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Old 07-15-2013, 09:21 AM   #16
cberry OP
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July 8th and 9th

Catching up is hard to do. July 8th was a rest day and welcome time spent visiting a long time friend in Bulverde, TX.

July 9th. Up at 5AM. Prepped the bike and went to Rox’s favorite nearby restaurant for 6AM Breakfast. None of the airport bums joined us...too early. The ride over to Madina was uneventful. Of note though, were the 9 deer on and off the road within a few miles of Rox’s.

Entering the area of the 3 Sisters there was a sign stating that 11 bikers had died since January 1st riding the roads. Fair warning! The ride was pleasant. Some tricky spots, but in general only about a 7 out of 10 when the whole ride is included. Not much space on the shoulders to stop and take pictures or sightsee. Very little tourist support infrastructure...few places to stop and eat or relax.

Here's a pic of an interesting building in Leakey, TX, near where the ride begins


and, here's a place mark for the area


The ride from there on to Van Horn was hot and boring. Speed limit is 80 in this part of Texas, which does help. But its still a long way between places. No rain today. Had to stop a couple of times to rehydrate and cool the core down. Probably didn’t do it enough. Temps got up to the high 90’s in bright sun. There was a strong quartering crosswind which elevated the noise level to an uncomfortable level for most of the I 10 portion of the ride.
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'05 R1200RT, '09 G650GS
IBA 27506, National Parks Tour GOLD
MOA 94523
Indian Harbour Beach, FL
'06/'07....What a year it was! 49 States, 5 Provinces, AND New Zealand, North and South Island

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Old 07-15-2013, 02:11 PM   #17
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July 10, 2013: Van Horn TX to Morenci, AZ

Spent last night at the Days Inn. The wifi did not work reliably. Up early, on the road at 7AM with intention of going to the El Paso BMW dealer for rear tire replacement. Well, they didn’t have what I needed but were very helpful in trying to locate a source. The ‘B’ model of the Pilot Road 3 tire is out of stock most everywhere. I’ll have to settle for the ‘A’ model when I get one. That replacement is now planned for Friday on the way to Durango, CO. This issue took 2 or 3 hours to reach a point where I was comfortable enough to get back on the road. That, because of store opening times and time zone changes.

Sunrise along I-10 in West Texas


Early morning rest stop


Lunch in El Paso


Today was the first day I used my evaporative vest and it has proven very helpful. It requires refilling after less than an hour, but is really helping to keep my core cool. Leaving El Paso at about noon put me into the hottest part of the day for the ride. Chose a more scenic route that the quickest one along I 10 which was US 180 through Silver City, NM and then SR 78 across the mountains to Morenci. All of the sweat and boredom getting to that road was worth it! Route 180 is very straight and lonely, and the speed limit is only 65. Thought I’d never reach Route 78. Made multiple stops for rehydration after leaving El Paso because the air temp was in the high 90’s all the time.

SR 78 brought me down from about 5000 feet to 3000,and the temperature increased along the way to become very uncomfortable. The road itself is an excellent surface, well maintained and lightly traveled. Lots of twists and elevation changes. I watched a mountain thunderstorm develop before the turn to 78, and with the nearby lightening I was motivated to move right along. (Read: speed limited only by road surface.)

Radar of the approaching thunderstorm


Top of Route 78


Heads Up...This is going to be fun


Just a Sample of the route


At the bottom of Rt 78 is this interesting town, Clifton, AZ


Rt 78 is a great warm up for the Coronado Trail!
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'05 R1200RT, '09 G650GS
IBA 27506, National Parks Tour GOLD
MOA 94523
Indian Harbour Beach, FL
'06/'07....What a year it was! 49 States, 5 Provinces, AND New Zealand, North and South Island
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Old 07-15-2013, 02:36 PM   #18
cberry OP
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July 11, 2013: Morenci to Canyon de Chelly, AZ

This route was entirely along US 191. It is the most fantastic road that I have ever ridden. What more can I say?

Starting out from the Morenci Motel, which I must add is an excellent choice if you can get a reservation. Don’t just show up. The motel serves the many contractors who support the huge mining operation there. The mine is huge! Everything about this ride is over the top. The few pictures I have taken do not do justice to the scenery or the ride.

Morenci Motel Display of Copper Products


The road out of Morenci through the mine



To be a little more specific, the best part of the ride is from Morenci to Alpine, a distance of about 90 miles. It’s ten times “The Dragon”, which is only 11 miles long and has minimal elevation changes. The “Coronado Trail” starts around 3000 feet and rises to about 9300 feet, with many 10mph hairpin curves. In fact, a majority of the route is run in 2nd gear, with occasional 1st gear turns at the hairpins, and 3rd gear straightaways. I enjoyed this ride so much last year that I had to come back again. And, its even better headed north because the elevations are mostly increasing, allowing less use of the brakes.

I thought this was maximum altitude, but it was not


A good companion to Alpine for Breakfast



Further north there are few gas stations. I was running low and preoccupied with finding one. When I did, I exited the road onto a dirt path leading to the station and quickly found the ‘sugar sand’, deep, soft sugar sand. The result was predictable. Since I was on Native American land, the Navaho Nation, two local residents were quick to help me pick the bike up and carry my luggage to the station. Just my pride was injured, the bike was fine.

At my stop for the night, Canyon de Chelly National Monument, I rode the South Rim shortly before sunset. What a very beautiful and impressive site. The early natives here lived and raised crops on the canyon floor, and still do. Pictures do not do justice of the subject:








As sunset approaches


About 331 miles today over the now usual 10 hours. I’m getting confused about the time. My bike has one time, wrist watch another, and the clerks at the stores, another. I’ve gone from CDT to MDT to MST, and back to MDT, all within a 2 day timeframe.
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Chuck
'05 R1200RT, '09 G650GS
IBA 27506, National Parks Tour GOLD
MOA 94523
Indian Harbour Beach, FL
'06/'07....What a year it was! 49 States, 5 Provinces, AND New Zealand, North and South Island

cberry screwed with this post 07-15-2013 at 04:16 PM
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Old 07-15-2013, 03:13 PM   #19
mark1305
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Guess I'll have to stay tuned to this RR as another Space Coaster.
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Old 07-15-2013, 04:25 PM   #20
cberry OP
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For Squonker

I'll be looking for you as I travel from Republic, WA to Yellowknife and return to Nakusp for the BMW rally August 15 through 18. Check my SPOT to see real-time positions.
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Chuck
'05 R1200RT, '09 G650GS
IBA 27506, National Parks Tour GOLD
MOA 94523
Indian Harbour Beach, FL
'06/'07....What a year it was! 49 States, 5 Provinces, AND New Zealand, North and South Island
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Old 07-15-2013, 04:56 PM   #21
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July 12,2013 Canyon de Chelly, AZ to Ouray, CO, via Four Corners

Yesterday and today’s trip north fill in a part of the country that I have been missing on my other trips. I’m glad I included these places on this trip. I have a new rear tire waiting for me in Mancos, CO, and its right on the route. The ride to Mancos is replete with beautiful rock formations similar to the more well known “Monument Vally”. All shape and manor of rocks. Pictures do not do the area justice. They don’t show the nuances of changes in color and shape as one sees the formations from different perspectives.





Four Corners


The tire change was scheduled at Basin Motorcycle Works, an independent mostly BMW bike shop, and a very good one at that. New rear brake pads were also installed as it was apparent that the old ones were near the limit of their life, as was the tire. It proved to be a case of perfect timing. The staff suggested that I take a different route than the planned one to Ouray to avoid congestion along the route that goes through SilverCity. The route was typical mountain valley routing along a meandering stream with additional elevation changes up to over 10,000 feet, and included was the additional bonus of late afternoon scattered rain showers. I was glad that I had stopped to put on my rain jacket, for both the rain and the temperature, which briefly reached a low of 47 degrees.

Ouray is a quaint tourist resort town where the main draw are the hot springs and the mountain atmosphere. I was too tired for anything but a meal and sleep. (Ride, Eat, Sleep, Repeat!) Tomorrow’s another day. On today’s ride of 288 miles the bike turned over 100,000 miles!

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Chuck
'05 R1200RT, '09 G650GS
IBA 27506, National Parks Tour GOLD
MOA 94523
Indian Harbour Beach, FL
'06/'07....What a year it was! 49 States, 5 Provinces, AND New Zealand, North and South Island
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Old 07-15-2013, 06:10 PM   #22
Oldone
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Great ride report

I plan to ride the Coronado Trail in Oct. but at 70 yrs. old then, I guess you've got me beat! Thanks for taking the time for a great entertaining RR and many many congratulations for some awesome miles.


Gary "Oldone"

Grampa’s Lake Superior Ride
Grampa’s National Monument Ride

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Old 07-15-2013, 06:29 PM   #23
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Hey Chuck. Great to see your logging the big miles again.
I have a sister in Yellowknife so if you need anything let me know and I will get you her contact info. You know how we Newfies like company.
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Old 07-15-2013, 08:50 PM   #24
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Thanks Murph

Been too long, 3 years since I visited the Rock, and I miss it, you, and all the gang at RTR. Hopefully I'll get back next year. I'm kind of waiting for the TLH to be completed hard surface. Solo last time on gravel was too risky for my old bones. I had to give it up. And, the year before that I was going to do it with Jimmy, but my knee gave out after we did some practice in a gravel pit the day before we were going to take the ferry.

Your message is a godsend. Maybe your sister knows someone who would have the room and be willing to take on a boarder for a few days, starting around July 31st or August 1st. Schedule is flexible and I could stay maybe up to a week, but not at motel prices.

I haven't kept up with this year's soiree. I hope its back at Mike's place. That West Coast one could not compare. Sorry I can't be in two places at once, or I'd try to make it, although timing makes it almost impossible. You know...Choices: I want to complete my map of Canada, and I only need Northwest Territory...Nunavut doesn't have any roads leading up to it that I am aware of. After Yellowknife I plan to swing down to Nakusp for the BeeCee Beemers rally and hope to again be the guest from the furtherest away place.

Take care. Stay in touch.
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Chuck
'05 R1200RT, '09 G650GS
IBA 27506, National Parks Tour GOLD
MOA 94523
Indian Harbour Beach, FL
'06/'07....What a year it was! 49 States, 5 Provinces, AND New Zealand, North and South Island
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Old 07-16-2013, 01:00 PM   #25
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I sent her your contact info and let her know what you need. Hoping for you she can help but I told her how interesting you are.

Edit....PMed you her contact info
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:25 PM   #26
cberry OP
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July 13, 2013: Ouray, CO, to Vernal, UT

Late yesterday afternoon a number of Harley’s arrived to spend the night. The next morning I heard them start-up and run for just a minute or less. This happened several times, and I couldn’t figure what the were doing until I opened my door and saw the owners diligently washing and detaining their bikes. When asked why I wasn’t washing mine, I just said that the rain I rode through and the additional rain last evening were enough.

The stop at Black Canyon of the Gunnison NP was worth the time and distance. Another incredibly beautiful spot, not properly seen by individual photos. Two canyons in as many days. I’m so glad I came this way!






Route CO 139 out of Loma, CO is another of those over the top roads. My Spotwalla tracks 86 and 87 show the horseshoe curves very well, and that’s where I stopped to take pictures. The rest of the ride to Rangely was also terrific and could be ridden at speed with almost no traffic...none that passed me, anyhow. Again, motivation came in part from the Wx depiction on the GPS.



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Chuck
'05 R1200RT, '09 G650GS
IBA 27506, National Parks Tour GOLD
MOA 94523
Indian Harbour Beach, FL
'06/'07....What a year it was! 49 States, 5 Provinces, AND New Zealand, North and South Island

cberry screwed with this post 07-17-2013 at 05:29 AM Reason: Added pictures
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:43 PM   #27
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July 14 & 15, 2013: Ouray, CO to Mt. Home AFB, ID

Today’s ride started out fine and then got very cold as I gained altitude. I had to stop at 9AM to warm up and have something to eat. As the day progressed the temperature started to climb and it began to feel like I was standing in front of a giant hair dryer. The air was oppressive and, near the end of the ride I had to stop and cool off some. I was suffering from heat exhaustion and looked like a broiled lobster. Fortunately there were only 10 more miles to go.

This was just a repositioning ride, but I did stop and get a couple of pictures along the way. It was another long day, about 500 miles and another 10 hours.

Ridgway Reservoir State Park, CO


Ute Tribe Headquarters, Bottle Hollow, UT


The rest day was July 15th, and I had a chance to catch up on things, including an update on this Ride Report with photos.
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Chuck
'05 R1200RT, '09 G650GS
IBA 27506, National Parks Tour GOLD
MOA 94523
Indian Harbour Beach, FL
'06/'07....What a year it was! 49 States, 5 Provinces, AND New Zealand, North and South Island

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Old 07-17-2013, 05:51 AM   #28
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July 16, Mt. Home to Burns, OR

This was a repositioning day with an oil change thrown in for fun. After the service the temperature had reached the high 90’s again, so the rest of the ride was uncomfortable. The route was about 30% interstate and 70% country roads with some nice twisties thrown in. No pictures were taken and the in-transit time was only 4 hours, but the delays made it another 10 hour day.

At the end of these long, hot, grueling days I’m simply too tired to update the thread, in case you were wondering. Age, and the heat are my excuses. I love the thought of another 500 mile day...but wish I could control the weather.
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Chuck
'05 R1200RT, '09 G650GS
IBA 27506, National Parks Tour GOLD
MOA 94523
Indian Harbour Beach, FL
'06/'07....What a year it was! 49 States, 5 Provinces, AND New Zealand, North and South Island
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:06 AM   #29
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hope you have fun

Chuck,

SOO sorry I did not get a chance to talk before I left on my trip.

I had the opportunity to "leave" town on Saturday instead of the following Friday , 6 days early, and head up to Chicago on the bike. This gave me a start from Chicago on Wednesday instead of Sunday as planned.

Made it 8000 miles over 11.5 riding days and 14 days on the road.

Have fun and keep us posted ..

Paul
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:29 PM   #30
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nice.
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