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Old 07-12-2013, 05:44 PM   #31
def
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Joined: Feb 2004
Location: The woods and mountains of Alabama
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Originally Posted by Rockmuncher View Post
Got my parts yesterday. When you hold the bearing in your hand, is it normal to be able to "wobble" the inner part of the bearing while holding the outer?
The bearing you are holding is a class 3 bearing. Class 3 is appropriate for the application we have here. A class 3 bearing has noticeable clearance. Be sure you're installing a bearing of known quality and not some Chinese knock-off.

There should be some identifiable manufacturing marks on the bearing. If not, I would satisfy myself that the bearing is high quality before I installed it in my BMW final drive.

As for the dealer not identifying the correct bearing for you, I would determine if the parts department folks can read and write.

Next time, I would identify the crown wheel bearing by BMW part number. Also, determine that the bearing you receive has the correct number of balls (BMW changed it from 19 to 17 balls some years ago).

BMW parts folks should know all this and be able to quote you chapter and verse when it comes to a part like this.
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Old 07-12-2013, 05:58 PM   #32
def
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Originally Posted by Ron from BC View Post
I've been in a bearing shop locally too and got the same info. As we all know BMW doesn't make their own bearings and this shop carried FAGG bearings too. I haven't read of anyone using one of the non-BMW bagged ones though but I'm sure JVB has info on that stuff.

Good luck!
The FAG bearing company makes bearings for a number of applications. Recently, there have been incidents of counterfeit bearings bearing the FAG name.

Be sure of the source of your bearing. Also, do not attempt to replace the crown wheel bearing (or any other bearing for that matter) with a different class bearing that has less clearance or you'll be sorry.

I would be very suspicious of a $50.00 bearing of the type and quality needed for the BMW final drive.

Remember, there are dissimilar metals used in our FDs that have different Cs of thermal expansion. If you mess with the bearing selection for this application, you had better be a highly skilled mechanical engineer familiar with gear systems, metallurgy and other aspects of gear transmission systems design.

Do you have any idea what the Klingelnberg-Palloid spiral bevel gear pattern is and how it transfers forces?

I didn't think so.
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Old 07-12-2013, 06:28 PM   #33
Ron from BC
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Huh....you asking me about the long german word? I didn't buy a knock off bearing. My spare is OEM.. What's your point?
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Old 07-12-2013, 08:18 PM   #34
def
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Originally Posted by Ron from BC View Post
Huh....you asking me about the long german word? I didn't buy a knock off bearing. My spare is OEM.. What's your point?
Sorry Ron, I should have attached my comments to Rockmuncher's post....but, you Canadian fellas all look the same to me.........but, yer women are pretty.
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Old 07-12-2013, 09:00 PM   #35
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My parts are OEM too. Just need to plan a little better next time and order parts by number. Anyway, here's some pics of the operation.

Bad FD, BAD BAD BAD!


Pull the 8 bolts and washers with a 7mm allen


Light rapping with a rubber mallet gets the 2 halves apart


Heated the bearing with a heat gun. Not sure if this is necessary, but I thought it was a good idea and would make the pullers work easier.


3 Jaw puller and an impact wrench.


Clean off the crown gear with a scrubby pad and some solvent. Don't miss where the seal goes.


Throw that baby in the fridge for an hour.
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Old 07-12-2013, 09:27 PM   #36
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Nice new bearing. 19 balls, 16 more than me.


Propped up on some sockets and some heat.


Nice cold crown gear and warm bearing just dropped right on.


Put the Fd back together WITHOUT ANY SHIMS to check proper preload. This is the setup I used to measure it.

That's 2 lug bolts with spacers holding a piece of aluminum down for a nice spot to measure on. The gauge and arm are bolted to the brake caliper mount.

Then my tire irons under the aluminum piece to lift the crown gear up and get a measurement. I did this 4 or 5 times to get an accurate repeating reading.


I won't bore you with the calculations, but I added my 0.1" from the gauge to the preload of .05 to .1 mm (yes I'm using inches and mm). I came up with the shim that was in the drive was right and put it back in.


When you get to this stage, be very exact with how the halves go together or your ABS sensor won't go through. Yes I had to loosen it and give it a tap or 2 when it was on the bike. I suggest testing it before you torque it up. 25.8 ft/lb on the 8 allen bolts.


This is a picture of me about to put the drive shaft back together with tape still on the pivot bearing races and no rubber gator. Der

Yes, I did that.

Once it's put together right, you torque this pin to 150 NM


Inner pin goes to 10-12 NM according to some guy on youtube. I think BMW says 8NM


Then the lock nut goes to 105 NM. There is a tool to hold the pin with an allen wrench while you torque the lock nut. I didn't have one, so I held the pin and did a rough torque up on the lock nut.
BTW, I've been going without locktight on those pins for a couple of years, no problem.

Then torque the arm to 45 NM
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Old 07-12-2013, 09:49 PM   #37
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Thumb

Finish up by installing the brake caliper. Torque to 30 ftlb. Install the ABS sensor and torque to 8 NM. Fill the fd with oil and put the wheel on. Ride it like you stole it.
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Old 07-12-2013, 11:25 PM   #38
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We have found another problem that sometimes occurs in the final drives. The pinion needle bearing inner race will sometimes start creeping off. This can cause damage to the housing and/or the speedometer ring.

This seems to be caused by the over shimming and load combined to cause a slight deflection in the tip of the pinion and the bearing race walking off. Some of these are a tight interference fit, some are almost a slip fit. We have been re-seating these and using bearing locker (green Loctite if I remember right) if needed.

Here is a link to one of the discussions on BMWLT.

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64658
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Old 07-13-2013, 04:38 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by Centaurious View Post
We have found another problem that sometimes occurs in the final drives. The pinion needle bearing inner race will sometimes start creeping off. This can cause damage to the housing and/or the speedometer ring.

This seems to be caused by the over shimming and load combined to cause a slight deflection in the tip of the pinion and the bearing race walking off. Some of these are a tight interference fit, some are almost a slip fit. We have been re-seating these and using bearing locker (green Loctite if I remember right) if needed.

Here is a link to one of the discussions on BMWLT.

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64658
Your timing is off by half a day. I'll check again in 40,000 miles.
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Old 07-13-2013, 05:20 AM   #40
Ron from BC
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Great job and thanks for taking the time to immortalize it with pics!
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