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Old 07-02-2013, 10:14 AM   #16
concours
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ultrachrome View Post
Pressure bleeding is forcing the fluid in through the bleed screw? How would I keep fluid leaking out of the threads?
You force it through the master cyl, bleeder threads don't leak as there is no pressure, just draining
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Old 07-02-2013, 10:52 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by bomber60015 View Post
Try reverse bleeding . . . . .force fluid (under pressure) from the bleed fitting up to the master cyclinder.

I use a syringe I copped at a farm & Fleet like place, designed for vets (no needle) . . . . pop the right sized tubing on the the business end, fill with fluid, put the tubing on the fitting, crack it, and push the fluid up.

Easy, cheap, and effective.

The looks on your buddie's faces when you pull the big honkin syringe outa your tool chest? priceless.
+1...I use this reverse method to bleed my clutch slave. For my front brakes I use this Motion Pro Mini Bleeder:

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0529/
Works great and very fast!
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Old 07-02-2013, 04:16 PM   #18
troidus
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I once used engine vacuum to bleed a new brake installation on a trailer. The MityVac wasn't doing it and pumping wasn't really an option (surge brake trailer coupler), so I was at a loss. As soon as I had a steady high-volume vacuum supply, I discovered that I had a really large leak at a fitting, which is why I couldn't get any fluid to move any other way.

I did have a catch bottle in between to make sure I didn't get any brake fluid into the engine.
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Old 07-03-2013, 06:04 PM   #19
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Really? You guys think tape is going to get into the system?



Use a narrow strip, make sure to not get it down onto the tapered part of the bleed screw and go to town with your preferred vacuum or pressure system. Once the bleeder is tightened down, the tapered part seats against the caliper and seals. No way anything's getting past it.
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Old 07-03-2013, 09:39 PM   #20
JimVonBaden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motomedic View Post
Really? You guys think tape is going to get into the system?



Use a narrow strip, make sure to not get it down onto the tapered part of the bleed screw and go to town with your preferred vacuum or pressure system. Once the bleeder is tightened down, the tapered part seats against the caliper and seals. No way anything's getting past it.
YOU and probably I could be sure to do it right, but I shy away from recommending it on an open forum with people of unknown skills doing it.

Besides, there is no need for it, the bleeders do not seal on the threads anyhow.

Jim
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Old 07-05-2013, 06:38 AM   #21
Boatman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motomedic View Post
Really? You guys think tape is going to get into the system?



Use a narrow strip, make sure to not get it down onto the tapered part of the bleed screw and go to town with your preferred vacuum or pressure system. Once the bleeder is tightened down, the tapered part seats against the caliper and seals. No way anything's getting past it.

Thanks for saying what I was thinking.

If/when I use tape, I back the bleeder out a couple turns. Then I twist the tape into a thin rope and a wrap around the threads, turn the bleeder in a bit and its sealed.

Just sayin'.
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Old 07-05-2013, 11:30 AM   #22
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I attempted to bleed the fronts yesterday and discovered that air being pulled in even when the nipple was closed.

I tried a zip tie to get a better seal on the hose and when that failed, some safety wire which also proved insufficient.

I did a manual bleed without vacuum, didn't get any bubbles from the caliper so I called it good for now.
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Old 07-08-2013, 10:47 AM   #23
Bill the Bong
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I have a Series 2 Land Rover. Only way I could bleed it clean was by using PTFE tape. Only vehicle that I ever had to resolve to doing this. Mostly use a large syringe to force in fluid from the bleeder end for almost anything.
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Old 07-08-2013, 11:30 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Bill the Bong View Post
I have a Series 2 Land Rover. Only way I could bleed it clean was by using PTFE tape. Only vehicle that I ever had to resolve to doing this. Mostly use a large syringe to force in fluid from the bleeder end for almost anything.
I've got a couple other brakes to bleed, I may try that method as well.
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Old 08-20-2013, 08:35 PM   #25
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Are the bubbles in the vacuum bleeder always from air, or could they be cavitation?
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Old 08-20-2013, 08:43 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heart_of_darkness View Post
Are the bubbles in the vacuum bleeder always from air, or could they be cavitation?
Always air, but sometimes past the threads, and sometimes from the system. You learn to tell the difference.

Jim
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Old 08-21-2013, 06:10 AM   #27
Stan_R80/7
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The two methods I have had the best luck with are: a.) forcing brake fluid through the system by pressurizing the MC, and b.) opening a bleed screw and letting gravity drain the fluid and any entrained air. Neither technique is especially fast or 'set it and forget it'.

I have tried (and still have) many types of brake bleeding gadgets from the Mity-vac system, one-way valve bleeder lines, and putting the bleed line in a container with brake fluid. All are fiddly, make a mess, and seem to allow air to get back into the brake lines. I have also put teflon tape on bleed screw threads - but I only have fluid going out of the bleeder screw.

I wish the money and time I spend on bleeder gadgets was justified. But, it hasn't been. My Mity-Vac is now used more as a hand vacuum pump - but in a pinch it will suck old brake fluid from a MC. Most of the problem I found was getting the bleed screw threads to not draw in air and getting the tubing to stay attached. The principle behind the gadgets is sound but getting tubing slick with brake fluid to stay on the bleed screw nipple and form a seal and air leaking around the bleed screw threads always shows up. But, if another gadget showed up that addressed these issues I would probably buy one - even with a healthy skepticism that it likely won't work.
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Old 08-21-2013, 09:51 AM   #28
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Just FYI, mity-vac recommends a bit of teflon tape, if you are getting bubbles:

FAQ #2 here:
http://www.mityvac.com/pages/info_faq.asp

Once you have been using the MV for a while, you will skip the tape and know when the bubbles are "right or wrong", as was described earlier in this thread.
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Old 08-21-2013, 03:45 PM   #29
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ultrachome

Buy some new bleeders and don't over torque em

No Tape, no grease.

Never had a bleeder that required more than 3/4 turn to bleed with Mityvac.

Now grease on the vacuum tube, downstream...I am good with that.


Teflon tape belongs on water systems not hydraulic systems. It is a poor practice that can and does contaminate...

http://www.sbp.noaa.gov/resources/en..._Leak_Free.pdf

Check with any airplane mechanic see how they do it.
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