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Old 07-07-2013, 05:26 PM   #16
farqhuar
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Originally Posted by rocker59 View Post
Auto rotors are constructed differently from those on motorcycles and have venting in the middle on the fronts of many cars. Basically, a double thickness rotor with cast-in ducting for cooling.

It's not unique to cars - double thickness rotors were standard on mid '80s Yamaha XJ900s/ FJ1100/1200s amongst others.
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Old 07-08-2013, 09:05 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Motomedic View Post

I'm sure someone will be along to tell me it wasn't the rotors, the blah blah blah was the reason my brakes were no longer affected by the heat. I for one firmly believe that the cooler the pads stay, the longer I can abuse the crap out of them before they fade. I also believe Wave rotors help keep things cool.
I've had a similar experience with supermoto brakes. Big drilled wave rotors simply work better and there's no argument possible to say that less rotating weight and more efficient heat dissipation doesn't make a difference. If it didn't then the manufacturers wouldn't waste engineering and development time by making them as such. We have what we have now, for products, because of the evolution of the motorcycle over time - and that evolution has proved that drilled wave rotors work better than the opposite.
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Old 07-08-2013, 09:53 AM   #18
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http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/ho...rcycle_brakes/

Slotted and wave rotors also give the pad more "leading edges" to bite into according to the Galfer rep in the interview. It's all about better feel.

Testing is pretty much unanimous: Galfer brakes work better. But, are they worth the coin for non-competition use? Only if you have a whole lot of disposable cash and don't need suspension upgrades.
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Old 07-08-2013, 10:10 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by farqhuar View Post
It's not unique to cars - double thickness rotors were standard on mid '80s Yamaha XJ900s/ FJ1100/1200s amongst others.

My 2012 Goldwing has a double thick rotor on the back.


I had a 2008 Honda Fit, couldn't keep stock rotors on the front...drum brake rear, all the braking was from the front...brand new car, pulse/pulse/pulse every time you push the pedal. Installed drilled and slotted rotors, problem never returned and the thing would actually stop.
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Old 07-08-2013, 10:43 AM   #20
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I think my buddy's GL1200 had ventilated discs all the way around, and I know my Magna 1100 had ventilated fronts.
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Old 07-08-2013, 01:38 PM   #21
Sp4Mike OP
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Originally Posted by señormoto View Post
... If it didn't then the manufacturers wouldn't waste engineering and development time by making them as such.

Use that logic to explain the beak please. But you had my until there.
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Old 07-08-2013, 09:58 PM   #22
AviatorTroy
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Weeeell, yer beak is supposed to act as a fender and mud deflector when things get so knarley that you have to remove the front fender. Like that is a reality for all us posers. Sort of like needing vented rotors. ;)
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Old 07-09-2013, 12:24 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by AviatorTroy View Post
Weeeell, yer beak is supposed to act as a fender and mud deflector when things get so knarley that you have to remove the front fender. Like that is a reality for all us posers. Sort of like needing vented rotors. ;)
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Old 07-10-2013, 12:30 PM   #24
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My understanding is that drilling and/or grooving the rotor also gives a place for gasses, that build up under the pads during braking, a place to vent off to. Whether that's true or not, I don't know.
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Old 07-10-2013, 02:25 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by WDG View Post
My understanding is that drilling and/or grooving the rotor also gives a place for gasses, that build up under the pads during braking, a place to vent off to. Whether that's true or not, I don't know.
Read the article.
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Old 07-12-2013, 08:26 AM   #26
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Read the article.
Yep. I should have done that, first.
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