket) on the left side of the bike, near the top of the carb. When you have the bottom around far enough, use a 1/8 drill to make a hole in the plub - it's only about 1/8 thick, and you don't want to drill into the screw farther in there. Then use a sheet metal screw to remove the plug. Now lightly screw tthe mixture all the way in, and back out 2.25 turns. That's ballpark close for most people. Then reassemble, and tighten. Takes me longer to type than to do......

p.s. there is a good KLR forum out there - I don't know the protocol here about advertising other forums, but I'm sure someone will speak up.
all the best,

Mike
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Old 09-22-2005, 07:58 PM   #12
myblubeemer
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Joined: May 2004
Location: Irving, Texas
Oddometer: 454
Quote:
Originally Posted by flipr
This is what I've done to my KLR650 so far...

Low or no cost mods:

Eliminate side-stand switch? remove/by-pass.
Eliminate clutch/starter lockout switch? disable.
Eliminate starter circuit relay (NOT starter relay)? remove/by-pass.
Remove plug blocking pilot screw? adjust pilot screw 2 turns open.
T - modification to carburetor breather tube.
Change fuses to blade type.

Low cost but labor intensive:

Fused clean wire direct from battery to headlight relays? original wiring and headlight switch will operate the relays for high/low beam.
Emergency switch to hot-wire/by-pass ignition switch in case of ignition switch failure/damage or lost/damaged key.
Emergency switch for lights when using emergency ignition switch.
Emergency starter-button? by-passes all safety devices.
On/off switch for lights when using factory ignition switch.
Fused leads from battery to attach battery charger, power electric vest, etc.

Now we are spending $$$:

Change rubber brake lines to braided-steel? use high-quality brake fluid.
Progressive Suspension LR fork springs and rear shock.
5-Star center-stand from arrowheadmotorsports.com
Laser Pro Duro exhaust from arrowheadmotorsports.com
Engine guard / highway pegs from happy-trails.com
SU racks and aluminum panniers from happy-trails.com
ClearView +4 windscreen and gel-grips from tour-rider.com

For pics visit: Flipr'sWorld http://www.roddenberry.net/
You've done a great job changing out the things that will get you the best return on your KLR. Do yourself a favor and go one step further on the front forks and add Race Tech Cartridge Emulators. I guarantee you be very happy with the results and will see a world of difference.

Good luck...........GREAT BIKE!

Jwat
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Old 10-30-2006, 09:07 AM   #13
kakashi
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Question

1. Any recommended gel-grips? Will anything from the Parts Unlimited Offroad catalog work?

2. How long to gel-grips last compared with regular grips?
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Old 10-30-2006, 09:18 AM   #14
caffeine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben
like Baldy said, for the most part... we haven't done anything serious yet on my new KLR...

We purchased new brake, and the SS braided brake lines. Added a Givi topbox. That is about it right now.

I want to put a few hundred more miles on it before I decide what *I* need.... I am a pretty light guy, so not convinced I am going to need new front fork springs. (Though I haven't gotten the new brakes I bought installed yet, Fred in Moab told me it could possibly make a large difference. But like I said, I am a lightweight... so might not be as big a deal).

I fine with the stock seat right now, though I haven't taken this bike out on any 200+ mile trips yet. So we will see.

Ive taken mine on 500 mile a day and the stock seat is fine for me...i do notice however as its being broken in, its getting a LITTLE bit worse, but not enough to warrent a replacement yet. Im 160lbs

The two things that I can see really bugging me right now on a long trip, and hence requiring modification are:

1) Up around 60mph, the vibration on the handlebars makes my hands itch/hurt (you know what I mean). I figure this is what all the guys on the KLR list recommend gel grips for. How big a difference is this going to make for me? Will it cure the problem?


No it wont cure it. BUT new alum bars with gell grips and bar end weights OR new wrap around bark busters WILL help SIGNIFICANTLY.



2) Wind buffeting. I am pretty tall, so I at least don't get the turbulence in the head... but enough buffeting on the chest for long periods of time will most likely drive me crazy. I am really tempted to just take the sheild off and try it with just clean air (it is the buffeting, not the wind that kills me). If that works, means I don't have to spend a lot of money with other solutions. Reading the KLR list, I haven't seen too many solutions that people are REALLY happy about so far. What are your opinions on the various options for this?

depends, some guys take it off like you said, or get a really tall wind screen, mine hits me right in the helmet, so im going to go with a medium sized windscreen. i'm 5'8"

I know a lot of guys run out right away and start changing everything... for me, I am going to spend some serious time riding it and figuring out exactly what I want and don't want before I start tearing my KLR apart. ;-)

best thing someone with a new KLR has said, most people start planning farkles before they even get the bike. i feel the same way and only change things that i need to change.

BTW DONT bother with the expensive honda anti-vibration mirrors, they just dont do much if anything at all, i went with them and i think they are a waste.

fred of course, at arrowhead is amazingly fast with shipping and advice.


answered above, mine is an 07 and ive only had it two months but ive put 5000+ miles on it.
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Old 03-29-2008, 03:35 PM   #15
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KLR Mods

Flpr,

Could you post a link to those mods, I believed you said to got them from a Euro site? Thanks much appreciated!
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