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Old 07-09-2013, 09:56 AM   #16
larryboy
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I'm still sleepy and can't even remember where the shims are for the big bearing?

Cone bearing;

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Old 07-09-2013, 10:03 AM   #17
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ok, I think we are speaking about two different parts.

IM talking about the pinion, or the gear that attaches to the end of the driveshaft.

it has shims to adjust how much the gear part protrudes into the housing, and it directly changes its relationship ( engagement pattern) with the teeth on the larger gear.

pinion depth is like "mounting distance" in this photo

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Old 07-09-2013, 10:03 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
I'm still sleepy and can't even remember where the shims are for the big bearing?

Cone bearing;

They sit between the carrier and the bearing.


But now that I think about it, yes, I agree. The shims behind the cone bearing dictate the interface far more than the shims behind the big bearing. I had forgotten about those (probably because I didn't have to do anything to that bearing).
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Old 07-09-2013, 12:28 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by def View Post
During FD repair, the factory REProm provides details as to setting the following parameters;

1- Setting Crown Wheel Bearing preload.
2- Setting the gear tooth contact pattern.
3- Setting pinion to crown wheel backlash.
4- Shimming pinion to crown gear.

When replacing the crown wheel bearing, you need only be concerned about #1.

If you have removed and or replaced any gears, housings or other FD parts, you'll need to be concerned with #2, #3 and or #4.
OK..that makes sense..
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Old 07-09-2013, 01:24 PM   #20
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Speaking of the different bearings. When I called Argyl Motorsports in Edmonton for parts it took me quite a bit of explaining to describe the bearing I needed. I told him its the big bearing that goes on the crown gear, not the bearing on the pinion gear. (What beemer parts guy doesn't know what the big bearing is anyway?) He said he had 2 of the bearings in stock as well as seals to go with them. When I got there, 100 miles away i might add, he thought I meant the pinion bearing and didn't have the parts I needed. Now I wait a week to 10 days for it to come in and have to go 100 miles again to go get it. The only thing I don't like about that bike is the dealer network.
BTW, had a similar experience with Blackfoot Motorsports in Calgary. They had a part I needed and when I rode 100 miles to get it, it was broken. At least they mailed it to me. What a clusterf**k.
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Old 07-12-2013, 05:14 AM   #21
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Got my parts yesterday. When you hold the bearing in your hand, is it normal to be able to "wobble" the inner part of the bearing while holding the outer?
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Old 07-12-2013, 06:23 AM   #22
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If you don't get an answer soon I'll wander out to the shop and pull my spare FD outta the tool bag and give it a shake.
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Old 07-12-2013, 06:26 AM   #23
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Got my parts yesterday. When you hold the bearing in your hand, is it normal to be able to "wobble" the inner part of the bearing while holding the outer?
My new bearing also did that. Comparing the two, the new bearing had a lot less wobble than the old.
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Old 07-12-2013, 07:21 AM   #24
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Ok, my spare is still in the shrink wrap however there is 'wobble' when you shake it from the bearings in the cage etc. Stand down from red alert
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Old 07-12-2013, 08:40 AM   #25
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Thanks guys, crown gear is in the fridge, bearing on the bench waiting to go. When it first went, I took the old bearing to a bearing shop in town and he said there was a bearing of the exact same dimensions available for $50. I then talked to another bearing place and he ran all the markings and said it was a "loose?" bearing. I wonder if a bearing with no play or wobble would last longer. I may do an experiment with another FD I have. $50 is not so bad and I wouldn't have to drive 150 km one way to get it.
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Old 07-12-2013, 08:55 AM   #26
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After Market bearing

I've been in a bearing shop locally too and got the same info. As we all know BMW doesn't make their own bearings and this shop carried FAGG bearings too. I haven't read of anyone using one of the non-BMW bagged ones though but I'm sure JVB has info on that stuff.

Good luck!
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Old 07-12-2013, 12:20 PM   #27
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Anybody have torque specs on the allen bolts that hold the final drive together?
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Old 07-12-2013, 12:25 PM   #28
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Found it. 25.8 ft/lb
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Old 07-12-2013, 04:31 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Rockmuncher View Post
Got my parts yesterday. When you hold the bearing in your hand, is it normal to be able to "wobble" the inner part of the bearing while holding the outer?
Went through all this a year and a half ago, the new bearing felt decidedly loose, i was told on good authority that this is supposed to be be so due to the bearing part# ending in "C3", this denotes the clearance within the bearing. A bearing of the same dimensions is much cheaper to buy aftermarket, but will not be of the necessary "C3" clearance.
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Old 07-12-2013, 05:16 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by mouthfulloflake View Post
Ive often wondered if anyone alters the pinion depth when measuring and rebuilding a final drive.

Ill assume the bearing on it is shimmed for adjustment as well.
The manual describes the pinion setup very well. It is virtually never incorrect from the factory, and therefore does not need changing when replacing the crown gear bearings. Whenever I change a gearset, though, I have to reshim the pinion and I do check my work with blue. BMW's system for this is extremely reliable. Maybe once have I deviated from the 'ideal' shim.

There is no other adjustment for the pinion assembly. No preload or anything like that.
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