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Old 07-07-2013, 02:53 AM   #1
beemer pimp OP
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rear main crank seal change

Hi to All.
I got myself crashed bike for project 97 1100rt 60k mils, so far i have bike apart my plan is to change all seals and bearings, clutch and other parts need change, but i have dilemma should i change crank seal???? i have fly wheel off and seal looks in good condition, i have new seal and all but what i read in treads its bit fiddly job and if don’t get it right last think i want to have problem when put bike together. ( if not broken don’t fixed ) So my question haw often cranks seal go and when yous do work on clutch would you bother with new seal??
By the way i use motoworks fo parts any recommendations?
Thanks for your time Val

beemer pimp screwed with this post 07-07-2013 at 09:29 AM
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Old 07-07-2013, 03:57 AM   #2
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Not an expert here, but If I was there I would do it. Seal on crank will wet your new clutch, not worth risking IMO.
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Old 07-07-2013, 04:37 AM   #3
Mega watt maker
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I changed the seal on my '97 RT when I did the clutch. It takes a special tool to install correctly. It can be done without it, but its very easy to ruin the seal, and you are not 100% sure its installed correctly...which will lead to a massive PITA if its not. I ordered the tool from MAX, it took 3 weeks to get it from Germany, and cost $100 bucks. Its a real slick tool and makes putting the seal in correctly a snap. while you are at it, put a new seal on the transmission input shaft......just dont drive the seal in too deep....there is NO ridge to stop it from going too deep!! (ask me how I know!!!)

PM me, we can talk about lending or selling you the tool at a discount...I dont think Ill need it again.
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Old 07-07-2013, 04:44 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega watt maker View Post
I changed the seal on my '97 RT when I did the clutch. It takes a special tool to install correctly. It can be done without it, but its very easy to ruin the seal, and you are not 100% sure its installed correctly...which will lead to a massive PITA if its not. I ordered the tool from MAX, it took 3 weeks to get it from Germany, and cost $100 bucks. Its a real slick tool and makes putting the seal in correctly a snap. while you are at it, put a new seal on the transmission input shaft......just dont drive the seal in too deep....there is NO ridge to stop it from going too deep!! (ask me how I know!!!)

PM me, we can talk about lending or selling you the tool at a discount...I dont think Ill need it again.

A yeah I have gearbox apart and do all seals and bearings , tool yeah would be handy
So what we talking about I'm in Dublin Ireland ha ha
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Old 07-07-2013, 05:24 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by beemer pimp View Post
A yeah I have gearbox apart and do all seals and bearings , tool yeah would be handy
So what we talking about I'm in Dublin Ireland ha ha
Im in central Pennsylvania USA,


UPS delivers world wide my friend!!!

Like I said, I dont think Ill be needing the tool again.

PM me.
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Old 07-07-2013, 01:46 PM   #6
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When the rear main crank shaft seal started leaking on my '95 R1100GS, it took 3 trys before I got it fixed. The first try was with a home made tool, the second & third was with the $100 BMW tool. I talked to the BMW macanics, before the third try. They told me, do not do what the repair manual says. Just put the seal on the tool & let it set 30 minets or so. Then put it on. The manual says to hand form it be for you put it on the tool. Aperately that streches the seal too much.

It is not a lot of fun if you have to almost brake the bike in half 3 times to get a leak fix
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Old 07-07-2013, 01:53 PM   #7
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IMHO, don't buy trouble. If it is not leaking, do not change it. You know how hard it is to split the bike, and you will not know if it is working properly until you assemble the bike.

Jim
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Old 07-07-2013, 04:33 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knee Dragger View Post
When the rear main crank shaft seal started leaking on my '95 R1100GS, it took 3 trys before I got it fixed. The first try was with a home made tool, the second & third was with the $100 BMW tool. I talked to the BMW macanics, before the third try. They told me, do not do what the repair manual says. Just put the seal on the tool & let it set 30 minets or so. Then put it on. The manual says to hand form it be for you put it on the tool. Aperately that streches the seal too much.

It is not a lot of fun if you have to almost brake the bike in half 3 times to get a leak fix

I had no trouble at all when I did it...but I had the tool. Have 8 thousand on the clock since the change and no problems. Lots of oil was the trick, but then, I was a powerhouse mechanic for years, and worked seals set up very similar (must be a German thing....lots of stuff at my old plant was made there) and kinda knew what had to be done. I could have gotten by without to tool once I saw with my own eyes what I was up against, but I had already bought the tool so I used it..... it is a slick devise.

I would change the seal.....why do all the work to get to it and not...then 5K miles form now the old one fails? its a dice roll either way, but your chances are better with a new seal...if you take care in installing it.
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Old 07-07-2013, 04:47 PM   #9
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When I rebuilt the R1100, I used electrical pvc piping (grey) to sit each seal on the crank.

rear seals





front seal

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Old 07-08-2013, 12:07 AM   #10
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Quote:
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When I rebuilt the R1100, I used electrical pvc piping (grey) to sit each seal on the crank.
That looks spot on . Thanks for that
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Old 07-08-2013, 06:24 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krellheat View Post
When I rebuilt the R1100, I used electrical pvc piping (grey) to sit each seal on the crank.

rear seals


I've seen that referenced for a while now-- what size PVC coupling is it for the rear seal?
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Old 07-08-2013, 08:10 AM   #12
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I've seen that referenced for a while now-- what size PVC coupling is it for the rear seal?
I think that is rear crank seal and what I see on the net it's 2 inch
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Old 07-08-2013, 08:13 AM   #13
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A Coke can is the perfect tool. Cut the end off, fit it onto the end of the crank and slide the seal over it

But if there's no sign of a leak I'd leave it alone.
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